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Sticky Bolt

I use a collet die and the cases were annealed 2 reloads ago. A bullet will drop into a fired case. A reload goes into the chamber with no resistance. I will use a Redding body die when they start to go in harder.

Going to run them into a 444 marlin die, closest thing I have to a small base die, and then try Fred's suggestion ( .002 between bolt handle and rear baffle). Load is shooting 3/4 inch at 200 yards, so I hate to mess with it. Primers: are CCI BR 4 softer/harder than CCI 400's?

Watched the Wheeler video and now see how and what to measure.
 
His problem doesn’t sound like a clicker problem to me. Well none of my clickers ever had any problem needing the bolt to be bumped back. Sounds like a primary extraction problem which some savages have. Thin shim added to the baffle between it and the action should work wonders
 
Check the distance between the rear bolt baffle and the rear action face, you can use feeler gauges, if you can fit more than .020" in the gap, the actual bolt body needs to be cut at the back. Any gunsmith or person that can run an end mill correctly, can do this. You typically have to remove .010-.020" to tighten it back up. This is how you adjust the primary extraction on a Savage. If you want to test it, before doing it, next time you shoot, before you open the bolt, stick an old credit card or something similar, possibly even a dime, if the gap is big enough, between the rear of the action and the baffle, then lift the bolt. If it lifts and pops the case out, as it should. Now you know what to do.
 

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