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Stick with 6mmbr or go with 6.5-284?

walker2713

My Boy Hap....
Gold $$ Contributor
This year I'm going to participate in our clubs 600yd competitions.....and am going to get a Savage Model 12 rifle.

I'd appreciate some input on whether I should go with the 6mmbr or consider the 6.5-284? If so, why"

Also, starting out, will I be as well off with a Weaver or Sightron 36X in the $400 range, or should I bite the bullet for a Nightforce?

Many thanks.....

George
 
Go with the 6 BR. I started with a 6.5x284 12F and replaced the barrel with a 6BR that I got used. Then I started winning.
 
Go with 6br. Great round for 600. If you are going to use the gun just for 600 I would say go with t36. Great scope for the money. On the other hand, I am switching from Weaver to Nightforce because of the turret and retical. But like I said, if I was going to shoot 600 only, which I have for the last few years, I would go with Weaver. BUT... buy the best glass you can afford. If you get a Nightforce you wont have to upgrade later.
 
George,

6BR over 6.5 284 any day. Barrel life sucks with the 6.5 x 284. Have you looked at the 6BRX or 6 Dasher?

Mark Schronce
 
Great answer Josh11. George, consider a .308 and shoot F/TR to start. You can always change barrels and move to F open. Just a thought. You just can't go wrong with a nightforce. IMHO
 
If u are going to shoot f open then take it serious the 6br is a great round but will give u trouble on a windy day go with what wins! a hotter 6 is a do all at 600 or go to ftr u want to give yourself a chance to win u must even the playing field for yourself.
 
Thanks for the feedback, guys...very helpful.

I was thinking 6br only because I want to start with a factory rifle, and I can always re-barrel later. I don't think anyone makes a 6brx or 6 dasher on a "factory" platform....or do they?

I'm going to have to investigate more about the diff between F and F/tr? F is prone, but what else differentiates it from shooting 600 from a bench??

You can tell I'm new to this....though not new to rifles and handloading.....

George
 
Get yourself a good 308 and harris s bipod and have at it im glad that ur asking for advice it shows that u will one to recone with in ftr soon.
 
Pardon my spelling on last message , u will find that wind reading skills are the definition of a shooter i would like to recommend reading the wind book by miller & cunningham and read everything written by a master of the sport.
 
walker2713 said:
Thanks for the feedback, guys...very helpful.

I was thinking 6br only because I want to start with a factory rifle, and I can always re-barrel later. I don't think anyone makes a 6brx or 6 dasher on a "factory" platform....or do they?

I'm going to have to investigate more about the diff between F and F/tr? F is prone, but what else differentiates it from shooting 600 from a bench??

You can tell I'm new to this....though not new to rifles and handloading.....

George

The Savage 12s in 6BR are quite good as are their F/TR 12s in .308 and .223.

You're correct, the Dasher and BRX are not factory-available.

F/TR is one of the two classes which allows only rifles chambered in .223 or .308. F-Open is the other class, with no caliber restrictions. Both are shot prone. TR uses bipods up front while Open can use mechanical front rests. Both use rear bags.
 
Since the .308 came up, what about getting a heavy rifle...probably a Savage...in that caliber to start out with? I like the idea of a .30 cal bullet......

Would that be too much of a disadvantage when competing at the 600 yard level?

George
 
George,
A shooting partner has 3 Savage model 12s in .223, .308 and 6BR. They are all very competitive in F-Class. With the 30" barrels they get good velocity and the stocks are made for rests/bags.

I would think the .308 at 600yds would be fine. The National F/TR teram shoots .308s at 1K quite well! Many local shooters use a .308 such as these to begn in F-Class, some will later go to a custom build for Open while others rebarrel the .308 and continue in TR.

Both classes are a TON of fun and, in my opinion, you'll learn more in a couple days of mid or long range matches than you would in a year of range practice by yourself.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with a Savage. If you choose to go the F/TR route, by a good bi-pod such as a Sinclare or a Center Shot. It will save you money in the long run. The great thing about F/TR is you'll be shooting against .308's and .223's. The playing field is somewhat leveled so to speak.

My F/TR rig is a Savage Model 12 F/TR in .308, Shilen barrel, NF 12x42 BR scope and Center Shot Bi-pod. The action has been bedded by a really good gunsmith, still has the accu-trigger and it shoots better than I do on most days. I shoot both Mid-range and Long range with it.

Whatever you choose, it's great to have another shooter in the ranks. Ask questions. You'll be amazed how fellow competitors will bend over backward to help you get started. The best part about shooting is the people you are around.
 
I had a savage 6br and it shot a consistent 3 in groups at 600. And that was bone stock. I built a bat f class gun in 6brx. If you did go with a 6br, you could always punch it out to a 6brx or dasher.
 
Go 6BR. If you reload, this is a forgiving cartridge and can be made to be arguably the most accurate cartrige going. The 6.5 Norma is good for 1000 rounds or less (I had one gack at 700) and you are always chasing the lands when reloading. I have also found it to be a finicky cartridge to get right. 6BR is dead simple 30 grains of varget and a 105 Berger hunting VLD .010 into the lands. If you aren't shooting bug holes, throw the gun away. :)

308's use more powder and their bullets cost more. They recoil far more than a 6BR, and thus when learning to be an accurate shooter, this can be a serious detractor.

In FTR, the difference is the shooter. In F-Open, the difference is the shooter.

I shoot the 6BR to a mile with extreme accuracy, and can make 1000 yard gopher kills with relative ease when conditions are right.

The Savage guns need only a good scope and a tuned load. I have been in several competitions where these guns have kept up with the pack, so they work.

Jump in, get shooting and you will be able to answer most of your own questions in no time at all.
 
Again, thanks for the feedback. I ordered a Savage F Class in 6mmbr, and it's on its way to my FFL.

Now for the scope: I'm going to go with a 10-42 Nightforce.....which reticle shouild I order?

Also, I'm sure there are good sources out there....I deal with Midway and Sinclair a good deal, but would welcome further input.

George
 
you scope choice is a good one... for the range your wanting to shoot, variable power is ideal. Not taking anything away from the nightforce line, but you might consider a Sightron SIII 8-32x56 or 10-50x60 to keep the cost down. (if that's a factor for you)

Are you looking at the Nightforce BR model or an NXS?

As far as the reticle... everyone seems to prefer different things for different reasons. If you're primarily shooting at known distance, there's no need to get fancy. I fine cross-hair will do just fine. I have a CH1 on my 1k BR rifle, and love it for it's purpose. However, I do like the MOA reticles for the purpose of holding-off for wind changes in mid string. (MIL reticles do the same thing, but I'm an MOA guy :))
 
If you go with NF then the double dot is what most bench guys go with for gauging a hold over the R1 is ideal. I use the DD for round targets because you will naturally center the dot.
 
My BR scope is a NP2-DD. I shoot this in matches and the reticle just seems to fit what I use it for. I have an NSX 8-32 on a 6br (savage long range) that is my prairie dog rifle that is a NP-R2. The dot seems to work better for me. I have heard other shooters say they think the BR scope has a sharper image, but I have compared these 2 scopes side by side and I honestly can't say one is better than the other.

As far as where to buy, they are all priced about the same or so I have found.

I also own a Sightron SIII 8-32. The first one I had was sent back to them twice because the anodizing was flaking on the inside of the scope. They did replace it finally, the 2nd time I sent it back, and did pay for my shipping expenses. it's an OK scope but not a NightForce.
 

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