Steps in working up a load.
- Thread starter gtl1946
- Start date
1st is figuring what (o.a. l.) You need in your gun. Some are limited by magazine length. Some are limited by freebore. Many of my loads with light bullet's are not limited by either. So i just load them out as far as practical, this is often seating them only .150"-.200" into the case. In any event you want to load them out as far as possible without jamming into rifling. proper neck tension- .003" grip. Next is picking powder and amount. I always start just below max and just load 3 of each up to or slightly over max. Small cases-223, i go in 1/2 grain increments. Big cases like 308, i go 1 grain increments. Example 3@44,3@45,3@46,3@47. If that powder isn't impressive i move on to the next powder. One powder will shine brightly over the others. Sometimes you get lucky and hit it on the 1st or 2nd powder.
Last edited:
do some searches
look for how to find the lands, max cartridge length
single shot start at the lands, no jam, no jump
mag fed, start and max that FEEDS from the mag.
start with a powder with a good record for your cartridge.
start with 10-20 single rounds in .2 gr steps
( alternative is 1/100 of case volume, go to max listed for bullet and cartridge. you may not shoot max, but shoot till pressure signs)
at 200 or better 300, zero the gun, load maybe 5 from the middle of your string load to do this.
shoot singles over a chrono if you have one, log each shot on a duplicate target at the bench.
when you get this far come back with your data and we will move on.
( this is a LADDER as designed by chriegton Audette)
look for how to find the lands, max cartridge length
single shot start at the lands, no jam, no jump
mag fed, start and max that FEEDS from the mag.
start with a powder with a good record for your cartridge.
start with 10-20 single rounds in .2 gr steps
( alternative is 1/100 of case volume, go to max listed for bullet and cartridge. you may not shoot max, but shoot till pressure signs)
at 200 or better 300, zero the gun, load maybe 5 from the middle of your string load to do this.
shoot singles over a chrono if you have one, log each shot on a duplicate target at the bench.
when you get this far come back with your data and we will move on.
( this is a LADDER as designed by chriegton Audette)
I may do things a bit different. First from research find a suitable powder. Second, find choose a starting load. The since you already have bullets, use the bullet manufacturer's suggested OAL. I will work up powder charges until I get a good load, then may change the primer, and/or try a different bullet, again with the manufacturer's OAL. "Chasing the Lands" is the last item on my work up list as for me, it has the least effect on accuracy over manufacturer's recommendations. I like reloading so a bit of extra loads tested just add to the fun and I'm in no hurry to find "The Load". I have used this method for my 5 rifles and, FWIW, my Ruger 308, using once fired F/L sized LC brass with Hornady 155 gr HPBT bullets loaded to Hornady specs., over a med-low charge of IMR 4895 gives me consistent 7/8"-1" groups (and I ain't the world's best marksman either!)
Advice that is going to ruin your barrel from (over testing )is bad advice. Advice that makes you waste components is also bad advice. You want accuracy , with the least cost / hassle I'm sure. Quick /easy accuracy , Right ? I'm sure I'm right ?
Last edited:
It varies. Whatever works for you.
Me if it is a target rifle i use my hornady overall length gauge with the chosen bullet to find the lands.
Pick a powder charge about 1 gr below max and charge cases in 3 tenths increments up to about 2 tenths over max.
Seat bullets for about a ten thousands jam. Shoot them looking for pressure signs and good groups. Stop if you get a sticky bolt or other pressure signs. I usually load 5 of each powder charge but since you are just really looking for max 3 would work.
Find max and back off a touch and then do seating depth test. Since it is a target rifle you probably will find your.best seating depth close.to the lands i would start backing off in .005 increments from the jam if jammed wasn't what you were looking for.
Once.you find the best seating depth fine tune powder charge
After that you can experiment with all kinds of things like primers and neck tension and concentricity and annealing and a myriad of things down the rabbit hole.
Never jam bullet's, bad advice. Never start 1 grain under max.
Once I've decided on case an bullet, I go to QuickLoad to find a powder that'll be at about 100% of case capacity AND where Quickload's barrel time calculation is close to the same as the OBT (Optimal Barrel Time) for a node with the BTO out close to the lands. Then based on that powder charge weight shown, I'll use it as the middle and load out on both sides of it in .2 gr increments. Then I shoot them as an OCW ( Optimal Charge Weight) test. Just this week in I did this to find a good load for Berger's 185 Jugs out of my .308 (got a bunch of them from the 50% off sale that was posted on this site). Now that I've done the OCW test, I'm going to confirm the loads and find the true velocity, then work on seating depth as needs be.
PS: I see in my pic of QuickLoad it doesn't have the correct bullet selected to match what I did . . . but you should get the idea anyway as there's no difference in the barrel time.
Last edited:
It's been pretty well covered above, but I would add that you fireform your brass prior to doing any serious load development. Also, your barrel is going to speed up after 50-100 round count. I don't like to count on new brass or new barrel as velocity will be changing somewhat.
I do pressure testing and rough seating depth tests, maybe even testing pressure with various powder. Then, when my components settle down, I start working on load work up. JMO
I do pressure testing and rough seating depth tests, maybe even testing pressure with various powder. Then, when my components settle down, I start working on load work up. JMO
Why?
Been doing it for years. Works good for me
Might ask these guys too!
https://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/6mmbr/
Step 1: Select a powder suitable for the caliber you're loading - for me this is the easiest part - Lyman, Sierra and Nosler manuals list the most accurate powder they tested - a good place to start.
Step 2: Select a primer - I like Federal primers but the others are good too, pick one an stay with it until all else fails to produce the group you want.
Step 3: Select a bullet - this is the tough one - after many years of reloading I've learn that this has the most affect on group size - a good place to start is to match the bullet with the twist rate of your rifle - I'd start with Sierra or Nosler brand but many others work just as well. Also the bullet needs to match the purpose - hunting, competition, etc.
Step 4: Select a conservative powder charge and slowly work your way up. Many times you'll find that the mid range charge is the most accurate especially with the faster stick powders. Learn and observe pressure signs.
Step 5: Select a seating depth that is compatible with the magazine and provides enough bullet depth in the case to give adequate bullet tension - good rule of thumb is one bullet diameter. I start at .020" off the lands provided the above two criteria is met. I never load closer than .010" so as to not have bullet stick in the lands when you extract a live round or create a high pressure situation. You may find that some rifles shoot better with more jump - I have several that behave this way.
As someone else said - try to avoid over testing unless this is what you like to do. You don't want to wear out an overbore cartridge designed for hunting like the 22 250 with over testing. How tight of group do you need? For varmint hunting a 0.5 plus or minus in a reasonable goal, for a big game rifle, 1 1/2 moa is sufficient. I'll defer to the competition shooters for their take on accuracy requirements
Step 2: Select a primer - I like Federal primers but the others are good too, pick one an stay with it until all else fails to produce the group you want.
Step 3: Select a bullet - this is the tough one - after many years of reloading I've learn that this has the most affect on group size - a good place to start is to match the bullet with the twist rate of your rifle - I'd start with Sierra or Nosler brand but many others work just as well. Also the bullet needs to match the purpose - hunting, competition, etc.
Step 4: Select a conservative powder charge and slowly work your way up. Many times you'll find that the mid range charge is the most accurate especially with the faster stick powders. Learn and observe pressure signs.
Step 5: Select a seating depth that is compatible with the magazine and provides enough bullet depth in the case to give adequate bullet tension - good rule of thumb is one bullet diameter. I start at .020" off the lands provided the above two criteria is met. I never load closer than .010" so as to not have bullet stick in the lands when you extract a live round or create a high pressure situation. You may find that some rifles shoot better with more jump - I have several that behave this way.
As someone else said - try to avoid over testing unless this is what you like to do. You don't want to wear out an overbore cartridge designed for hunting like the 22 250 with over testing. How tight of group do you need? For varmint hunting a 0.5 plus or minus in a reasonable goal, for a big game rifle, 1 1/2 moa is sufficient. I'll defer to the competition shooters for their take on accuracy requirements
He is a new reloader trying to learn basics and trying to get easy accuracy quickly. I have seen many times when powder spills all over because a new reloader tried opening the action, the bullet stuck in rifling and powder everywhere.
Raythemanroe
Bullet Whisperer
My first step if it's a complete unknown is I find what is known to work. Get a general area to start my load and then do a ladder to see what my rifle wants. Usually start in and work my way out. Initial testing is just to get in the ballpark of a node and go back and do a fine ladder test. Take notes, measurements and record velocity.
Ray
Ray
Why all the 5 shot groups hunting a load? Lots of wasted barrel life. If 2 shots aren't pretty much 1 hole a third shot won't make it tighter. I was talked into the 2 shot method about 5 years ago by a friend who is a quality engineer. I told him he was nuts. He is not a shooter. However I know he is very smart. So, I started doing it. He was right. Try it. I shoot lots of matches I do pretty well, I seldom sense there are better tuned guns than mine. Try it. My goal working a load is consistant 3 shot groups in the zeros and low ones. I f your goals are not that small, what do you have to loose ? You have barrel and bullets to save. If you just like to see holes in paper, don't bother.
Baka
Silver $$ Contributor
What if that’s where it’s most accurate? I’m talking about the jamming.
Jamming is really not good for beginners at all. I have reloaded for over 30 years and it is not necessary. It would only be advised if competing in a championship. Or if a person has a lot of experience. Also when a novice tries to unload a round the round becomes disassembled- bullet stuck, powder all over, mess. Even without jamming it is very possible to get tiny tiny groups -.075" Another thing i see is people trying to beat a dead horse with powder choice. They keep trying to make a powder work instead of just moving on to the next powder like they should. It is always the powder type that makes or doesn't make accuracy. One powder will shine brightly over all the other powders.
Last edited:
Not quite sure what to say, just sitting here shaking my head.I started shooting competitive benchrest over 20 yrs ago. Never jumped a bullet until I bought a 6PPV from Kelblys 4 years ago and it liked to be jumped. Now, maybe some of those 30 or so barrels over the years could have been shot jumping but I always found a sweet spot very close to a square mark. To deem a new shooter incapable of safely handling his rifle for no reason requires more ego than I have. If a new shooter is unsafe he should be instructed, taught, or if he should be removed from the line.
Might need a bit more neck tension’
I don’t read the OP as a new reloader , he’s been a member since 2010..
I stand corrected. Thanks. I just assumed because he was asking questions. Sorry.
I agree with that 100%
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.