Steal (un-coated) cleaning rods

[Mulligan]

I use the Tipton rods, won't use anything else unless I have to. I have a few steel rods, just don't care for them.

For the OP - please don't steal uncoated cleaning rods...they're not that expensive.

That's funny!

 

[LHSmith]

Graphite is carbon, too. I also use an uncoated rod and wipe with a rag. But, I suspect there are no diamonds forming in barrel throats.

My point being carbon residue from combustion of smokeless powder gets harder to remove if left untreated. The carbon ring that has an affinity to form at the chambers neck/leade junction is certainly a very hard mass requiring mechanical removal once formed.
True carbon on the case necks can be much like graphite if removed immediately after firing (it comes off with just wiping with your finger tips), but allowing the carbon to remain on the necks over longer periods it becomes more difficult to remove.

 

[Steve Blair]

My point being carbon residue from combustion of smokeless powder gets harder to remove if left untreated. The carbon ring that has an affinity to form at the chambers neck/leade junction is certainly a very hard mass requiring mechanical removal once formed.
True carbon on the case necks can be much like graphite if removed immediately after firing (it comes off with just wiping with your finger tips), but allowing the carbon to remain on the necks over longer periods it becomes more difficult to remove.

It's a relief to know my cleaning rods are not subject to diamond abrasion.

Rifle barrel residue primarily comprises complex hydrocarbons and (mostly) not carbon in any pure form. I agree that allowing these compounds to cool and harden makes them much tougher to remove. There is a minority portion of unburned propellant, notably nitrocellulose, that is difficult to remove when hard. The best approaches I've found are to clean the barrel when warm or warm the bore before cleaning with steam. Either approach greatly reduces cleaning effort.

 

[AckleymanII]

During the P. dog wars from '79-93, I noticed that I had lapped some throats egg shaped using std bore guides. During this time, I was using Dewey and Parker Hale cleaning rods. I went to a Neil Jones rod guide for Dewey's, that non sense stopped.

I prefer a polished steel rod over coated, this decision is of late. Coefficient of friction is higher with plastic on steel vs steel on steel.

We shot 24,000-26,000 rounds of center Fire a year, just my opinion doing lots of cleaning with JB and various other abrasive solvents that the bore guide is more important than the rod choice(given the high quality of the rods made today). Good bearings in the handle are a must.

If you don't use a rod guide that has a bushing on the rod that fits in the bore guide, I think that you are making a BIG mistake!
Neil Jones and Lucas bore guides have this bushing that fits on the rod, and both will make an insert for the dia of your rod.