Stainless Tumbling Media

[Quinc]

Made this post a couple years back on another forum. I have cleaned 1000's of peices of brass since then with no issues. I also don't weigh anything out anymore and just fill her up.

After reloading 200rds of .45acp I realized I needed a better method then:

Tumbling with walnut
Wiping down each piece of brass
cleaning primer pocket
cleaning inside of brass with brush

Then beginning the reloading process.

So after a bunch of research Stainless steel is a no brainer. However, it is EXPENSIVE!


So to get into it as cheaply as possible:
print out the 20% off coupon
http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=987642&d=1328131775


Go buy the dual 3lb tumbler for 49.99 after coupon + 9.99 2 year replacement plan comes out to 54$

http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html


Make sure and oil it all the time as they go bad quick if you don't. Also might have to buy a hoover vacuum belt for it from wal-mart.


Next call http://www.pelletsllc.com/ and tell them you want steel media for brass. 5lbs for 40$ shipped. You only need 2#'s so you can split this with a friend and save 20$.

The brass was fairly clean to begin with and I will post up some new pics when I do my dirtier .223 brass.

1lb SS
1lb brass
1lb water
1 squirt of dish soap per tumbler
EDIT: Lemon Shine makes a huge difference in keeping the brass shinny after it drys.

Before:

After 1hr:

 

[Quinc]

The cons of stainless media tumbling. So it is a good idea to size with the decapping pin still in.

 

[snakepit]

I have used a Thumler's Tumbler with the Stainless Steel Media for several years with no problems and good results. Several people have complained about the wing nuts that hold the lid on. You can order a set of 6 Fluted Drum Knobs from STM for $5.95 and $1.25 1st class postage that will replace the wing nuts.

www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com

 

[chkunz]

I have used a Thumler's Tumbler with the Stainless Steel Media for several years with no problems and good results. Several people have complained about the wing nuts that hold the lid on. You can order a set of 6 Fluted Drum Knobs from STM for $5.95 and $1.25 1st class postage that will replace the wing nuts.

www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com

Thanks for the tip, I just placed an order for the drum knobs.

 

[CatShooter]

The cons of stainless media tumbling. So it is a good idea to size with the decapping pin still in.

The origiianl release of pins were around 0.039" to 0.041" - just the exact size to double up and jam a flash hole (0.082")

There are new pins available from STM and others that are 0.047", and they will not jam flash holes.

 

[Quinc]

The cons of stainless media tumbling. So it is a good idea to size with the decapping pin still in.

The origiianl release of pins were around 0.039" to 0.041" - just the exact size to double up and jam a flash hole (0.082")

There are new pins available from STM and others that are 0.047", and they will not jam flash holes.

Good to know! I have also had them get stuck inside the .223 cases like this "|_"

 

[people]

Also if you debur your flash holes it helps pins not sticking.

 

[trgtsnpr]

after a while the stainless pins have to where on the brass ? so isnt the ultrasonic cleaner a better way to go i have to buy a new tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner after reading all these im still tore on which way to go whats the pros and cons of each thanks bill

 

[1066]

I've been using the wet SS media method for around 5 years now and wouldn't do it any other way.

I used dry media with vibratory and rotary tumblers for 30 years then had a brief fling with Ultrasonic.

Here's how I do my brass:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcyAkj-LzA8

 

[Joe R]

The only people that don't use a tumbler, stainless steel pins, 3/4 tbs of dawn an 1/4 tsp of lemi shine are people that haven't tried it. Once you try it you'll never go back to the old way.

trgtsnpr

after a while the stainless pins have to where on the brass ? so isnt the ultrasonic cleaner a better way to go i have to buy a new tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner after reading all these im still tore on which way to go whats the pros and cons of each thanks bill

Come on, get real. Firing your reloads is going to wear out your brass long before the pins do anything to your brass.

 

[71firebird400]

Reports of the bullet bonding to the case have been mentioned more than once on this site when the cases were tumbled in SS; the thought process is that this doesn't happen with other forms of tumbling due to the carbon that coats the interior of the case.

Any thoughts?

 

[chkunz]

Reports of the bullet bonding to the case have been mentioned more than once on this site when the cases were tumbled in SS; the thought process is that this doesn't happen with other forms of tumbling due to the carbon that coats the interior of the case.

Any thoughts?

One observation, newly manufactured ammunition does not have "carbon that coats the interior of the case". It could be that the inside of the necks are coated with something else if this is thought to be a problem. I have not pulled any bullets from commercially loaded ammo to know but I have "Mexican Matched" M118 military ammo and noticed that the inside of the necks have a black coating Hand loaded ammo in new cases does not have "carbon that coats the interior of the case". This does not answer your question but may be relevant. I have read references where it was thought that the bullet jackets bond to the case necks over time but do not remember the specifics. If there is a physical change between the bullet and case neck over time it could undo some of the consistency some folks are working hard to obtain with annealing and bullet seating force measurement. This would take some significant testing to determine if this exists and if it does what is it worth on the target.

 

[jimcasey01]

I have found that graphite in the case necks definitely helps consistency, both seating pressure and on target. As to whether this would delay or stop "bonding" I can not say with certainty, but I would suspect so. It is basically the same as the carbon from a fired round.

 

[michaelnel]

I have found increased consistency in seating since I started using the Imperial dry neck lube (which is just graphite).

 

[dixieppc]

Same as the last two messages. I use the K&M force measurement attachment to my arbor press to indicate bullet seating pressures.

Since starting to use the Imperial dry neck lube, I have noticed a big difference (on the dial indicator) in the consistency of force needed to seat bullets.

Before using the Imperial dry neck lube, I had wider bullet seating force variances even with brass of the same lot, same amount of firings since new & since annealing and meticulous new brass prep and pre-loading brass prep.

Merry Christmas And Happy New Year to All.......

 

[michaelnel]

Yep. My theory is if they go in more consistently, they'll come out the same way.

 

[snakepit]

Since starting to use the Imperial dry neck lube, I have noticed a big difference (on the dial indicator) in the consistency of force needed to seat bullets.

I have found increased consistency in seating since I started using the Imperial dry neck lube (which is just graphite).

Do you dip the neck into the Imperial Dry Neck Lube or dip the base of the bullet into the lube prior to seating the bullet?

 

[michaelnel]

I use the media applicator, which is a little jar full of tiny steel balls and graphite powder. Just before I charge the cases I up-end them one by one and stuff the necks into the applicator jar, then into the loading tray. I usually stick them into the jar twice, then into the tray.

The whole procedure means you end up with some pretty black fingers and some of your balls on the table, but it's worth it for the result.

 

[Joe R]

71firebird400 said:

Reports of the bullet bonding to the case have been mentioned more than once on this site when the cases were tumbled in SS; the thought process is that this doesn't happen with other forms of tumbling due to the carbon that coats the interior of the case.

Any thoughts?

If you:
1. deprime
2. tumble
3. anneal

You will notice that the bullet requires more force to seat. And its performance on target will deteriorate. Some guys resort to putting graphite for their necks, others dip the bottom of their bullets in various kinds of lubricants to mitigate this grabby effect. I theorize that the heat of the annealing process raises the grain of the brass making it grabby/rough.

However if you:
1. deprime
2. anneal
3. tumble

The tumbling process with the ss pins will clean and polish your brass inside (including the necks) and out. Making the whole seating process smooth as silk. Of course you don't have to take my word for it. Try it both ways and see.

Kindest regards,

Joe

 

[dixieppc]

Since starting to use the Imperial dry neck lube, I have noticed a big difference (on the dial indicator) in the consistency of force needed to seat bullets.

I have found increased consistency in seating since I started using the Imperial dry neck lube (which is just graphite).

Do you dip the neck into the Imperial Dry Neck Lube or dip the base of the bullet into the lube prior to seating the bullet?

I thought of trying it both ways until I read a thread that was covering this same topic where everyone had concluded that dipping the necks was best, not the bullet. So, right after priming, I dip the necks and then wipe the excess off the outside of the case, then I throw my powder.

Some people were wondering if throwing the powder would remove the graphite from the inside of the neck. I swabbed the insides of a dipped neck with a Q-Tip after throwing a powder charge and found that the graphite was still there.

Regards.....