Stacking elevation on Action and Rings

[ErikET]

Curious if its recommended if the action has a 20 MOA integral rail, to have rings or a mount with an additional increase in elevation 10,20,30 MOA.
Looking at a Leupold MK5, Burris XTR 3 or Gen 2-3 Razor.
Should I stay with just the elevation gained from the integral, or add more in the 1piece mount if the optic itself allows? Can adding too much impact image quality? What do folks most often do?

Mostly doing PRS from 600-1000yds

 

[NZ_Fclass]

20 MoA should get any rifle out to 1000 yds without any further elevation needed, other than scope adjustment, including a 223.

 

[SKWERLZ]

20 moa is fine for 1000

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

On my F-TR rifle I have an integrated 20MOA rail and I use Burris XTR rings with inserts on top of that. I shoot 1000 yard competitions almost exclusively and at the prices I pay for my riflescopes, I want to extract the best possible IQ from them and that's when the rifle has little to no adjustment from the mechanical zero; what some call the sweet spot.

So, I use the XTR rings to get the riflescope as near zero at 1000 yards without using the internal adjustments. Once I'm there, I finalize with the internal adjustments, and I get the best possible IQ at my standard distance. The few times I shoot a 600-yard match, I drop down the require 18-some MOA, shoot the match and crank it back to 1000 yard zero.

For load development and other such activities, I use a tall target, aim at the bottom and the shots print 28-30 inches above depending on load and bullet.

With the eye-watering prices these days, I insist on the best IQ from my riflescopes. If I regularly shoot 600 and 1000, I would pick a zero with the XTR rings maybe 10 MOA lower than what I have now, so as to be as close to mechanical zero as possible for both 600 and 1000.

I would think that 20MOA should be quite sufficient for PRS at 600-1000 yards, and I'm guessing it's not a .308 caliber either.

 

[ErikET]

Thank you so much for the replies, yeah running 6 Creedmoor and 6.5 for fun. Looks like I'll pick up a set of rings and try to keep it as close to Mechanical Zero as I can

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Interesting. We tend to shoot 5/600 or 8/9/1000, so I set zero on my FTR for 500. I don't see any reason to do the 100yd zero thing, I can always lower the scope one revolution and be close enough for load testing when needed. I also use an XTR scope, away for checking at the moment. Hoping to check out the XTR- 3 shortly.

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

Thank you so much for the replies, yeah running 6 Creedmoor and 6.5 for fun. Looks like I'll pick up a set of rings and try to keep it as close to Mechanical Zero as I can

WWT. I explained my (very) specific situation and the reason why it is sometimes desirable to, as you say, stack on elevation. I shoot F-Class LR almost exclusively, with the very occasional forays at 600 yards. My rifle is all geared up for that one distance, 1000 yards. Also, and not to be a snob about it, but when you pay over $3000 for a March 10-60X56 HM and then replace it with a Majesta @ $4,500, you want to enjoy the breathtaking view so as to soften the blow to your wallet. It's not that the view deteriorates appreciably when you move away from the sweet spot, but since I only really do just the one distance, I maximize my equipment.

If I was doing ICFRA-style shooting like @NZ_Fclass , I would be happy with a 20MOA ramp and just dial down for the 5-600 and up for the 8/9/10 part. It's not really going to be noticeable.

For the PRS game with a 6 Crudmore or 6.5, you will be well served with a 20MOA rail and nothing more.

Another reason I like the Burris XTR signature rings is that they do not scratch or blemish the scope finish. I don't run my F-TR rifle into barricades of burned out car bodies, or used tires. My original March-X 5-50X56 still looks pristine after 10 years, and hundreds of competitions all over North America.