Sound Suppressor Advice?

[alton9]

I'm thinking about getting a suppressor for my centerfire rifles ( and my xp-100 too!). So far I think I want a .30 cal , titanium, thread mount can, but I don't know about the brands. I want decent suppression, good accuracy (1/2 moa?)and light weight. I can foresee hunting and bench shooting with it. Primarily will be using it on bolt guns but I won't rule out my AR. Any advice will be welcome and appreciated.
Thanks,
alton9

 

[xdeano]

A Thunder Beast Arms 30-P1 will fit what you're asking for. Great little can.

http://www.thunderbeastarms.com/

xdeano

 

[brian427cobra]

My recommendation

http://www.sharksuppressors.com/Catalog.aspx

 

[Scott Harris]

I've got three Quicksilver titanium suppressors and they are superb. My zero does not change when putting them on or off.

 

[nhm16]

Suppressed Armament Systems (SAS) 7.62 Arbiter is what I'm considering. From what I have read it's within a hair's breadth of the Thunderbeast 30P-1/30BA, including similar mounting options, but at a significantly lower price.

 

[xdeano]

I run a AAC 7.62SD on my guns, and my recommendation on the TBA 30P1 is only because of the Ti that they are build with and the dB rating that they have. If a guy is going to spend 1K on a suppressor, buy the one you want because you don't want to keep spending that kind of money all the time. Don't go after the cheap one and then wish you would have bought the better one down the road. Just buy the more expensive one the first time or you'll be kicking your own ass later on.

That being said, Snipershide was doing a group buy on the TBA suppressors here not long ago and you might still be able to get in on the group buy. It was a good price.

I've heard a few of these TBA's next to mine so far and they sound very similar and they are nice. Some of the Ti made cans have a little twang to them, i can tell you first hand that the TBA's do not. I've also had a guy tell me that his Ti can made by GemTech has a poi change with his first round pop. Which to me sounds like a can i can't rely on.

My suggestion is to go over to Silencertalk or Snipershide and do some talking with the guys over there. You'll end up with about a hundred different ideas as to which is better, just cut through the crap and you'll find the suppressor you're looking for. I've also heard a Shark and they are very decent.

If it were me and I wanted a Ti can it would be one of those two mfg's.
TBA 30P1 or Shark. The Shark can be taken apart also.

xdeano

 

[alton9]

Thanks guys, keep the opinions coming.I've already learned of 2 mfg. that I was previously unaware of. The poi change on the first shot wouldn't be good for my purposes , so thats good to know too.
Thanks,
alton9

 

[Outrider27]

Having sworn I wouldn't buy another can, I have refrained from looking at the Ti cans (I already have 2 steel and 1 aluminum cans...), but a general piece of advice. When I got the can for my AR I got a can threaded 1/2-28 because that was, I discovered by threading my first .22 rimfire can on in place of the flash arrestor to see if it fit, what the flash arrester thread was. Given the price of cans and the tax stamp, getting that heavier duty .22 centerfire can threaded 1/2-28 was a mistake. The manufacturer makes the same series of cans with a quick detach adapter, and I should have gotten the .30 caliber can with the quick detach adapter rather than the same can in .22 Centerfire version with a 1/2-28 thread. The quick detach adapter screws on like a flash arrester; the trick part is that the back of the adapter can be had in 1/2-28 or several larger threads (the most common is 5/8-24), so that, by purchasing the same can in .30 caliber instead of the .22 centerfire version, I could buy QD adapters in the appropriate ID and thread pitch and use the same can on both my 300 WSM long range gun and on my .223 AR, and any caliber in between that I cared to get the barrel threaded for in 5/8-24 thread rather than 1/2-28 - would just need the right adapter for each gun.

If you are getting or have an AR with a bull barrel, then you can get it threaded 5/8-24 (.625-24) for a .30 can on the .223 barrel anyway, but if you already have an AR upper with a 1/2-28 thread, a larger caliber QD can and a fist full of QD adapters threaded 1/2-28 and 5/8-24 is something to consider since the can doesn't care which gun it's on, nor does the BATFE which gun the can is on. Just one more thing to consider.

Now you've got me thinking maybe I do need a Ti can....

 

[xdeano]

The only real reason for going with a Ti can would be weight savings.

If it's a precision long range gun, go with a direct thread. I use a QD like Outrider27 is talking about but here's the biggest kicker on the qd cans is that for each and every rifle you attach the can to, you will need to thread each barrel like you would with any direct threaded can, but on top of that you have to buy a QD break/flash hider etc for each weapon also. They can run you from 100$ to 150$ per weapon. There can also be a slight amount of play with the QD mounting systems also. I know I have to send my old 18 tooth AAC mount in about every year and a half to get new spring put in it because they've worn out and don't lock the can in place any more, and after 3 to 5 rounds the can loosens up and i can see it down range in accuracy. I go from .25" groups to 1.5" groups at 100yds. If i'm shooting at any kind of distance say 600yds, you can't hit anything.

I will agree with Outrider, get a can that is large enough for your largest caliber and shoot anything smaller through that one can. It'll save you money in the long run. I shoot a 30cal can on my 308, 22-250, 6mmSLR...etc.

xdeano

 

[markm87]

There can also be a slight amount of play with the QD mounting systems also. I know I have to send my old 18 tooth AAC mount in about every year and a half to get new spring put in it because they've worn out and don't lock the can in place any more, and after 3 to 5 rounds the can loosens up and i can see it down range in accuracy. I go from .25" groups to 1.5" groups at 100yds. If i'm shooting at any kind of distance say 600yds, you can't hit anything.

Yep... We're running the 7.62SD can on a .308 bolt gun, and we had to do mods to get the can to lock up in one of the teeth on the mount.

 

[icekra]

I like this one.
Have one on my 6,5x47 Lapua and on 7mm STW

http://www.danishguntech.dk/index.asp?TopID=1

Not the cheapest one :

 

[JohnPierce]

Have a look on our web sight...Pierceengineeringltd.com.

I make an aluminum(1# in weight). We machine the suppressor for 30 cal.
So you can put it on a smaller cal.

Cold shot and fallow up in the same spot..

The suppressor sets back over muzzle 4 inches....

Referances...Police depts. And USDA agencies on request.

The quitest we have tested!!!

 

[xdeano]

John,

Which state of USDA-WS are you selling to? Just curious.
Aluminum being soft wouldn't baffel wear be pretty quick?
It is cheap though. Good price.

xdeano

 

[alton9]

Xdeano,
Weight is exactly why I was thinking titanium. Good to know about potential problems with QD mounts too. I am leaning toward a direct thread anyway because I really don't like the thought of an "assault rifle" looking mount on my bolt guns. Not saying theres anything wrong with it, it's just not for me.Thanks for your input & advice.Keep it coming...

JohnPierce,
I looked at your site but couldn't find any specs on your can (weight, length, max & min bbl dia. etc.) Can you hook me up with some info?

 

[308sako]

I have 2 AAC silencers, one the Cyclone is direct thread (.30 cal.) and the other an SPR-M4 is a quick detach (.224 cal.) I would only buy the direct thread in the future, and would also have liked the Ti alternative. Additionally I would use a .30 caliber can for my .223 shooting, it is hard to tell the difference louder!

The accuracy is normally equal or better when suppressed, and the first round is normally with in the group. This is a function of how concentric the barrel and the shoulder the can tightens to squares up to the silencer. Pay to have it done correctly, you will not regret that!

 

[JohnPierce]

We have supplied to Mi, Wis., Min.,Ohio, Kansas...
If you wish to have references give a ring please...

We use really good coatings and have not Sean degradation to this point...The Aluminum dissipates heat very fast and I feel it aids in sound reduction....I do agree that Ti has advantages but for the price differance and the fact that if you wear out mine it can be rebuilt for a small charge.

Can weight is 1#
Length ...9 inches

Set back over barrel ...4. Inches

Fits over a heavy varmint contour..

This design originated in Sweden and has been in use for many years with great satisfaction....

Cost $550.00

Thank you for your interest...

 

[Outrider27]

Thanks to all who replied to the QD portion of my advice. Guess I'll just have to stick to direct thread and make sure that any rifle I wish to suppress has a barrel contour sufficient to accomodate a 5/8-24 thread. Good to know, especially when choosing an AR platform upper.

 

[dansig]

just tried a suppressor on my 6mm BR, it was custom built and the 6mm BR sounds like a .22LR and the recoil is almost the same as the .22LR

no need for hearing protection while shooting with the suppressor..

now I just have to get the new LV barrel on my .300 win mag and try the suppressor on that rifle.