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Sorting brass?

When you sort your brass, how much weight do you sort them by? I've noticed with lapua 6brx brass most of then are around 130.30gns. But then I get a lot at 131 and 129. How close should I run these? Would it amount for much? I shoot at 600 f class for the most part.
 
I sort my 308 in 1 grain increments. 150 to 150.9 151 to 151.9 Some people say you can go 2 grain increments but I am trying to wring out all the accuracy I can get. I sort bullets to 1/10 gr.
Tarey
 
Food for thought. I don't sort my brass into batches. I sort whatever quantity of brass I have for that lot by weight into order. I put all the brass into a grid and weigh each one recording it on excel spreadsheet. I then change how excel orders them from 1-x to weight. Then I re sort them as I put them into boxes. This is done after trimming and fireforming to my chamber however. Once sorted some of my rifles actually string the shots according to weight of the case and I can predict pretty close were to hold to put the heavier brass round were the lighter casing round shot. This is however not a bench gun at all and shot only from bipod or backpack so accuracy standard for this rifle is lower than what most people on this forum would except from a rifle.
Just another way of doing things if you are ever curious.
 
Minesweeper3433 said:
Food for thought. I don't sort my brass into batches.

Same here. For me there are so many other areas of opportunity that could yield more results.

After reading that Froggy article I look for other areas for improvement.
 
I once weight sorted 400pcs of 204R brass in .04 increments for an accurate rifle.
Loaded its favorite load in the lightest and heaviest batch and tested. Both seemed just as good on paper.
Decided to load 10 of the culls that were either too light or too heavy for any group and headed for the scrap bin.
That ten shot group was tighter than either previous five shot group.

Put all 400pcs in a carboard box and shook em up good. One less thing to worry about. YMMV.
 
I use Lapua brass in my 284 Shehane and have up to now sorted them into boxes of 50 with a spread of no more than 1 grain. I do not really think that it will give me any improvement in accuracy at long range but it makes me feel good.
A well known shooter here in the UK when asked the same question, said that he had a word with a well known brass manufacturer who said it makes no difference if you sort them or not. So as long as there are no imperfections just load and shoot them.
But I am sure that there are always other shooters viewpoint, so if you think it will do some good, then do it.
 
Surprised no one mentioned weighing by case capacity/volume. There is enough weight variance in case heads to skew the results of the case weight technique, especially across different lot numbers.

I know the water or alcohol (preferred) weighing method is messy, but it will give accurate results.

Once sound reloading techniques are applied, getting the bullet to the target becomes a 'head' game. If case weighing makes you feel better about your ammo, you will do better with it. I've given up on weighing. I just haven't seen enough (or any) benefit shooting my .308 in F T/R to justify the extra work. I do however, have my brass (Lapua) sorted by lot number and that's good enough for me.
 
jo191145 said:
I once weight sorted 400pcs of 204R brass in .04 increments for an accurate rifle.
Loaded its favorite load in the lightest and heaviest batch and tested. Both seemed just as good on paper.
Decided to load 10 of the culls that were either too light or too heavy for any group and headed for the scrap bin.
That ten shot group was tighter than either previous five shot group.

Put all 400pcs in a carboard box and shook em up good. One less thing to worry about. YMMV.

I'm also on the same path. I'm now concentrating more on my own shooting skills, rather than blaming every error on either the rifle or ammo. Since I started that approach, it's amazing how much better the same rifle and ammo started shooting 8)
 
I don't worry about weighing them either. In club matches - if a round drops out or goes high I put it aside (F-class for score). For regional matches I take the cases that have held elevation in club events and shoot them.

I appreciate if you are shooting for group the above may not work for you.
 

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