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Sorry, Another Question

I have been reloading for 30 years , mainly 308 for benchrest but never shot hard cast . My question is , I'm shooting 38's out or a 357 , when prepping the brass remember hard cast , semi and WC .trim length 1.145 - 55 is it necessary to trim to the same length . Loading 45acp I never had to trim I know it a taper crimp not roll like in a revolver . It's a practice round on the low end of the powder scale , practice for SD 7 - 10 yards out of a 2 & 3" revolver. Would the neck tension be good enough with a light roll crimp with out trimming to reload hard cast?
Chris
 
CW all I shoot out of my revolvers is hard cast, never trimmed cases and just use Lee dies. I use a light load of W231. Always worked great for my purposes. Probably not the most accurate loads possible but they work fine for making smoke and noise
 
Lighter target loads are not a problen with light crimps in 2" revolvers. Bullets should not jump crimp with good neck tension. About .002" Some folks even taper crimp their target loads for revolvers. Taper crimp is more forgiving with range brass thats very different in trim lengths.

I like to keep trim length at +/- .002" or .005" from shortest to longest. This lets the roll crimp be in the bullets crimp groove, on my home cast bullets. But not all crimp grooves are the same.

My S&W M337PD 10 oz, 38 special comes with a warning from the factory. Dont shoot lead bullets. Lead Bullets may jump crimp and jam cylinder.
But all i shoot is lead. No problems with hand loaded +P rounds. (Except it hurts my hand).
But brass is hand picked for these carry loads. A firm crimp is applied with brass of all the same length, in nickel brass. Neck tension can be higher then 2. Up to .004" NT is used in high recoiling revolvers.
 
just crimp enough so the round chambers easily. They should fall in, and have a light smack on the extractor rod and they should pop right out depending on the load.
 
JimSC
I will probably shoot mostly hard cast for now , I'm going to finish up some Bullseye I had left over for awhile then stick with W231 that I use for 45auto , kills two birds with one powder. I also shoot light loads for practice punching paper 2.7 with Bullseye and 3.0 W231. I just ordered the carbide factory crimp die 38/357 , I started using it for my 45acp reloads and it's been working excellent . 45 is a taper 38 is a roll crimp . Trimming I'm still up in the air about do to the crimp , the length I'm not so concerned with for now most of the rounds will be shot of a 357 cylinder. Thanks Jim for answering my post , some day hope to return the favor.
Chris
 
243winxb
I have some lead HBWC that I'll shoot and trim to the same length , even though I'm not loading hot , only practice rounds. The hard cast is a different story , the neck tension may be good enough to hold the bullet in place with a light erratic crimp with cases a few thousands difference . I really have to measure the case lengths I just sized to see how much of a difference in the cases. I got them from a shooting friend that saves the store brass he shoots , he has no interest in reloading . It's only once fired and are all RP & Win. Works out well for me . Thanks for taking the time in answering my post.
Chris
 
JimSC
I will probably shoot mostly hard cast for now , I'm going to finish up some Bullseye I had left over for awhile then stick with W231 that I use for 45auto , kills two birds with one powder. I also shoot light loads for practice punching paper 2.7 with Bullseye and 3.0 W231. I just ordered the carbide factory crimp die 38/357 , I started using it for my 45acp reloads and it's been working excellent . 45 is a taper 38 is a roll crimp . Trimming I'm still up in the air about do to the crimp , the length I'm not so concerned with for now most of the rounds will be shot of a 357 cylinder. Thanks Jim for answering my post , some day hope to return the favor.
Chris
crimping gets rid of belling..... for seating bullets. Cast are slightly over sized, I take it with your bullets? I use Cowboy dies for my 38. It doesn't under size like the standard die for jacketed bullets. But I always have to crimp enough to chamber.
 
milboltnut
Thanks for chiming in , I ordered the Lee Factory Crimp die , I like the die for that reason , it sizes the case OD all the same exact size , it eliminates feed , chambering and ejecting problems. Thanks Again.
Chris
 
Sorry bro I got on a roll... crimp....! binge !! LOL If you look at the chamber on your revolver, it waaay long than the casings, and you will never have to trim. Me personally I never had the need for crimping anything... except for feeding issues on my revolver. Lee's factory crimp die is the fastest and easiest for your deal. I use the seat/crimper die just as easy, without the extra step. I rather seat and crimp at the same time. I use a Lyman hand turret press. Good shooting.
 
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milboltnut
Thanks for chiming in , I ordered the Lee Factory Crimp die , I like the die for that reason , it sizes the case OD all the same exact size , it eliminates feed , chambering and ejecting problems. Thanks Again.
Chris
any roll or taper will do it evenly, nothing special about Lee other than the name "factory" crimp. Guess people excited over nothing. They're big advertisement is it makes more accurate ammo. NOT.
 
milboltnut
The 357 cylinder has plenty of room not to worry about trim length but my only concern is a fairly accurate crimp position , I know the Lee FCD doesn't do anything for accuracy , seems to iron out any imperfections & budges . Use it on my 45acp . I've been reloading for quite a while with only a single stage Rockchucker , works well for me , I'm not reloading volume , rifle 30 rounds per week pistol 50 38spl. 50 45acp.. Great hobby.Be Well.
Chris
 
For use in a semi auto pistol I put a taper crimp on all of my loaded ammo. For ammo used in a revolver it gets a roll crimp unless I use plated bullets that have no cannelure, then these get a taper crimp. You can argue whether ammo should be be crimped or doesn't need to crimped, but all smokeless powders burn better/cleaner when at the upper end of their pressure range. Applying a crimp of some sort increases the bullet pull, increasing internal pressure giving a cleaner more uniform burn to the powder.
 
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milboltnut
I figured the 357 cylinder has plenty of room to worry about trim length but my only concern is a fairly accurate crimp position , I know the Lee FCD doesn't do anything for accuracy , seems to iron out any imperfections on the case. Accurate ammo is hard to tell with me behind the trigger of a revolver.
Chris
 
Twicepop
I lightly crimp with light revolver loads , I do like the Lee FCD though.
Thanks for answering my post .
Chris
 
Thanks DirtySteve
You sure do have a way with words , I laughed out loud. Im not sure if you like the die or not. Someone told me to give it a try for my 45acp reloads and haven't had a bulged case since. Just ordered it for my 38 crimp die . My RCBS 3 die set worked fine , the Lee FCDie worked so well I'll use it as the forth finishing die . Are the cats ass , can't wait to use that one . Thanks Steve.Be Well
Chris
 
all my rounds load flawlessly with the crimp in the seater die for my revolver. Does the Lee Factory crimp die work that much better for the 45 ACP vs. the seater die crimp?
 
milboltnut
I am using the RCBS carbide 3 die set with a taper crimp , worked fine but every once and awhile I would get that bulge when seating the bullet , they fed fine fit into the case gauge , just didn't want the bulge. I use the Lee taper FC die . Worked perfect . If you want perfect , the Lyman expander die replaces the flare die , enstead of a flare it expanded the case mouth with more of a even step aligning the bullet. Also Lyman has a sleeved seating die holding the bullet centered in place . I went the whole 9 yards. May not be necessary but that's just me.
Chris
 

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