Some Glue-In Questions - Belzona, Melonite, Etc

[WVHick]

Looking to do my first glue-in with a soon-to-arrive Dima BR stock and Bat Model M. I’ve done a lot of research and the epoxy with the highest solid content and least amount of shrinkage seems to be Belzona 1111 Super Metal but it ain’t cheap. Has anyone performed a bedding, then rough up, then glue in with Belzona? Are most people still using JB Weld?

Also, my Model M is Melonite coated. Will this need sanded/removed on the bottom of the action prior to the glue in?

Appreciate the help/discussion.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I have worked with Belzonia in the Marine Industry.

The one reason I would not recommend it for a glue in is one day you might have to get it apart.

 

[rwj]

I have worked with Belzonia in the Marine Industry.

The one reason I would not recommend it for a glue in is one day you might have to get it apart.

They also make a release compound that can be applied to parts that the user wants to be removable.

 

[WVHick]

I have worked with Belzonia in the Marine Industry.

The one reason I would not recommend it for a glue in is one day you might have to get it apart.

This makes sense. I feel like using a release agent like @rwj described and it wouldn’t be a glue in but just a normal bedding job.

Are most people still using JB weld? In my head I feel like there should be something better but that’s not based on anything haha.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I started using this for bedding. I get it from the shipyards. We use it to bond in non metallic bearings.

 

[LVLAaron]

Pro Bed 2000 sure is nice stuff to work with. Non critical 1:1 mix ratio. Seems to shrink less than the other usual suspects.

 

[WVHick]

Pro Bed 2000 sure is nice stuff to work with. Non critical 1:1 mix ratio. Seems to shrink less than the other usual suspects.

Are you using Pro Bed for the glue in or just the bedding?

 

[LVLAaron]

Only bedding so far. But I don't see why it wouldn't work for a glue in. Heat softens it up.

 

[Tim Singleton]

JB weld has worked well for me

 

[Sniperhandle]

Belzona is very good stuff, We used to repair engine blocks when I worked for Caterpillar. I never tried it for bedding though. And it is pricey.

 

[ChrisNZ]

What's wrong with Marinetex for this? Works great for bedding jobs, very low long term shrinkage.

 

[WVHick]

Belzona is very good stuff, We used to repair engine blocks when I worked for Caterpillar. I never tried it for bedding though. And it is pricey.

I swear I read somewhere once that Chad Dixon at LongRiflesINC uses it for his bedding work and his stuff looks top notch. Then again, so does a lot of other peoples haha.

I think it’s like anything…there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[butchlambert]

I swear I read somewhere once that Chad Dixon at LongRiflesINC uses it for his bedding work and his stuff looks top notch. Then again, so does a lot of other peoples haha.

I think it’s like anything…there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

I had rather listen to Jackie!

 

[BoydAllen]

Years ago Kelly McMillan gave me a prototype EDGE stock, installed on my barrelled action. His gunsmith did the bedding with Marine Tex and glued it in with JB Weld. That was a quarter century ago and the rifle still shoots lights out.

 

[AlNyhus]

When forced to do a glue in, I've used JB High Heat. On the last one, I used a Dura Bond product that was recommended by someone I trust.

 

[BoydAllen]

When forced to do a glue in, I've used JB High Heat. On the last one, I used a Dura Bond product that was recommended by someone I trust.

I have slightly different slant. Given that there are are aluminum actions with steel inserts that are secured in different ways. What I would want would be an epoxy that is known to be a very good adhesive, that would not be softened by heat generated by shooting, but which did not take high heat to remove the action.

Stiller's Viper actions were made to be glued in, and for that reason have a vary coarse flycut finish on their bottoms, which probably doubles the bonding area. Beyond that he told me that epoxy does not make as strong of a bond with bare aluminum as it does if it is anodized (Siller aluminum actions are hard anodized.). Something about the oxide layer that forms on bare aluminum being not that strongly attached as anodizing. Finally, there is no front action screw hole, which protects the bedding from cleaning solvents. Back when he built the rifle, he told me that he used a clear epoxy that was designed to attach golf club heads to their shafts. He figured that it would have to have good impact resistance for that use. It has been about 25 years since the action was glued in, with absolutely no sign of a problem.

 

[AlNyhus]

Boyd, the JB Weld 'High Heat' doesn't require excessive heat to come apart. 15 minutes at most with my vintage clothes iron. One of the DuraBond products requires quite a bit more soak time but no more heat. -Al

 

[BoydAllen]

Boyd, the JB Weld 'High Heat' doesn't require excessive heat to come apart. 15 minutes at most with my vintage clothes iron. One of the DuraBond products requires quite a bit more soak time but no more heat. -Al

Thanks for the info. As you know I like learning new stuff.

 

[Edd]

I swear I read somewhere once that Chad Dixon at LongRiflesINC uses it for his bedding work and his stuff looks top notch. Then again, so does a lot of other peoples haha.

I think it’s like anything…there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

I think he uses this stuff.

https://itwperformancepolymers.com/wp-content/uploads/Fasmetal%E2%84%A2-10-HVAC-Repair-v3-.pdf

 

[Alex Wheeler]

If a glue in comes apart it was a prep problem. If your trying to keep the bottom of the action pretty just bed it. You have to prep it right. Theres very little force applied between the action and stock. We are not demanding much of the epoxy. Theres a big difference taking them apart between scuffed and getting after it.