Solvents that etch barrels

[Pete Wass]

So I have a question about barrels that have been etched by cleaning solvents, less say. Does the etching remove metal? Does it cause carbon and or copper to be deposited or does it do nothing except remove the shine?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[Straightshooter1]

So I have a question about barrels that have been etched by cleaning solvents, less say. Does the etching remove metal? Does it cause carbon and or copper to be deposited or does it do nothing except remove the shine?

Thanks,

Pete

Yes, etching removes metal.

Cleaning solvents containing acids will etch barrels. But depending on the acid, the length of time in contact with the steel will determine how much, if any, etching takes place. And yes, things like CLR can do some etching with prolonged contact and will actually remove carbon and copper deposits. . . and why it should be used cautiously, being sure to rinse rinse it out thoroughly.

 

[Pete Wass]

Yes, etching removes metal.

Cleaning solvents containing acids will etch barrels. But depending on the acid, the length of time in contact with the steel will determine how much, if any, etching takes place. And yes, things like CLR can do some etching with prolonged contact and will actually remove carbon and copper deposits. . . and why it should be used cautiously, being sure to rinse rinse it out thoroughly.

Thanks for your reply. So, any idea how much metal is removed say the acid was left there a few days or does it become spent after a time? Ever see any electronic microscope pictures of the depth of the etching, etc.?

 

[gmr4]

At this point I’d go ahead and see if they still shoot good!

 

[Will Henry]

I can't imagine the circumstance under which I would put CLR in a barrel. WH

 

[joshb]

I don’t understand your premise. The process of “etching” anything removes material.

Thanks for your reply. So, any idea how much metal is removed say the acid was left there a few days or does it become spent after a time? Ever see any electronic microscope pictures of the depth of the etching,

There was an outfit that sold “etched barrels” in an attempt to become the “new thing”.
They went out of business.

 

[Straightshooter1]

Thanks for your reply. So, any idea how much metal is removed say the acid was left there a few days or does it become spent after a time?

No, I have no idea how much metal is removed over any period of time. I do know it all depends on the type of acid and the makeup of the steel for the extent of metal removed. And likewise for the amount of time when the acid's reaction becomes neutralized (environment involved can have an effect on the time also).

Ever see any electronic microscope pictures of the depth of the etching, etc.?

Actually, I have seen electron microscope pictures of etchings and their depth (think microchips, a little different than steel ).

 

[Syncrowave]

In the welding world, we use acid etching to check the integrity of welds. You section the weld -- cut through it with a saw or whatever, so that you get a cross-section containing both the weld nugget and the substrate -- and then etch it with an acid, then look at it with magnification/polarization to check for discontinuities or complete fusion.

Many stainless steels are particularly sensitive to chlorides -- sodium chloride (table salt) which is in sweat, for example. Some SS alloys are more resistant, for example 304 or even better 316L which is often used in saltwater marine applications. But the 400-series SS used in rifles, I believe, is susceptible to chloride attack.

And the strongest chloride there is, if I'm not mistaken, is hydrogen chloride -- HCl, also known as hydrochloric acid or toilet bowl cleaner. Mucous protects your stomach from it, but rifle barrels ain't got snot.

I wouldn't put toilet bowl cleaner into my barrel on a bet.
Why not just use an oxylance, or a Harbor Freight Tools bent drill bit, and save us all some time?

 

[Jeff Buchanan]

Great information…thanks!

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

I can't imagine the circumstance under which I would put CLR in a barrel. WH

CLR is Good "Chit" for, Muzzle Brake cleaning but, a 1/2 Hour, "Soak" IS,. "Max" for Me then, Degrease with, Acetone / tooth brush, wipe Dry and Oil with, Silicone ( Dry that, too ! ).
I clean my Barrels with, Barnes C-10 Copper removal ( Max 15 Min.,.. wet Soak ) First and then, BoreTech Carbon Eliminator ( in Throat area ). Dry Barrel / Chamber, Carefully then, Oil, then, Dry patches.
Seems to Work "Well" IF, Done at about, 80 rounds or so, thru the Barrel.
I put Rifle, in my, Padded Vise, Up-side Down, w/ Muzzle Brake, just barely covered, in CLR in a Long Glass, Olive Jar,. WATCH the,. TIME, tho ! The CLR can Be reused, a Few Times, in the Glass Olive Jar if, Capped.
I keep Round Count & cleaning Records, on All my Rifles,.. Now !

 

[Will Henry]

I might use it to clean a muzzle brake, but probably not. It works pretty well to clean the shower head and drain though.
I also don't use Clorox, tub and tile cleaner, oven cleaner, Bag Balm, or Raid on my rifles. There are a bunch of proven firearms products which work just fine. WH

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

I've also Read that, Muzzle Brakes can Be cleaned w/ a 50-50 Mix of, Hydro Peroxide and white Vinegar,..
But I haven't tested it,.. Yet !

 

[divingin]

CLR has an acidity about the same as table white vinegar. Should be OK for short duration application; I wouldn't soak it for any length of time.

 

[M-61]

I can't imagine the circumstance under which I would put CLR in a barrel. WH

Where on a CLR container does it say ‘ for use on steel’?

 

[M-61]

CLR has an acidity about the same as table white vinegar. Should be OK for short duration application; I wouldn't soak it for any length of time.

I would not use CLR or vinegar on any barrel for any duration.

 

[gmr4]

Where on a CLR container does it say ‘ for use on steel’?

Contact the folk that make CLR and they say it is absolutely safe on stainless used as directed and that it is used all the time on metals… as directed. There are posts about this on this forum…
That being said.. I dont use it.

 

[swd]

A few years ago there a long discussion here on CLR and a member soaked a SS barrel stub in it for something like a week or a month and didn't do anything to it.. Carbon steel might be a whole different story.

 

[M-61]

Contact the folk that make CLR and they say it is absolutely safe on stainless used as directed and that it is used all the time on metals… as directed. There are posts about this on this forum…
That being said.. I dont use it.

And neither would I.
I am interested only in what is on the label.
“it is used all the time on metals….”
As you know there are many types of metals. That statement ie useless, as well as meaningless. A phone call? Kid with his hat on backwards. Or maybe CLR has metallurgists answering their phones!

 

[Pete Wass]

In the welding world, we use acid etching to check the integrity of welds. You section the weld -- cut through it with a saw or whatever, so that you get a cross-section containing both the weld nugget and the substrate -- and then etch it with an acid, then look at it with magnification/polarization to check for discontinuities or complete fusion.

Many stainless steels are particularly sensitive to chlorides -- sodium chloride (table salt) which is in sweat, for example. Some SS alloys are more resistant, for example 304 or even better 316L which is often used in saltwater marine applications. But the 400-series SS used in rifles, I believe, is susceptible to chloride attack.

And the strongest chloride there is, if I'm not mistaken, is hydrogen chloride -- HCl, also known as hydrochloric acid or toilet bowl cleaner. Mucous protects your stomach from it, but rifle barrels ain't got snot.

I wouldn't put toilet bowl cleaner into my barrel on a bet.
Why not just use an oxylance, or a Harbor Freight Tools bent drill bit, and save us all some time?

Thanks you. Nothing like real world information.

 

[TRSR8]

Love to find out which solvents are acidic.
FWIW the biggest risk to SS barrels occurring from misuse probably comes from Sweets….heavy ammonia.
There’s a reason instructions dictate not leaving in barrel more than 15-20 minutes.