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So. Which round to go with (6-47 Lapua or 6XC or 6.5 Creedmoor )

The problem isn't hitting a 6" circle at 700 yards. The problem is you have to hit a brain at 700 yards. The brain is more like 3". I've seen plenty of pictures of deer with blown off jaws, missing eyes, etc.

Shooting from a nice bench or shooting mat in fair weather is one thing. Shooting in the field, in freezing cold, your heart pounding from anticipation of the shot you've been working a week for is a whole different ball game.

Take the broadside shot. Be ethical and be humane. Don't over estimate your skills. The bragging rights aren't that important.

OP: what stock are you going with? That would influence my decision on barrel contour if you're going with say a manners elite hunter or an elite tactical, you may be able to go with the varmint and it not bug you. As Erik said, length will be more important than contour for hunting. You want the velocity to reduce wind error.

If you're going with traditional fiberglass or a chassis system, it's going to be heavy and you won't enjoy carrying the bulk.
 
Well, I think I will chime in on this since I may have been a nationally competitive f-classer at one time and now am a nationally competitive Precision Rifle Shooter.

I have shot the 6xc and 6.5 creed, as well as a 260AI in tactical matches on the National level over the last 2 years. The only reason I have yet to switch to the 6.5x47 is that I am currently heavily invested in components for the 6xc and 6.5creed at the time being.

For your wishes to hunt and shoot steel to 1000 yards< I will give you the following advice; Avoid a 6mm, not only is it the pooper of the choices for hunting, although it will do, in many match settings I have had hits on 800+ yard steel not called as hits, impact energy and larger heavy plates at long range, especially those stationary/minimally reactive plates, combined with tired spotters will lose you points. Add to that you will have a harder time seeing your own misses. The plus side is the 6xc is fabulously accurate and fun to shoot. I reserve this gun for matches which are typically under 800 yards.

I have a 6.5 creedmoor that shoots as well as any 6.5x47, but I spent a lot of time prepping brass and weight sorting it. Only advantage is about 100 fps faster on average at similar pressures. If I was starting from scratch I would tell you what others told me, get a 6.5x47 and be happy, no brass work, they shoot extremely low vertical spreads at distance, and when 140s are run around 2700 fps barrel life will extend into the 2500+ range. I have laid on too many long range KD lines and seen 6.5x47 pop 2 spots on LR steel within an inch of each other to not understand this rounds effective accuracy even with novice handloaders.

Contrary to popular belief, you really need a sub 1/2 minute gun to be highly competitive at Tac/precision matches. I prefer my guns be capable of .2-.3 moa. Most guys on this forum don't understand the challenges of shooting a KYL plate rack at 700 yards with the last target being a 4" square. Or walking up to the cold bore line at 7:30 in the morning and having a choice of shooting an 8" plate at 600 yards for 1 point, or choosing to shoot a 4" plate for 2 points. Or shooting an 12" diamond plate at 932 yards which seems huge until you understand this shot has no sighters, and if your elevation is not spot on you will lose all the wind advantage a circle would offer.

good luck with your choice, your at the advantage of not being committed right now choose wisely.


I spend as much time and effort in my Tac loads as I did with my f-o loads.
 
I dont respond to ofton but I sure love this site, somtimes the new shooter has to wade through a lot bravo sierra to get to where he needs to be, having shot a fair amount of long range precision varmint matches,where the coyotes are at 850 and the cotton tail rabbits are at 550 with hairy wind changes, and tactical matches,shooting from the inside of a humvee at a 3/4 ipsc plate at 925 i stand with mr. See except for what you what to do none of these rounds, and i have them,have enough boiler!!! room you need one that will get a 140 going as close to 3100 fps as you can,in the 1/2 moa range it just spells forgivness when it comes to range estimation and wind calls that's just my 2 cents from experience and I will gladly shut up!!!
 
whunt_64 said:
Boy a lot has changed on this thread since I was last on. I tend to agree 100 percent with Erik on this one.
Yeah! Erik's right. I shoot F-Open and I will assure anyone that Lapua brass is the way to go. Not only does it appear to be the most consistent, it's the cheapest brass you can buy on a per load basis. I'm by no means an elitist either. I shoot a straight Savage F-Class model including accutrigger with a Brux barrel.
It does pretty well. Any match that I've won has been won in the reloading room. Lapua is a big part of that.
 
You need to broaden your choices to include a 6.5x284 or the straight 284. Both will do the job completely with enough energy left on target to fill your needs.

My "Personal" Opinion is that shooting animals at long range is for big egos. Esp. trying to head shoot one at 600 or 700yds. Be a good sport and get closer for hunting and shoot small plates at long range for your ego and bragging rights.
 
You need ballistic coefficient. BC means long/heavy. Long/heavy means recoil. Recoil is tamed by mass. Mass is a bitch to hike up and down mountains.

But if ya gotta shoot game long range, get a 284 throated for a long heavy bullet of your choice as the 284 has a short neck. It's going to kick like a 30-06 of similar weight. But, when you go long range, that's part of the game.
 
brianc74 said:
Holly cr:)p. what kind of can of worms did I open.
So a suggested barrel length and a minimum countour of barrel.
I have a light palma contour ( Kreiger) that is 30" that weighs less then a 26" rem varmit contour and shoots plenty good. thats the contour I would use and make it 26" at minimum. Just my humble opinion.
 

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