• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

So I had a bullet get stuck in the lands

I have had this Tikka T3x in 270 win for about 9 months w/o a hiccup. Shoots several loads at half MOA, and i am very happy with it. The other day, I had a bullet get stuck in the chamber. Powder everywhere, several words were said, etc. I have never had this happen before. I always take several measurements with the stoney point kit, and go 10-20, or whatever thousandths off the lands and record the group difference on most all of the rifles I work on. This Tikka, I kept 20 thou off for the OCW tests, and was saving the depth tests for later on.
Anyway, I went to remeasure the distance to the lands, and my numbers were all over the place. I ran several patches of WD40 down the barrel in an effort to save most of the fouling, but still remove whatever was causing the bullet to get stuck, even though it was 20 thou away. Still no luck. I called Hornady and Sierra, they had never heard of this either. So, that was one nightmare I went through.
The second nightmare, was the exact same thing happened to by Kimber Montana in 243 win with a Douglas barrel on it! And On the same day! Again, I cleaned all of the powder out, put several patches of WD40 down the barrel to save the fouling. That didn't help. So I brought out the JB Bore paste and Bore bright. Now I am back to getting constant reading with the Stoney point Case Length Gauge.
The Kimber measured 2.992'' to the lands. the Bullet seating depth was set at 2.966'' off. So my question is, how does a bullet get stuck in the barrel being .030'' off?? What type of dirt or fouling would cause this? I have been doing this stuff since the 70's. Not as much as I have been for the last 15 or so years, but dang! It's not like I have been hunting in a desert with 50 mph winds, or in anytime type of dirty environment. And most of the time i keep tape on there end of my barrel.
So For now, and to bring an end to my nightmare, I just loaded at Sierra's and Hornady's suggested OAL's and call it good for now. What do you think happened? Thx.
 
Maybe a real bad carbon ring might cause this. They are stubborn to remove, but generally JB and elbow grease gets the job done. Your results after using JB may indicate that this is what it was. JMO
 
carbon can bite you in the azz.
you should start your cleaning with a couple wet patches of carbon cleaner.
i use tec top engine cleaner..no longer available from gm but there is an outboard motor
version.
or a commercial gun carbon remover.
 
WD-40 AKA Diesel in a can. Gummed up more triggers, pump and lever action firearms than all other "Lubes" combined.

Ya know that yellow tacky, gunk that accumulates around the rim of the WD-40 can. That's what you are putting in your barrel. Leave it for what it was designed for. Water Displacement formula #40.
Try any number of name brand carbon removers . I like C4 from carbon tech myself.
In response to the OP original problem, with the information available given that it is two different calibers I would look at either a change in bullets in both calibers within the same time frame, or a reloading measurement error when seating .
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
 
carbon can bite you in the azz.
you should start your cleaning with a couple wet patches of carbon cleaner.
i use tec top engine cleaner..no longer available from gm but there is an outboard motor
version.
or a commercial gun carbon remover.
I normally soak with wipe out accelerator and patch out liquids. Then use a stiff nylon brush. It’s odd that it happened to 2 different rifles. It could be operator error and not enough neck tension.
I too would vote for a carbon ring. Do you know anyone with a borescope?
I just tried to use a $60 fiber optic used for autos that my brother has. No luck. i do have a buddy that has a hawk eye that i will ask him to take a look at it. A carbon ring is the only thing that makes any kind of sense so far. I always let the barrel cool between shots. No more than 3 at a time.
I thought wipeout would take care of the carbon. I guess it's time to use a different product for removing the carbon.
 
Ya know that yellow tacky, gunk that accumulates around the rim of the WD-40 can. That's what you are putting in your barrel. Leave it for what it was designed for. Water Displacement formula #40.
Try any number of name brand carbon removers . I like C4 from carbon tech myself.
In response to the OP original problem, with the information available given that it is two different calibers I would look at either a change in bullets in both calibers within the same time frame, or a reloading measurement error when seating .
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
I use a bore guide, so hopefully none of the wd went anywhere except the barrel. I will give the C4 a try.
 
C4 works fairly well. But in time the carbon builds and gets hard. I prefer to keep it out. Every 40 shots or so i use a little dab of Iosso on a patch wrapped around a worn out brush. Short stroke the throat area about 20 to 30 stokes back and forth. Thats is about 6 to 10 inch strokes and short stroke it out the barrel. It is alot easier to keep it out with a regular routine. The gun will shoot better with it out. Matt
 
You could also try a lee factory crimp die.
I use it on all our rifle ammo.
Can be set for lite or heavy crimp.
 
370bc
There was a thread not too long ago here on the very subject of carbon rings. You might want to look it up as there was some really good stuff on what this is and how to deal with it.
 
Only Iosso or JB on a patch wrapped on a brush will
remove carbon. All the liquids that claim to remove it,
are for the ones who believe it and don't have a
borescope. LDS
 
gm top engine cleaner will remove carbon
been there done that and yes i have a bore camera,
as stated it is off the market but outboard top engine clearer is still available as is subaru's the last time i checked.
i believe in better living thru better chemistry.

Only Iosso or JB on a patch wrapped on a brush will
remove carbon. All the liquids that claim to remove it,
are for the ones who believe it and don't have a
borescope. LDS
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
164,902
Messages
2,186,283
Members
78,579
Latest member
Gunman300
Back
Top