Small pistol primer detonation -- suggestions

[gene pool]

This has to be a subject that has been around several times, so I appologoze in advance. However, I have a particular S&W 38 special revolver that is not 100% reliable in detonating some old reloads (from 1983). Those reloads were with CCI small pistol primers. The ones it does not detonate the first time, it will on the second strike. When the primer is examined after the first strike, it appears not to be "dented" all that much.

I have read where CCI primers are made of harder material than most others.

So my questions are:

1. Has CCI changed the hardness on current small pistol primers to where they are "softer" than those made 30 years ago?

2. What major manufacturer makes a "softer" primer where I can be assured detonation on a self defense revolver?

I know there will be some who will want to discuss the springs in my revolver and freshness of ammo, but let's please let those be another thread.

Thank you,
Gene Pool

 

[fdshuster]

Gene: Winchester (all sizes) primers are claimed to be easier to ignite, since they are plain brass without the nickle plated finish. Is it true? I cannot prove it, but have used a lot & never had a problem with positive ignition. Get a box of 100 & give them a try.

 

[rvn1968]

You might want to read some of Masaad Ayoob's books.He gives very good reasons for not using handloads for self defense.When you end up in court,civil or criminal,the other side will say you made "special"ammo to inflict maximum damage.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Check to make sure the "strain screw" is tightened all the way. The ''strain screw" is the large screw on the front of the grip frame near the bottom edge. Some "bubba" gunsmiths have been known to loosen the "strain screw" to reduce trigger pull weight. This often times results in light hits.

 

[Geronimo Jim]

From my PPC days and cowboy actions (all w/light actions).... the easiest or softest is Federal, Winchester, Remington, and CCI in that order.

 

[fdshuster]

rvn1968: I also follow Ayoob's advice about using factory ammo only for carry. Agree with you 100%.

 

[gene pool]

A sincere "thank you" for all the replies. I have thoroughly cleaned the little revolver and loaded some rounds with Federal primers. I will get out today and give them a try. Will let you know the results.

Thank you again,
Gene Pool

 

[dan06]

Federal are the way to go for a sensitive primer for a revolver.

 

[gene pool]

Gentlemen,

I did the final testing today.

With current production CCI primers I had two failures to detonate in 10 rounds, so it appears that current production CCI's are hard like ones produced in the early 80's. With Federal primers, however, 50 rounds were fired without a hitch. So my conclusion is to go with Federal primers with the little revolver.

I sincerely appriciate all your inputs.

Gene Pool

 

[KevinThomas]

There's other reasons that Smith revolvers fail to fire, regardless of primers. The most common is a condition called endshake, which is a forward/backward movement of the cylinder. This is caused by simple wear on the yoke, and is easy to repair. Check to see if there is any forward/rearward play in the cylinder. If there is, that's endshake. Take it to a competent smith or a S&W warranty station for repair. The strain screw has already been mentioned, but that's also a "first check" in the case of misfires. It should be screwed down tight. Backing it off reduces trigger pull weight, and almost gurantees that you'll encounter misfres. Worth a check, just to make sure.

 

[bigedp51]

I'm with DocEd, if anyone modified the hammer spring, or shortened the strain screw you will have misfires. It was an old Bill Jordan and Skeeter Skelton trick to thin the hammer spring and shorten the strain screw to get a lighter double action trigger pull. The problem with this if the adjustments went too far you will have misfire problems.

Firing pin protrusion and endshake would be my second guess.