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Small batch case cleaning

Looking for info on small batch case cleaning. I am new to reloading so i am very cautious. I have been loading only 3-5 rounds of each caliber at a time until i find a load that works well. I was wondering if i could use a residue free solvent and a bore cleaning brush to clean my brass. I have a case tumbler but that seems wasteful. I appreciate any help
 
Sorry to start a new thread on this topic, but being new to reloading i would like to here some insight from active members who may be able to help with other questions or concerns im sure to have
 
How dirty is your brass? I clean the carbon off outside of the necks before sizing with a Krazy Kloth & wipe clean. Nevr Dull works too. Maybe a light twist in 4-O steel wool for the really stubborn carbon. Inside of necks with a snug fitting nylon brush. & primer pockets with a Dewey Crocagator. I can do 20 cases in about 4 minutes.
 
I have an ancient Vibra-Tech I use for the small batch's.
Just went over the the Pet store to get another bag of
crushed walnut. Zilla brand walnut.
 
Looking for info on small batch case cleaning. I am new to reloading so i am very cautious. I have been loading only 3-5 rounds of each caliber at a time until i find a load that works well. I was wondering if i could use a residue free solvent and a bore cleaning brush to clean my brass. I have a case tumbler but that seems wasteful. I appreciate any help

For a bolt gun:

5 rounds at a time? Hit the neck (and perhaps the upper part of the case body) with 0000 steel wool to get the soot off, turning the case by hand. It will take a second per case. Call it good, and continue with your normal loading.

FWIW this is generally what I do with most of my rifle brass (with the additional step of cleaning the primer pockets, though I've omitted that step as well on occasion.) I might run a bronze brush through the neck, but usually don't bother with it.
 
I use a vibratory tumbler with corn cobb media. Batches of 5 to 50. The media is Iosso with the cleaning agent already in it. Works great.

PopCharlie
 
Pour some alcohol on a 1000 or used 500 abralon pad. They work better than 0000 steel wood. Twist the case neck lightly to clean the outside. I use a drill with a plastic brush to clean the inside. Clean the primer pockets and you are done.
 
........... I was wondering if i could use a residue free solvent and a bore cleaning brush to clean my brass.....

Yes.

I give them a bath in alcohol, swishing them around with my hand, and let them sit out on a towel and dry overnight. The alcohol goes back into a bottle and is reused many times.

Jim
 
Sorry to start a new thread on this topic, but being new to reloading i would like to here some insight from active members who may be able to help with other questions or concerns im sure to have
I use a huge Lyman tumbler. A "Magnum" according to the baseplate - it even has a serial number! It has LYMAN plastered all over it.

When it broke the first time, I asked Lyman about it, they said they din't make it?

Whoa! So much for product support?????

Buy a Dillon.

I am continually fixing the Lyman, big time. Two major fixes that the factory could not help with (it required custom attachment/interface plates (the plastic original broke, the thing that connects the base to the bowl), and welding on the motor mounts -- they were originally welded on "L" brackets. 3 of 4 suffered metal fatigue failure.)

I welded straight on some 1/4-20 studs and re-drilled my custom MDF interface plate (which replace the broken factory plastic shite.) We be good for a long time. But one should not have to go to these extremes - a tumbler should be a once in a lifetime buy. Period.

I got the tumbler fixed ok but I would rather have been fooling around with the spousal unit or going to the range. I've got other stuff to do than to correct inferior products.

The Lymans just suck... they work ok but are not designed for a long life. Life is too short for that kinda shite.

Buy a Dillon case cleaner. A big one. And the big Dillon case separator. I've not used the RCBS, but they have provided excellent support on other products. Really awesome support from RCBS. I'd still do the Dillon.

I use 1/8" corn cob media. Find it at a pet bird supply store for a fraction of what you will pay at a firearms site.

Use some Dillon or mo beddah, Iosso case cleaner (buy it buy the quart at Amazon.) Put in an ounce or so of mineral spirits to keep the dust down (you might use water, but I have not tried that), you don't want to be breathing the dust with primer residue (lead styphnate and other interesting poisons) in the media when you separate the media from the brass.
 
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If I were using even ten cases to work up a load, a high probability I may wear them out before I find a load that makes me smile.
I work in lots of at least 50, but prefer 100.
I have them all prepped.
Once all fired I trim to equal length.
Then use the empty’s as need till they all are fired then start again if needed.

Using 3-5 you can get the necks work hardened pretty quick, which may give +or - in your variables on paper and chrono.

YMMV
 
Don't worry about the INSIDE of the cases.

Wipe carbon residue off the outside of the cases and make sure they are clean. I use Ballistol when the cases are still warm.

Then use 3-4 plastic brush strokes in the necks.

Quick pass with primer pocket brush tool in the pockets and check for obstruction in flash hole.

If your brass has not hit the ground that is all you have to do.

Shiney brass does not shoot any better.

---------------------

Pistol brass is a different story. Recommend tumbling or ultrasonic.
 

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