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SLEEVE HAS BEEN REMOVED AND THE BLUING

oneshot 66

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Purchased this, found a steel barrel with a SS sleeve and 8 oz. Sako trigger without a safety. Looks like the sleeve is glued on, I'm looking for advise on how to remove the sleeve. I used a barrel vise and action wrench, no heat. This a 23" original Sako barrel. Now to remove the old glue?
Scott
 

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What is the first picture of? It looks like a bunch of material has bee removed from the barrel.
 
If I had to absolutely remove the sleeve I'd set it up in a lathe and turn it off. Best to put a new barrel on it.
That's what I'm going to do. There is some checking after the throat, but the rest looks good.
 
The author of that article was/is incorrect- JB Weld is a very poor thermal conductor. It's unsuitable for the heat transfer needed in this application.
 
I had a very light 22 barrel and wanted to see what the sleeping would do in terms of accuracy. 5 shot groups shrunk from 1/2” to just under 1/4”. I don’t know that heat transfer rates are a big deal, unless you are running toooo many rounds too quickly.
 
I knew one guy who sleeved a military Mauser 7x57 for a silhouette rifle. He used a 12 gauge shotgun barrel for a sleeve. Seemed kind of half-assed but worked OK. I have sleeved a barrel with a drilled out original barrel. This to replicate the external appearance. If I had used the original barrel, including the threads, I would have been relining the barrel. Since I had turned and fitted a new barrel, I was sleeving it. A semantic difference, as much as anything. I drilled the sleeve for a pretty close fit and installed with high temp Loc-Tite. WH
 
I'd like to see if the barrel under the sleeve is the original Sako. I will remove the barrel and "SPIN IT UP" (why do they say that?) remove the sleeve on the lathe. I'll keep posting.
Scott
 

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