So the "problem" with that (in my head at least) is there will be zero contact with the vblock. I.e. no metal to metal contact. So wouldn't you, in theory, be inducing stress when you torque it down to spec?None, use gravity unless you want stress. Never use tape, clamps, tubing, ext. to hold the action and stock together. It induces stress.
You don't want metal to metal, epoxy will mold to the action, the aluminum wont.So the "problem" with that (in my head at least) is there will be zero contact with the vblock. I.e. no metal to metal contact. So wouldn't you, in theory, be inducing stress when you torque it down to spec?
Doesn't that fly in the face of the logic behind pillar bedding?You don't want metal to metal, epoxy will mold to the action, the aluminum wont.
No since you dont want pillars touching your action either. Same thingDoesn't that fly in the face of the logic behind pillar bedding?
Now I'm sufficiently confused - the best bed jobs in the world (LRI) has direct action to pillar contact...?No since you dont want pillars touching your action either. Same thing
Sure didnt know they were the best in the world.Now I'm sufficiently confused - the best bed jobs in the world (LRI) has direct action to pillar contact...?
Not to derail my original question, and I can't tell if you're being sarcastic, but yeah, they're are often referred to as one of, if not the best, action bedding services in the world. If you haven't seen their work, check em out. The level of precision is outstanding.Sure didnt know they were the best in the world.
When skim bedding how do you locate the action into the stock to maintain an even distribution of the skim bedding material. Spacers of some kind that don't end up in the bedding?
Well to get back to the original question, the v-block stocks such as stockys with the bobby hart v-block in them, i will bed with the v-block part left in there for locating, then mill out the 2 aluminum stripes that are left and skim bed it again so it stays in the original location but all the bedding thickness is consistent around the action which is key when shrinkage occurs
It should be part of your procedure to retorque them when you clean your trigger between matches yes. Kinda like changing your smoke detector batteries when the clocks changeIs it recommended that the action screws be retorqued on a regular basis to compensate for shrinkage? Have to admit that I have not!
Anyone out there...???Is it recommended in use of a barrel blocked gun such as a rail gun to bed the block...???