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Sizing

Was using a new sizing die tonight and it was real tough sizing this brass. I am using Hornady Unique sizing lube which I have been using for a while with good results. But this was really sticking in the die upon removal.

Question: Would the sizing lube be less effective if it was warm, high 90s today so it had a little liquid on the top? I just mixed it all up and went straight to sizing maybe I should have stuck it in the frig for a little while.

Now keep in mind as well that this is a new die and it seems to be sizing tight like minimum SAMI tight.
 
When I use sizing die wax (when it is an easy resize I use Vaseline) I put some in the palm of one hand and rub my palms together. Then I roll the case between my palms, making sure I take my finger and thumb (which also have
lube on them) and apply lube to the case neck and shoulder. Having too much lube can cause divots in the brass. Personally I only use sizing die wax when resizing cases to a different caliber. For normal sizing I use Vaseline. I have not stuck one yet. I have made a lot of 260 Rem brass out of 308 Palma brass. This was back before Lapua made small primer pocket 260 Rem Brass.

As important as the lube is, making sure the cases are clean.

Jeffrey
 
I've only had trouble sizing rifle cases twice. The first time it was a bad die and the second time it was a bad chamber in the rifle. I'd look carefully at any marks left on the brass and also take some measurements before and after sizing to see if anything stands out.
 
If the die is new, it may need to be seasoned with some extra lube. I get pretty liberal with lube on the first half dozen rounds in a new die and find they smooth out pretty quick. You might try a few heavily lubed cases, particularly the body. If you die is "dry" and you are skimpy with the lube, you may never get it to smooth out.

In my experience the hotter it is the better my Imperial Wax works.
 
Was using a new sizing die tonight and it was real tough sizing this brass. I am using Hornady Unique sizing lube which I have been using for a while with good results. But this was really sticking in the die upon removal.

Question: Would the sizing lube be less effective if it was warm, high 90s today so it had a little liquid on the top? I just mixed it all up and went straight to sizing maybe I should have stuck it in the frig for a little while.

Now keep in mind as well that this is a new die and it seems to be sizing tight like minimum SAMI tight.
What are your before and after numbers at the case shoulder and the .200 datum?
Perhaps this new die is grossly undersizing. Take some measurements and report back.
J
 
Did you clean the die with Hoppe's or another solvent?

Many new dies are protected with a dry protective film that needs to be removed.

The die was cleaned very well with Bore Tech Eliminator then inspected with a bore scope to make sure it was clean.
 
If the die is new, it may need to be seasoned with some extra lube. I get pretty liberal with lube on the first half dozen rounds in a new die and find they smooth out pretty quick. You might try a few heavily lubed cases, particularly the body. If you die is "dry" and you are skimpy with the lube, you may never get it to smooth out.

In my experience the hotter it is the better my Imperial Wax works.

It is a new die so I was lubing them a lot, enough to put divots in the shoulders. The die looks great inside. I have about 50 cases through it and it isn't getting easier.
 
How old is the "brass"? Hard, needing annealing? Imperial Sizing Wax WILL get the job done.
Dents in the shoulders from too much lube/wax? First firing WILL blow out the dents.;)
 
What are your before and after numbers at the case shoulder and the .200 datum?
Perhaps this new die is grossly undersizing. Take some measurements and report back.
J
You may be a little over my head on this but I'll give you what I can. Using the Hornady comparator the pre-sized cases are 1.5555 after sizing they are 1.551 - 1.553 I'm getting variation there that I don't like. Case at the shoulder is .460. Case at the base is .470. Case neck is .285 before sizing it is.295.

Just measuring the die and comparing it to another I have of the same caliber Die A is .450 Die B is .452.

These are 6.5 Creedmoor dies.
 
How old is the "brass"? Hard, needing annealing? Imperial Sizing Wax WILL get the job done.
Dents in the shoulders from too much lube/wax? First firing WILL blow out the dents.;)
Brass has been loaded maybe 3 time and is annealed with the AMP after every firing. You are right the dents blow right out but they do cause a few minor issues with bolt close and inconsistent pressure?
 
Is it possible I have this die pushing the shoulder back further than I think it is? I'm trying to get it back to 1.553 but I do have some ending up at 1.551 and others at 1.553.
 
If its only 0.002 and you are annealing, I wouldn't think it is the shoulder. I agree that you should give Imperial Wax a try. It has worked the best of anything I have ever used.
 
You may be a little over my head on this but I'll give you what I can. Using the Hornady comparator the pre-sized cases are 1.5555 after sizing they are 1.551 - 1.553 I'm getting variation there that I don't like. Case at the shoulder is .460. Case at the base is .470. Case neck is .285 before sizing it is.295.

Just measuring the die and comparing it to another I have of the same caliber Die A is .450 Die B is .452.

These are 6.5 Creedmoor dies.
I’m always the minority but this is how I sketch it up,
notice the die on the right is sizing much more to get the datum back enough to chamber smoothly.
Plus it stiff go through the die
J
 

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The die was cleaned very well with Bore Tech Eliminator then inspected with a bore scope to make sure it was clean.

You should break the die in. Lube a case and run it into the die part way. Then pull out and relube the case. Run it in a little deeper. Repeat until the cases size easily.
 
The die was cleaned very well with Bore Tech Eliminator then inspected with a bore scope to make sure it was clean.

I don't believe Bore Tech Eliminator is a good choice for cleaning new die since it's water based and might not remove any petroleum based preservative in the die. Also, C4 can leave a "sticky" film if not completely removed. Hoppe's or a similar solvent would be a better choice.
 

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