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Sizer with and without bushing ( Advantage ? )

Is their an advantage to having a full length die without the neck bushing or with it? I can see having just the neck bushing die should you not want to full length size but if you full length size the case and neck all the time would their still be some advantage in having both dies and creating another step to size the neck after you full length sized the case? Do they both size the neck to the same length?

Thanks,
Dan
 
I kind of like a die that's in the middle. The Forster Shoulder Bump/neck size bushing die. It has bushings for neck sizing and has a "shoulder area" in it that pushes the case shoulder back the amount you desire. The rest of the case below the shoulder/body junction is unaltered. Makes it a simple process. No more need to F/L size cases that get a little "stiff" to chamber. Just use this die every time and it's all handled.

Can be used with and without an expander ball on the de-priming rod.

Not outrageously priced either.
 
At some point you will still need to F/L size depending on what your chamber looks like... I have a Forster Bushing Bump neck die for a 6.5x284 and it works fine until the 3rd firing , at that point you can shove the shoulder back all you like the brass still won't chamber nicely... It needs the base brought back a thou.

Some chambers may be tighter , in that event I suppose the bushing bump would be fine.

In the case of my 6.5x284 i use both a redding body die to get the base where i want it and the forster bb neck to take care of the necks and shoulder bump ( the body die sizes the base to my liking before it bumps the shoulder back)
 
I seem to never be able to get good run out using bushing dies. I have grid all the tricks to reduce run out. For me buying Forster FL and sending it in to have the neck honed out to my desired diameter always seems to fix my problems.
 
dtucker said:
Is their an advantage to having a full length die without the neck bushing or with it? I can see having just the neck bushing die should you not want to full length size but if you full length size the case and neck all the time would their still be some advantage in having both dies and creating another step to size the neck after you full length sized the case? Do they both size the neck to the same length? Thanks, Dan

The advantage to having a F/L die With Bushing capability is that the entire case is brought back into its designed dimension for consistency, over and over, and bushings are used for fine tuning the load along with seating depth.
 
You can have it both ways with a Redding Type "S" F/L die and a set of Skips die shims from Sinclair. Remove the decapping stem and ball, use it as a full body die. Or replace the decapper and a bushing to size the neck. For neck only sizing, buy a set of die shims. Keep the die set for F/L and insert a shim or two under the die lock ring, and you have a neck only sizer.
 
Outdoorsman said:
dtucker said:
Is their an advantage to having a full length die without the neck bushing or with it? I can see having just the neck bushing die should you not want to full length size but if you full length size the case and neck all the time would their still be some advantage in having both dies and creating another step to size the neck after you full length sized the case? Do they both size the neck to the same length? Thanks, Dan

The advantage to having a F/L die With Bushing capability is that the entire case is brought back into its designed dimension for consistency, over and over, and bushings are used for fine tuning the load along with seating depth.
+1 Later! Frank
 
If you want the best of both worlds, and don't mind paying a custom die from Warner tool co is the best solution i am aware of, they are pricey.
But with the exchangeable neck/shoulder bushing you an adjust neck tension, and they work your brass to a minimum.
Can also be used for several calibers if you buy extra body and neck/shoulder inserts.

They are a work of art, but you will need to send in fired brass to get it made for your chamber and it is big so it uses a 1 1/4-12 thread.
Like a Rock chucker without the normal thread insert.
Will not work with a CO-AX.

There is a old review of it somewhere on the main site here.
 
I don't understand the question...I might be over simplifying it though. A die with no bushing sizes the neck to the size the die or to the size of the expander ball (working the brass twice, once to size down and then again to size up to the ball). With a full length die you get the size of the neck bushing and just manipulating the brass once (assuming you pull the expander ball, which most people do).

So for functionality and flexibility why wouldn't you want a FL neck bushing die, assuming you want to FL size?
 
After reading the post after mine (that I have deleted) and rereading the OP. I think that I may have misunderstood the question the first time around. If the question is whether there are advantages to having both FL dies that take bushings, and those that are one piece that do not, I would say yes. One particular situation favors the one piece die that has the neck sizing built in, and does not take bushings, that is when you are going to re-turn necks. In that case, the one piece die will reach all the way down to the shoulder, which the usual Wilson style bushings cannot do.There are bushing dies that have their own style of bushings that include the shoulder, and if you have one of those, then there is not particular advantage to having a one piece die. I should add that if you do not change what size busing you size with, and you have a one piece die made to that specification, then you will probably end up with the straightest sized brass of all, even better than a FL bushing die.
 
Boyd, am I reading from your post that there is no advantage to partially resizing necks or at times resizing to the shoulder is necessary?
 
I have read that some feel that there is an advantage to partially sizing necks, and I suppose that if I jumped bullets when loading for my bench rifles that there might be something to be gained by way of better centering of the front of the round in the chamber, but that would have to be verified at the target, and I think that some things are done because someone is just sure that it will help, but without actual proof by testing. On the other hand, that is one of the great things about hobbies;we get to do them the way that pleases and makes sense to ourselves. Short version, if your groups get smaller by doing a thing, then it is correct.
 
BoydAllen said:
I think that some things are done because someone is just sure that it will help,

Don't overlook Gale McMillan's blunt statement when talking about barrel break-in/cleaning "Monkey See, Monkey Do".

Same applies to this discussion as well. People tend to copy what successful shooters do to their rifles and ammo but don't always realize that the success is often in the hands of the shooter rather than the "objects".
 

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