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Single outlet Line Conditioner for Sartorius Scale.

this lists the types of UPS's and how they work. They can get very expensive.

Types of UPS Systems | Eaton

There are three major types of Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) system. Before you buy, compare the features of each and select the types best suited for your needs.
tripplite.eaton.com tripplite.eaton.com
 
Thanks to all that responded. I wanted to know what others were using, and you gentlemen came through.
 
This is what I use.


Pretty robust unit, likely overkill, but it works for me.

Edit to add: If I had to do this again, I think I'd opt for a small lead-acid battery (motorcycle or lawn/garden type; less than $50) and a small smart trickle charger (probably around $20.) Besides being substantially cheaper, it also offers the capability of loading while power is out (which is becoming more common with Pacific Gas and Electric in California.)

As to G&G's post below, operating at different voltages does not necessarily mean it is accurate or consistent with the changes in those voltages. You'd need to test your particular scale to see.
 
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I know the old RCBS units were very forgiving in terms of voltage they can run on. They will run on anywhere between 9-16 volts, with 12 being pretty optimal. I don't know what your scale operates on but like Dusty said, you can measure its output voltage and polarity. Polarity is very important. Hook it up backward and it'll kill the scale before you can blink.

That said, a 12v dc power supply like this one will run a chargemaster for weeks on a charge. Plug n play...but check voltage and polarity. This one can charge while in use, too.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
I know the old RCBS units were very forgiving in terms of voltage they can run on. They will run on anywhere between 9-16 volts, with 12 being pretty optimal. I don't know what your scale operates on but like Dusty said, you can measure its output voltage and polarity. Polarity is very important. Hook it up backward and it'll kill the scale before you can blink.

That said, a 12v dc power supply like this one will run a chargemaster for weeks on a charge. Plug n play...but check voltage and polarity. This one can charge while in use, too.
Click to expand...
That is good information,
Thank you

My experience is confusing because the Chargemaster (on a different outlet but same breaker) is much more prone to drifting and wonky behavior than the Sartorius. Both have similar platforms (1.5 inch thick granite) and relative placement in my reloading room. All due diligence has been done with draft control, lighting, antistatic steps (dryer cloth), and distance from other electronics. It is like the Chargemaster is more susceptible to voltage changes, and I thought it would be the other way around........any thoughts?
Both units are about 9 years old, and like I said before they both have functioned very well until @ 6-9 months ago
 
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Dusty Stevens said:
One option is to plug your wall plug into a battery pack that has a 110v outlet on it. Not sure if you have the entris or GD scale but for the straight battery option you look at the voltage out of your wall wart and the polarity and buy a cord and battery pack that matches. Its talked about on here quite often
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Would this same advice apply to my situation with a separate (and more susceptible) charge master and a separate sartorius?
Thanks for any advice.
 
My house is off grid, runs on lithium solar batteries with generator back up. The generator is rarely used. I use two charge master lites when throwing powder charges for most of my bolt actions. Never had a problem. That being said I’m guessing I shouldn’t need devices to protect or regulate power flow, I do have a surge protector on the system as a whole and between the outlet and my charge masters. I’m not an electrician, this is all assumption. I’m I assuming correctly or should I be using a dedicated DC source?
 
Dkk37058 said:
Thanks Dusty here’s a picture of my wall plug in
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Cool! You won't over do it with a 12v power source. Check the actual output voltage of your wall wart. I bet it's unregulated and fluctuates a lot with no load. Id try to one I linked above. Check polarity but I bet it's right too. Hard to beat that little power supply, at any price.
 
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