for what its worth--i was skeptical of the keypads for a long time but finally bought one. I have two cannons with keypads that ive had a couple years and have had No problems at all.Mulligan do you know if Cannon still makes safes with the old type combination locks, I am very leary of the key pad type. My next door neighbor at work asked me to move something for him with the forklift, he had me put two of the key pad type safes in the dumpster. He said they had ben fixed numerous times and were more trouble than they were worth. They weren't gun safes and it was several years ago, so there may have been improvements.
https://www.cannonsafe.com/digital-vs-mechanical-locks/Mulligan do you know if Cannon still makes safes with the old type combination locks, I am very leary of the key pad type. My next door neighbor at work asked me to move something for him with the forklift, he had me put two of the key pad type safes in the dumpster. He said they had ben fixed numerous times and were more trouble than they were worth. They weren't gun safes and it was several years ago, so there may have been improvements.
you can get in but you have to contact the company. id rather have the old style tumbler but i think now they are quite a bit more expensive.Is there a way to get in if the key pad totally fails? My old Browning needs no battery it is old style and it is fool proof.
Yes, you simply need another keypad of that brand. My locksmith carries them on his truck.Is there a way to get in if the key pad totally fails? My old Browning needs no battery it is old style and it is fool proof.
Don't fall into the fire rating trap. I seriously doubt you would pay the kind of money a UL72 (fire endurance) rated safe would cost you. The listed fire ratings are overblown and essentially meaningless. Burglary is 8 times more likely than a fire.The main threat my valuables face is fire damage, second is theft. The one thing I noticed is that Cannon, Liberty, and other run of the mill safes produce their fire ratings based on 1200 deg F. Then their safe bodies (the weak point) are on 12 gauge steel and their doors have no plates which is all very easy to cut through.
My Steelwater safe is rated for 2 hours at 1875 deg F. So what would that be at 1200? 3 hrs+?... It also has a 1/4" steel plate on the door with 18 locking bolts 1.5" thick and 9 gauge steel body. All for the price of what you would pay for a mid to upper level Liberty safe. Much higher quality too. Door locks up tight as can be with zero play and tight seams to deter pry bars.
So just because you have a safe, doesn't necessarily mean your valuables are "safe". Stay away from 30 minute fire rated safes. Might as well just buy a steel box with no rating because there's not much difference. Buy the best fire rating you can afford with a high security rating. It's a once in a lifetime purchase if you buy a high quality safe. Cheaper safes will give you trouble and only offer your valuables minimal protection. If you value what you put in your safe, it's best to spend the extra money on something that will be an impenetrable fortress against theft and fire.