Some say no, because there is no turning back. Some say ok because it helps your accuracy giving tighter groups.
What do all of you say. ?
What do all of you say. ?
Should I Moly my bullets ?
- Thread starter Remington243
- Start date
I have read that the moly gets deposited only in the beginning half of the barrel and not totally coating the whole barrel. It gets wore off even before reaching and exiting the muzzle. What do you think about that theory ? And do you think that swabbing the barrel with molly is a good idea ? That sounds like it would apply the moly more evenly.
Tested moly in a few guns. No discernable improvement and lots of extra work. No more.
A good thorough cleaning is needed to go back and forth between moly coated bullets and uncoated bullets, but you can go back to bare bullets after trying it.
A good thorough cleaning is needed to go back and forth between moly coated bullets and uncoated bullets, but you can go back to bare bullets after trying it.
Rem , if you look down the muzzle of my Palma Rifle you will see the Moly on the lands, BEFORE , I clean and I clean after every match. And Moly coating does make cleaning easier. I have also used HBN and run a test where I swapped back and forth from Moly bullets to HBN bullets on the one target. Well I did not see any difference in POI, but that is my current barrel, who's to say what happens in another barrel. When cleaning, I use a bronze brush dry for a few wipes and you will see the Moly dust bloom out of the muzzle. Then I just clean as per usual and I know my first shot will be on call. I try not to let the round count go past 50 before I clean.
Urban myth that Moly coating was to enable you to shoot hundreds of rounds before cleaning, guys that did this in their Palma guns found out the hard way. I have not had any increase in accuracy BUT what I have noticed was that the SD & ES figures improved. My take on it is that coating whether it be Moly or HBN seems to smooooth out the highs and lows , but it's just a theory and one I cannot prove. I can't really see any benefit to swabbing a barrel with Moly but it probably won't do any harm.
regards
Mike.
I got a new 6.5x55 barrel and used only Moly coated 130grs Norma Diamond Line until recently. I was told that it was recommended to use only moly or uncoated bullets.
So I had to test if my rifle was sensible to switching between coated and uncoatd bullets without a thorough clean between.
So I loaded alternately 130grs coated and 156grs uncoated Norma Oryx (bonded hunting bullet).
Loading sequence. Alternately coated and uncoated in 5-round mag, 1 uncoated i chamber.
It resulted in these two groups, 100m indoor. Sandbags front and rear
So my rifle (Sauer 200 STR) is not picky in this respect.
So I plan to take my range rifle out hunting if this behaviour continues - using coated on the range and uncoated for hunting.
So I had to test if my rifle was sensible to switching between coated and uncoatd bullets without a thorough clean between.
So I loaded alternately 130grs coated and 156grs uncoated Norma Oryx (bonded hunting bullet).
Loading sequence. Alternately coated and uncoated in 5-round mag, 1 uncoated i chamber.
It resulted in these two groups, 100m indoor. Sandbags front and rear
So my rifle (Sauer 200 STR) is not picky in this respect.
So I plan to take my range rifle out hunting if this behaviour continues - using coated on the range and uncoated for hunting.
Thanks guys, its all good info. I think that I will reframe from Moly coating, for now.
This is often true where you go into moly haphazardly. Without a deliberate cleaning plan, moly layers like smearing shingles in the bore, eventually reaching a point of degrading results due to constriction. By this point, you're done as you'd only destroy the bore trying to get it out. Those successful with moly continually manage buildup with regular use of JB compound. The bore is still committed to moly, but they mitigate layer buildup.
I'm surprised anyone still uses moly. There are better coatings.
IMO, WS2 (tungsten disulfide) is the best coating, as it cleans out without a special plan, and truly does not affect MV over uncoated.
It serves only to temporarily extend the point of copper foul out.
Moly does change MV as it's flashing off cools the charge. The pemo test above was not valid as there was moly present, and even reapplied in the bore with his shooting.
The adage 'there is no turning back' kinda played out here. If he was looking for an improvement with that testing, he would never find it.
If he ever wanted to truly go back to uncoated load development with that bore, he couldn't. It's too late. He could never get all the moly out -without ruining the bore in the process. Well, what if you find your bore doesn't like moly? Better consider it.
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Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
+1 on Mike's comment. I'm in the NO crowd as I've seen once you're IN with a barrel, there's no turning back and that barrel is committed for the reasons Mikecr mentioned. Besides, what a messy messy proposition as I've watched others do it and later regretted the move.
Alex
Alex
I'm convinced Moly coating improves my group size not because it does anything (good or bad) to my barrel, but because it gives more consistent bullet seating and (possibly) better bullet release. I wet SS clean my brass but I hate handling them individually more than necessary, so brushing the necks, wiping lube inside the necks with a Q tip, and similar stunts are NOT on the list of things I'm willing to do.
The Moly coating is applied in a batch process and does the job of lubricating the neck/bullet interface quite well.
Of course, some folks apply Moly dry and make a mess in their shop and often on their bullets. I've seen some coated bullets which looked as though the coating recipe got mixed up with the "breaded shrimp" recipe, all fluffy and rough. Often the dry method produces a bullet which leaves black marks on anything it touches, including the throat and barrel and I suspect the bad rap Moly sometimes gets comes from poor coating techniques.
Here's how I do it. I put 100 or 200 bullets in a bucket and degrease them with Simple Green and boiling water. Then I put them in a Walmart apple sauce jar with a 1/4 tsp of moly dust and water just to cover. I tumble them on a cheap Harbor Freight rock tumbler for 90 minutes.
Then I dump them into a strainer placed over a recovery bottle so I can save the juice for next time where I add about 1/16 tsp additional moly dust. I rinse the bullets off and the excess moly juice goes down the drain. The mess is still there but it goes down the drain, not into your lungs and all over everything like the dry method does. Any moly on tools or your hands will rinse right off with water, usually without using any soap.
Then the coated bullets get dumped into a paper towel lined metal pan where I shake them back and forth to dry and polish them. This takes less than 2 minutes. A change of paper towels and the same movement under a heat gun for 1 minute drives any moisture out of the hollow points and further polishes the bullets.
When done they are shiny and you can't rub the coating off onto your fingers. Neither do I find any build up in my barrels after many thousands of rounds. I clean after every shooting using regular cleaning procedures using nylon brushes rather than bronze. An oily patch, a dozen strokes with a nylon brush soaked in Hoppes, then a wet patch, a few dry patches, and finally a lightly oiled patch does the job. Black juice comes out of the muzzle with the wet patch following the bushings, but that's about it. A look with a bore scope reveals a clean bore.
The coating process is easy and not messy. The results logged in my extensive data base show a definite improvement in ES, SD, and group size using moly bullets. The cost is nearly zero too.
The Moly coating is applied in a batch process and does the job of lubricating the neck/bullet interface quite well.
Of course, some folks apply Moly dry and make a mess in their shop and often on their bullets. I've seen some coated bullets which looked as though the coating recipe got mixed up with the "breaded shrimp" recipe, all fluffy and rough. Often the dry method produces a bullet which leaves black marks on anything it touches, including the throat and barrel and I suspect the bad rap Moly sometimes gets comes from poor coating techniques.
Here's how I do it. I put 100 or 200 bullets in a bucket and degrease them with Simple Green and boiling water. Then I put them in a Walmart apple sauce jar with a 1/4 tsp of moly dust and water just to cover. I tumble them on a cheap Harbor Freight rock tumbler for 90 minutes.
Then I dump them into a strainer placed over a recovery bottle so I can save the juice for next time where I add about 1/16 tsp additional moly dust. I rinse the bullets off and the excess moly juice goes down the drain. The mess is still there but it goes down the drain, not into your lungs and all over everything like the dry method does. Any moly on tools or your hands will rinse right off with water, usually without using any soap.
Then the coated bullets get dumped into a paper towel lined metal pan where I shake them back and forth to dry and polish them. This takes less than 2 minutes. A change of paper towels and the same movement under a heat gun for 1 minute drives any moisture out of the hollow points and further polishes the bullets.
When done they are shiny and you can't rub the coating off onto your fingers. Neither do I find any build up in my barrels after many thousands of rounds. I clean after every shooting using regular cleaning procedures using nylon brushes rather than bronze. An oily patch, a dozen strokes with a nylon brush soaked in Hoppes, then a wet patch, a few dry patches, and finally a lightly oiled patch does the job. Black juice comes out of the muzzle with the wet patch following the bushings, but that's about it. A look with a bore scope reveals a clean bore.
The coating process is easy and not messy. The results logged in my extensive data base show a definite improvement in ES, SD, and group size using moly bullets. The cost is nearly zero too.
billlarson
"Hold Into The Wind"
GO TO THE NORMA WEBSITE.......... THEY DID SCIENTIFIC TESTING....... NOT OPINIONS....... BUT FACTS..........
bil
Thats what I was trying to say about smoooothing out the highs and lows. Nice one Mozella !
I have tried HBN and couldn't get it to stick, I still use the dry Moly coating in a tumbling machine I built myself and don't find it particularly messy. Tried the wet method and could not get the results that other have had.
Mike.
Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
I love scientific proof articles... and the ones that follow to debunk those FACTS. It's like experts, there are always experts on both sides on the argument that say their "facts" are gospel. Oh yeah bring on the facts and the Scientists!
Alex
I shot in Scotland in 98, owner of the rifle I used, Charles Young, swabbed the bore with moly grease first thing before the match, and utilized a greaser. When the bullet is pushed into the the greaser nose it puts a ring of grease at the end of the case into the bullet. Each round was greased before it was shot.
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There was a 'fad' down here years back with Fullbore Shooters. Back then we used 144 grain issued 7.62 Mil Ammo. The shooter would put a dab of molydisulphide grease on his glove hand,sort of around the base of the little finger as he was about to load would place the projectile on the grease and make a fist curling the little finger over the bullet and rotate the round by it's base, thus putting a smear of grease on the projectile. Some swore by it, others thought it a passing fad, nobody does it now.
Mike.
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