Sheared Seized Remington 700 Screw

[tunacan]

My Buddy gave me a Rem 700 Action with a seized/sheared screw on the base mount. Whoever had this before him literally butchered it and messed it is big time.

I tried to drill it out so I could remove it with an ez out, but I think the screw is made from some material foreign to planet earth. None of my bits will touch it.

Any ideas on what to do? I was going to weld the action and retap the screw hole.

Here is a picture.

 

[butchlambert]

I use solid carbide endmills.

 

[tunacan]

Is there a cheap alternative?

 

[Gundoktr]

Have him take it so someone who knows what they are doing before they phuque it anymore.

 

[butchlambert]

Is there a cheap alternative?

What is cheap?

 

[jscandale]

Looks like the cheap alternative has already been applied. :'(
To fix it properly now, like Butch said, carbide end mill and weld the hole, redrill and tap. Oy vey, what a mess!

JS

 

[butchlambert]

I have actually never had to weld and retap. I've been able to remove them and not mess up the threads.

 

[tunacan]

I know that cheap is a relative term. Cheap to me is being able to buy what I need to fix this one vs buying a cheap $300 30-06.

I don't need the action, but free is free. I thought it would be a good project to tinker with, but Im highly frustrated at this point.

I've never not been able to get a seized screw out and I havent jacked up threads either.

I think that with all of the drilling that had been done on this it has hardened

 

[butchlambert]

Oh well! It appears that this is not your MOS. It will be a 'ell of a lot cheaper to have it done than buying the correct tools. It runs about $25 for a solid carbide end mill. They will cut out drill bits, but they are very brittle. at least 50% chance of ruining one doing the job. If friend or family want it done, they buy the end mill. After buying your end mill, you will need a mill and vise to hold it soundly. A drill press will destroy the carbide end mill instantly. Another possibility is taking it to an EDM shop and having it burned out.
Last suggestion, sell it cheap and let the next guy worry about it.

 

[Jim See]

Hell yes I got a cheap way, buy a one piece rail and use 3 screws in it.

and another cheap way, throw the rusty crap in a scrap pile and forget about it, won't cost you a dime.

my guess is the screw bottomed out on the barrel tennon when originally installed thus the problematic removal.

I have dremmeled a small slot in the top of the broken screw, installed a driver bit whacked it with a hammer and turn them out.

that one looks completely molested at this point. good luck

 

[jscandale]

That was the next thing to think of: EDM
I suggest the possibility of welding up the hole after the screw is extracted because it appears that the messed up hole is deep, but it's really hard to tell from the piture from that angle.
It appears that the action is heavily rusted in some areas too.

JS

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

To salvage it, send it to a gunsmith. May cost a few bucks but in the long run, worth it. If it is in fact FUBARED then drilling it out, re welding, bore and re tap are options. Let us know.

 

[tunacan]

I was thinking of just running 3 screws in it as well with a one piece base.

There is no rust on it. Just a little left over milk shake or something.

I will let you know how it turns out.

What kind of weld will be best?

 

[butchlambert]

I would not weld it. If you use a 1 piece base with three screws, why weld it.

 

[tunacan]

Good enough. Thanks for the info.

The base actually covers it up 100%

Now to find someone with an EDM that will do it at a reasonable price.

 

[jscandale]

I think the biggest problem that you will run into with EDM is finding one who has an FFL or who is willing to take the project, since it is a serialized receiver, unless you have a friend with an EDM.
One other option you may have, is to burn it out with a TIG welder and then add some filler rod to the hole. Since the hole is right over the threaded portion of the receiver, you really have to be conscious of what happens when you burn through the other side.
I think we all assume this won't be a bench rest action, so if it ain't exactly blueprinted wen you get done, so be it, it will still hold a barrel just fine and in ten years it will all be forgotten other than the rust.

JS

 

[shortgrass]

Heck,, a 5/32" 7018 rod would fill that hole in no time!

 

[bricktop]

You might try some heat, they could have put red locitite on it, which might have been what kill't it in the first place. I'd drill it out a bit bigger and try an ez-out again with a torch to warm it up.

 

[mao0720]

Butch, just curious, why would a drill press destry a carbide endmill so quickly?

 

[butchlambert]

Too much run out in the quill and chuck. It would also be difficult to hold the receiver rigid enough.