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seeking bluing info

Recently given J.C. Higgins mod. 30 that was rescued from house fire. REALLY bad shape. But WOW does it shoot! I want to reblue the BBL & associated parts. Oxpho blue seems to be excellent product for this purpose. After watching a few internet vids. I'm not yet comfortable w/ the application procedure. No problems w/ prepping the steel parts. Has anyone used Oxpho or perhaps another product w/ outstanding results?...... I realize this is a CHEAP ol' rifle but I'm sure my grandson won't care if he gets the finished product for his B-day ;) Thanx, Dale
 
Interested to hear about this subject as well.

I just picked up a Colt King Super Target wheel gun that's a little rough looking (spots of rust), but it's by far the most accurate pistol that I've ever fired. And the trigger... never felt trigger as sweet as this on a wheel gun. I'm very happy with my purchase (It was CHEAP!), but it's ugly as hell in its current state.
 
Be careful with any fire damaged firearms, if the wood is scorched to the point of being burnt, the metal may be suspect.
If you have shot it and still have all your parts intact, all is good...
I think that the Vans bluing from MPI is as good as it gets for any bluing not done in a tank..
 
PREACHER, Thanks for the words of caution. I can appreciate what you're trying to convey regarding safety. The little rifle was slightly scorched on one side & didn't appear to have been thoroughly cleaned in years. More exterior & mechanical damage done by someone who attempted to "save" the rifle prior to coming into my possession. I've chkd. out the Vans bluing & like the fact that it isn't a salts based product. I've used 44/40 for yrs as a touch-up (salts based) but didn't feel it was of adequate durability. If anyone has had experience w/ Vans & can pass on tips for application it would be much appreciated. X-RING Thanks, I'll keep your recommendation in mind.
 
I've used Oxpho & it isn't bad for a cold blue. Big trick is to have the metal super clean, degrease it at least a couple times. Also if you're using fine steel wool to buff in between applications, you MUST de grease the steel wool. It has a light oil treatment to keep it from rusting. You can get a fairly nice job and it holds up OK, best part is that you can touch it up if necessary.
 
Thanks Larry, I'd forgotten about the rust inhibitors in steel wool. You just prevented me from making a dumb mistake. It's the little things that can make large differences in the outcome. ;) ...... Having never attempted to blue an entire rifle I'm hoping to get more valuable input from those who could contribute. Thanks to all so far!
 
It sounds like you are trying to use a cold blue process. I have only used those products for touch ups. If you feel comfortable doing the metal prep your self, you could do that and then just drop it off, or send it to a gunsmith and have it blued. It should not cost to much and will give you a better looking and more durable finish in my opinion
 
I have used Mel Doyle at Mel Doyles Gunshop 401 Ellis Lane Plummer Idaho 83851 Ph. 208-686-1006. I disassembled and did the metal prep and he did a great job at a great price (lower because I did the prep) and his turnaround time was 3-4 days. I would use him in a heartbeat if I ever were to blue a gun again.
 

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