See If you can figure this one out...... got me stumped

[riflelooney]

I been shootin long range for 35 yrs, had lots of guns several wildcats and am pretty well versed with light gun smithing....but this one has me stumped... I buy a used savage 12f 6.5-.284... mount a leupold 6.5-20 on the existing farrel 20 moa base ...get to the range and bore sight....nothing doin...shots gonna b 6 feet over the target at 100. with the scope bottomed out...back home...throw weavers on it and burris pos aligns.... put -10 up front and 0 on the back....looks good and bore sight down the bore at 25 yards but 5 min up from bottom of the scope shows zero at 25 yards done this many times before and gets me close...now remember got the target center in the bore and crosshairs dead center as well at 25....bang 2 feet low....WTF?? ok run abot all the elevation out of the scope and still about 2in low... run it out to 100 and down about 3 min or so..... so cant figure it out....the reciver would have to be grossly out....but why alignment thru bore and and scope even at 100 looks good then you shoot and it takes 40 min up to get you there????? got me

 

[itchyTF]

Bent barrel, bad crown or something loose?

 

[xpilot]

The Burris insert should be matched up, ie To raise POI, +insert in rear and matching -insert in front (same values of inserts: ie +10&-10) to lower POI, - insert rear + insert front.

 

[fredhorace77]

i do have two savages and both required. 035" shims under the front base...on top of that the holes are not parallel with the bore so i must use windage adjustable rings...its a pain but i do eventually get it to sight in. ive seen this problem quite often on savages

 

[jhord]

Had this happen once on a .223 Savage. The bore of the barrel was curved. When this happens it will bore sight fine but shoot in some crazy other direction. Savage replaced the barrel and then it was in the ballpark. Then I replaced the junky stamped recoil lug, and then everything came into alignment.

 

[M-61]

Wild shot......20moa base can be mounted backwards? You would now have a minus 20 minutes of an angle.

 

[22BRGUY]

If it was boresighted as you said, gotta agree that somethings gotta be loose.

 

[CatShooter]

The Burris insert should be matched up, ie To raise POI, +insert in rear and matching -insert in front (same values of inserts: ie +10&-10) to lower POI, - insert rear + insert front.

The Burris inserts do NOT need to be matched. It is the total amount that counts and that can be split, or all at one end.

You can have a pair of +20/-20 at the front, or you can have +10/-10 at the front and -10/+10 at the rear - the effect is still 20 moa.

 

[nosualc]

I don't know that this is your problem, but read this thread:

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3792539.msg36212897#msg36212897

-nosualc

 

[Preacher]

You can not put two +'s together and expect them to do what needs done..

 

[doc gordon]

check this site for a take off barrel !

 

[M-61]

Did you send the barrel to Savage anyway? I would like to know if it is bent.

 

[jhord]

Folks, the key here is he's bore sighting it and everything lines up- but when fired, it hits way low. Trust me on this one, it's the barrel bore, it's curved internally. If it was the receiver threading, barrel nut, anything else, he wouldn't be able to bore sight it. My .223 barrel was so far off I couldn't even get on paper at 25 yards, even though it bore sighted fine!! Reason being some light can still make it in straight fashion through the bore, making it appear that it and the scope are aimed at the same spot. When in reality, that's not true. It drove me crazy.

 

[Nomad47]

I had a set of mis-marked Burris inserts - drove me crazy until I figured it out. The OP needs to use a + and - pair as mentioned earlier. AND measure, the + half should be thicker than the - half.

If POI is below POA, then the scope needs to be lowered and the +half needs to be on the bottom half of the scope tube at the rear ring, the opposite on the front ring.

 

[xs hedspace]

Gotta be curve in the bore. Boresighting is just using the chamber at the back, and the muzzle at the front to center the target. If the bore has a curve downward near the muzzle, it will throw the bullet downwards as it leaves the barrel. Also a bad crown will throw the bullet to one side, as in the pressure will be released on one side of the muzzle, and if the other side of the bullet is still in the bore, the pressure will throw the bullet towards the short side of the crown. Less of an effect than the bore curve problem. PS magazine had a test where the crown was cut like 15 degrees off, and the impact point was moved 2-3" at 100 yds.

 

[swt5]

The Burris insert should be matched up, ie To raise POI, +insert in rear and matching -insert in front (same values of inserts: ie +10&-10) to lower POI, - insert rear + insert front.

The Burris inserts do NOT need to be matched. It is the total amount that counts and that can be split, or all at one end.

You can have a pair of +20/-20 at the front, or you can have +10/-10 at the front and -10/+10 at the rear - the effect is still 20 moa.

You can not put two +'s together and expect them to do what needs done..

I had a set of mis-marked Burris inserts - drove me crazy until I figured it out. The OP needs to use a + and - pair as mentioned earlier. AND measure, the + half should be thicker than the - half.

If POI is below POA, then the scope needs to be lowered and the +half needs to be on the bottom half of the scope tube at the rear ring, the opposite on the front ring.

I think there is some confusion going on here.
Burris inserts come marked "0" on 2 halves, "10+" on one half and "10-" on the other, "20+" on one half and "20-" on the other. Within a given ring, you are supposed to use either 2 of the "0"'s or a plus and minus of whatever number you choose. You do not, however, have to use the 10's on the front ring and 10's on the rear ring unless you're trying to achieve 20 moa's compensation by setting them up diametrically opposed in tandem. The 20's can be used with the zero's to achieve the same thing...
After a bad experience, I now open every package of Burris rings and ensure the proper inserts are present before taking them home. It's not uncommon to find a package with 3 +'s and only 1 -'s etc etc and I imagine there are a bunch of ill fitting scopetubes in mismatched rings out there somewhere...