Mulligan
Silver $$ Contributor
Agree with that, bottomed out in the pocket is what you want, and I also agree with forgetting about numbers. The OP is uniforming his primer pockets and that is excellent. Sometimes it isn't simple, though. One could, in some circumstances find that when bottoming the primers, primers could end up too deep, or not deep enough, with primers standing proud of the case. These things rarely happen, but they do, and one of those happened to me. If you religiously seat till the primers bottom out and they end up too deep or not deep enough, something is going on with your primer pocket depth, and some of the reasons could be: not uniforming primer pockets or having a primer pocket uniformer that is not dimensioned properly (I had that happen). Once you get an issue with the seated primer depth, you need to start systematically figuring out why your primer pockets are too deep, or not deep enough.Been using this outstanding tool for about 25 years now. I have loaded thousands of rifle and pistol cartridges with it and never had a slam or misfire.
Seat the primers by feel so they bottom out in the primer pocket and are slightly below the case head. It's that simple, no need to get into measurement stuff.
Also, press the handle slowly apply steading and even pressure, do not force it or try to speed seat primers with this tool. As you lock the case down, I found that applying a slight pressure to the case while rotating the shell holder assembly to lock the case in place aids in aligning the case with the primer cup.
It never ends.I seem to remember that in a post, Alex Wheeler said that he seats primers by feel. Just sayin'...
Soooooooo no thread on weight sorting primers next??Guys will keep asking this question a hundred times with new post. What does it take to make guys believe what the top shooters and manufacturers tell you. A lot of dense people. I see where some companies are now selling adjustable primer tools for over $250. I guess if your OCD you need one. After a lot of post it would seem that a lot of OCD reloaders don't even have what sounds like a quality rifle.
I USE THE "KISS" PRINCIPAL!!! There is a point of overkill!!! You have to set tolerance standards or you will waste a lot of money with very little gain!! And there are other ways to make the ignition of the powder more consistent!!! That being said, seating and crush is not as critical as the flash holes being uniform and having a slight chamfer on both end of the hole is way better than having burrs and sharp 90° edges!! It creates better laminar flow of the flash flame!!! The slightly less primer pocket residue and less scorching is a testament to this exercise!!! And the paper punching proves its worth of using this process!!!Many, not all, of the folks that are trying to set records at distance and those winning long range BR are putting in the work to do these sort of things. It has been hashed out a bunch, but let me remind everyone, there is a fella selling $700.00 primer seaters that are very nice and another fella selling accoutrements for said primer seater for another few hundred bucks. Additionally there is an outfit that sells a quite accurate gizmo to measure pocket depth and seated primer depth. Now I do not own all of the above mentioned tools, but I do own the Accuracy One primer gauge and consider it and other tools they sell indispensable. The fella that makes these might just know a thing or two about shooting small?????
In my testing, all things ignition MATTER.
Carry on
CW
Do you cut the pockets to a uniform depth?I USE THE "KISS" PRINCIPAL!!! There is a point of overkill!!! You have to set tolerance standards or you will waste a lot of money with very little gain!! And there are other ways to make the ignition of the powder more consistent!!! That being said, seating and crush is not as critical as the flash holes being uniform and having a slight chamfer on both end of the hole is way better than having burrs and sharp 90° edges!! It creates better laminar flow of the flash flame!!! The slightly less primer pocket residue and less scorching is a testament to this exercise!!! And the paper punching proves its worth of using this process!!!
Designing and installing million dollar air handling systems in reducing environmental breathing exposures for floor workers in a leads acid battery plant requires a major understanding of air and fluid dynamics!!! 1. Knowledge of particulate velocity (lead requires around 700ft/sec or the speed of a 22 rf). 2. Understanding of duct diameter and pressure and effects of static drop from branching, sweeping, and long runs!!! 3 Summation of all branching and calculating main duct sizing!! 4 Determine total flow and how many time the air exchange occurs in a given work area in a given time frame!! 5 Understanding of fan design, fan curves, and belt horsepower!! One project required a 150 hp motor, driving a backwards incline fan, moving 750000 cubic feet a minute, at 12in H20 negative pressure, at 700 feet per second turning the air in a very large work area 4 times an hour!!! With the 2000 6" x 6' tyvec sock bag house, fan, motor, 54" main duct, duct work installed above roof airhook, support structures, under roof ducting, and utilities, THE PRICE TAG: 1.5MM!!! I also supplied the final drawing for bidding, and the contract vendor had to provide approval from their engineers!!!
Do I have to go any further to explain that laminar flow of the flash is more critical than totally perfect seated primers!!! Turbulent flow kills consistent ignition!!! K I S S!!!
The Sinclair seater is a dream tool!! Personally, feel is more important than primers setting at an exact depth!!
To get really uniform pocket depth, I lightly file the base until it is flat around the primer pockets on virgin brass!! In the primer pocket extrusion process at the factory, the punch can cause a slight depression or pulls the brass back upwards causing a slight mound!! The code stamping also shifts brass around!! Use light, but firm, short strokes into the cutting edges of the file while firmly holding the base flat on the file, and rotating slightly while stroking!! Draw back keeping the base flat on the file will clear filings and burnish the brass!! Indexing the base before the next stroke will greatly reduce tapering or ramping of the base!! Holding the brass as close to the file will reduce "Dancing" which defeats the purpose of flat filing casing rounding of the base!! Strokes are around half to an inch!!! Observation is critical, and you can see the irregularity of concave and convexing regions around the pocket while trying to achieve a full milled finish around the pocket region!!Do you cut the pockets to a uniform depth?
What do you chamfer the flash hole with on the pocket side? From your line of work, education , and background, what is your experience on optimum chamfer for efficient flame flow? I’m super curious
Thanks
CW
I always assumed that if the anvil legs protrude some amount past the edge of the cup, No matter how hard you push the anvil leg can only be pushed in till it is even with the cup edge. This means if you seat by feel they are all the same within some unknown tolerance of the stack up of cup and anvil dimensions. Pushing hard beyond this could only flatten the cup dome if that's possible. I still use my Lee hand seater I bought for about $7 in 1970. Both my rifles shoot great considering they are for varmint hunting (under.400" groups).After going full circle, Id recommend not touching the pocket and seating them by feel. Never did beat that for accuracy. Tom thinks we need a seater that seats by force not depth. I dont disagree. Theres a bunch of primers that crush easy and you need to feel those. Even with that tool you wouldnt pick up on those. Some things just need human touch.
After going full circle, Id recommend not touching the pocket and seating them by feel. Never did beat that for accuracy. Tom thinks we need a seater that seats by force not depth. I dont disagree. Theres a bunch of primers that crush easy and you need to feel those. Even with that tool you wouldnt pick up on those. Some things just need human touch.
You shouldn't ought to be making sense when you are "talking". It might get you run up before the equipment committee.I always assumed that if the anvil legs protrude some amount past the edge of the cup, No matter how hard you push the anvil leg can only be pushed in till it is even with the cup edge. This means if you seat by feel they are all the same within some unknown tolerance of the stack up of cup and anvil dimensions. Pushing hard beyond this could only flatten the cup dome if that's possible. I still use my Lee hand seater I bought for about $7 in 1970. Both my rifles shoot great considering they are for varmint hunting (under.400" groups).
Question: Do you chamfer the flash hole with your center drill every time you clean the pockets, or do you find that it's only needed as a one time operation?I use a Sinclair pocket uniform tool!! No tool handle or power tools!! Use light, but firm, twisting motion back and forth, feeling in uniforming cuttng of the pocket!! This eliminated irregularities of concentrisity!!! Then, I can't remember if it is a No1 or No2 center drill with a stop collar is used to chamfer (touch more than break edge) the sharp edges around the flash hole left by the pocket cutter!! Once again, by hand, feeling and eliminating unwanted excessive brass removal!! FIRE FORM THE BRASS COMPLETELY WITH HIGH PRESSURE LOADS!! ONCE AND DONE FIRE FORMING!! With the base being totally flat, the brass stretched region will be more uniform and concentric!!!
I concentrate on clean pockets and checking case overall length!!Question: Do you chamfer the flash hole with your center drill every time you clean the pockets, or do you find that it's only needed as a one time operation?
BTW: I find the No1center drill works for the for the SPR's and the No2 for the LRP's!!!![]()
I believe the primer charge explodes, it doesn't burn???The debate to full seat or seat by depth is interesting!!
My take, with studies in thermodynamics, chemistry, physical chemistry leads me to conclude full seat with light crush!!! WHY??????? Look at your primers, some the region of the wafer is blocked for a straight shot at the flash hole by the anvil and some the remaining region that does have a straight shot, will not take that path!!! This is designed in the primer for the duration of flaming through the flash hole using Brownian motion and Entropy!!!!
Seating high increases the volume in the primer pocket/primer region! More volume, less pressure and heat!! Less pressure means less wafer flares and speed passing through the flash hole! Plus the randomness motion (Brownian Motion) of the flares bouncing around in the larger volume mean even less flares will find and pass through the flash hole!! And, some of those flares could be caught or trapped between the primer wall and pocket corners or under the anvil feet or pads greatly reducing the flaming of duration!! This is a prime example of Entropy (heat lose from a random system and/or surrounds, also called environment), the 2nd law of thermodynamics!!!
Knowing about Entropy, the best solution is to minimize the volume and the distance those flare bounce around in!! Much like a ping pong ball dropped on the table and lowering the paddles towards the table!! As the pp ball bounces between table and the paddle, it increase in frequency and speed as the distance between the paddle and table decrease!! Yes, use Brownian motion to your advantage!! The chances of more flares passing through the flash hole increases by reducing the distances of ricochet and increasing its speed!!
Firm seating will increase the likelihood of even more flares passing through the flash hole!! This is good too a certain point!! Too much force (crush) can result in actually cracking, fracturing, and/or fragmenting the wafer!!! This would cause random larger chucks to fly around giving up flares directed at other chunks basically equalizing the heat energy and causing a cool ignition of the powder!!! Delayed ignition of broken wafer chucks also contribute to cool powder ignition!!!
Now, the ideal seating is much better and reduces the burn rate while increasing the heat!! That wafer does not instantly ignite from the physical/chemical reaction (P CHEM)!! Much like a match, you swap it across the friction surface, it does not instantly light!!! Why, the term Latent heat is involved!!! Latent heat is the result of the delayed reaction of phase change and the addition heat required for a phase change to occur!! Pulling a hot cup of water out of the microwave at the right temperature, drop a spoon it or stir it, will cause a violent, short term boil!! Water at the freezing point but still a liquid, will turn to ice by stirring. The compounds (wafer, match head) have to absorb a certain amount of heat (indothermic reaction) before the reaction (phase change given off heat or exothermic reaction) can occur!!! Yes, the pressure you use to strike the match is also the similar to the high impulse pressure the firing pin has on the wafer!! Pressure and heat go hand in hand in millions of events in our lives and are some of the basic fundamental elements for study in the 1st law of thermodynamics (conservation of heat, heat is energy) especially in deriving and using gas laws!! With this information, if the wafer is slightly compressed, it is more dense and already loaded with some pressure and stored heat (stresses and strains)!! This reduces the latent heat time making the wafer hotter and faster than wafer not being loaded!!!
Another mechanical system that we studied using the 1st Law of Thermo was the combustion engines!! A Prime example of the latent heat is the firing of the spark plug before top dead center (BTC) in an engine!! If the electric spark/fuel air mixture was instantaneous, the engine would knock really bad or the engine would reverse rotation!!! Look at some of the slow motion videos of the spark (BTC) and the delayed fireball creating thrust as the piston breaks past top dead center!! A FIREARM IS A COMBUSTION ENGINE (ONE CYCLE POWER STROKE) IN THE STEADY STATE OF THE FULL COMPRESSION POSITION (TOP DEAD CENTER) WITH A DIFFERENT IGNITION SYSTEM, SUPER HIGH OCTANE FUEL/OXYGEN MIXTURE, AND A ROD LESS PISTON!!!
WITH THIS BEING STATED, THE FEW GRAINS OF POWDER BEING STRUCK BY THE FLARES ALSO EXPERIENCES A LATENT HEAT DELAY!!! But, the latent heat delays are in fractions of a millisecond for the wafer and powder!! But in the short duration of the pressure time build up, it is noticeable at the start of the pressure curve (the left side bell lip being almost flat, non linear, and then the chain reaction of the powder burn exponentially diverging away from the x-axis with respect to time)!!
Added note:
Look at the primer pocket base of those reformed/decapped cases!! Look for the clean regions where the anvil feet or pads were!! If you can see them, you have fully seated the primers!! But, you have to ask yourselves, did I damage the wafer with too much crush?????? Experiment with crush and look at what the carbon residue in the primer pocket is showing you along with the target!!!
I believe the primer charge explodes, it doesn't burn???