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seating on the lands and how to determine the correct length?

I make a baseline round to MaxCOAL based on measure with an R-P tool, then check baseline with a comparator for logged MaxCBTO. I only do this for reference, as there is no real value in it other than description of my later chosen seating, or land progression to others.
WOODS posted pics/desc here: http://www.reloadersnest.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9027
 
Seating on the lands and how to determine the correct length?

The correct length is measured On Target. Bullets will be going in the same hole or close to it.

Here's one way.

Use a Wilson Micrometer Seating Die: http://www.lewilson.com/stainlesssteelmicrobulletseater.html

Set up the seating micrometer, so that when your cased bullet is seated [to the shoulder] and twisted in the barrel stub your gunsmith gave you, you get a very faint circular mark. That's your starting point.

Adjust the Micrometer so that the bullet is seated progressively longer in .002" to .003" increments off the faint mark measurement. Make up 10 rounds each in a variety of longer measurements.

Go to the range to find out which measurement is correct for your barrel.
 
"Buy you a Hornady OAL gage and spend more time firing your rifle at the range instead of conducting meticulous CSI investigations over candelabre. Once you have used the Hornady tool to come up with the measurement of where contact is made in your chamber bore, simply use that number and subsequent shorter OAL lengths to determine what your rifle prefers for best accuracy. "

I have used this technique, and load off the lands .020 thou
I thought I should try longer bullets, or a shorter jump like .015 and .010.

is this correct, or should I go farther out like a .030 or more?
 
Well i appreciate all the help i went to 1000YD club match in tulsa yesterday and shot well for my first time at 1000yds I realized something there at the match, well two things one getting a good ability to read the wind will be a much better help shooting long distance than worrying about tighter groups past half moa. And if your loads are so hot that your case heads are blowing off the brass, and you have to drill them out of the bolt. you need to rethink your reloading techniques because your not only being reckless to yourself but the ones around you. Interesting conversation i had with a gentle men i had yesterday about why he didnt care for a certain brand of brass. Not to be off subject but i tried to different techniques on the seating depths on loads i took to the match and there was only one point difference between strings. So my first comment reflects my thoughts on the subject for now.
 
I like the JB weld method. Take a fired (unprimed) case and check that it chambers easily in your firearm. Rough up a bullet a bit with a file where it will be in the neck. Also rough up the inside of the neck. Mix JB weld and smear it inside the case neck and barely seat the bullet in the neck with your fingers. Carefully insert in chamber and close bolt. DO NOT open bolt for about 24 hours. This cartridge will give you length to slight touch of the lands. You can set you seating die to it, without doing a lot of math.

Of course as the lands wear they will move forward and you need to do it again.
 
stool said:
its all about a repeatable number for your ammo on your gear in your gun ..as was pointed out.

the stoney point tools are the simplest and easiest to use ..in my opinion...tho i do make my own cases.

I have tried to figure out what tap size to use to match the stoney point tool, it is clearly not available at ACE Hardware. . Please share what you are using to make your own cases. Thanks.
 
Adding to the confusion, consider that the rifling does not intersect the free bore with abrupt, sharp corners. The transition from free bore to rifling is tapered and gradual. So any marks you collect on the bullet may not be precisely accurate. I've read about seating bullets .00x into the lands. Frankly, with the differences in bullet length dimensions (often as much as .005 within any given lot of bullets) and the gradual development of lands beyond the free bore I seriously doubt the accuracy of those claims.
 
atlatl said:
stool said:
its all about a repeatable number for your ammo on your gear in your gun ..as was pointed out.

the stoney point tools are the simplest and easiest to use ..in my opinion...tho i do make my own cases.

I have tried to figure out what tap size to use to match the stoney point tool, it is clearly not available at ACE Hardware. . Please share what you are using to make your own cases. Thanks.

When you highjack a thread asking for that kind of information you run the risk of your question becoming lost in the shuffle. It's always best to start your own thread when you have a question that isn't directly relating to the subject.
However, a 19/64 drill bit and a 5/16x36 thread tap (you won't find it at ACE Hardware) wlll do the job for you.
You may have to find the tap on line and order it from that source.
 
easily ordered from TRAVERS TOOL travers.com

Lapua40X said:
atlatl said:
stool said:
its all about a repeatable number for your ammo on your gear in your gun ..as was pointed out.

the stoney point tools are the simplest and easiest to use ..in my opinion...tho i do make my own cases.

I have tried to figure out what tap size to use to match the stoney point tool, it is clearly not available at ACE Hardware. . Please share what you are using to make your own cases. Thanks.

When you highjack a thread asking for that kind of information you run the risk of your question becoming lost in the shuffle. It's always best to start your own thread when you have a question that isn't directly relating to the subject.
However, a 19/64 drill bit and a 5/16x36 thread tap (you won't find it at ACE Hardware) wlll do the job for you.
You may have to find the tap on line and order it from that source.
 

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