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Seater Dies with bullet loading window?

Of course you get to decide how you use your tools, but Wilson does not recommend using them that way. Many of us do it the way that it turns out that they recommend. Stack the bullet onto the case, holding it so that your thumb and finger overlap the bullet and the case neck, and slide the die down over.

Ive done it both ways but havent done many with it yet.

Why dont they recommend it? I cant see a problem if your using boat tail bullets, now with flat base i could see some potential problems .
 
I have found that switching to boat tails has helped my seating the most. My 5 thumbs are difficult to work with....I usually drop 2 or 3 flat bases before I can get the ram up....and when successful in getting one there I usually manage to get pinched...
 
I got so i like the Wilson arbor press dies. Slide the case in from the bottom the drop the bullet in from the top then push the seating stem assembly in.

I got so i like the Wilson arbor press dies. Slide the case in from the bottom the drop the bullet in from the top then push the seating stem assembly in.
You must be using a different Wilson in line seater than me. I don’t see how this would even be possible as the top threads on and the seating stem is smaller then the Bullets.
 
You must be using a different Wilson in line seater than me. I don’t see how this would even be possible as the top threads on and the seating stem is smaller then the Bullets.
Mines just the standard non micrometer seater. The whole stem just slides out an a 30cal bullet will just slide through .
 
Ive done it both ways but havent done many with it yet.

Why dont they recommend it? I cant see a problem if your using boat tail bullets, now with flat base i could see some potential problems .
They said that taking the stem out every time would tend to wear the bore that it rides in, belling it at the top. I don't know about the stainless, but the regular dies are made from soft steel that is unhardened.
 
I bought the RCBS window dies and used them for prairie dog loads. I found that there was .003 to .008 run out while using the RCBS window seater dies. These dies are from the 1980's and do not know if that has improved. What I do know is that Ponsness Warren made (makes ?) a window seater die that was way better ( .000 to .003) with less run out. The prairie dogs do not care about run out, but when you are shooting short range BR, 600 yards, and farther you will see a difference in group sizes. Back in the 80's and 90's I was shooting NBRSA, and that was when I really started to get concerned about my reloads for everything I loaded for. If you are not concerned about run out so be it, but if you want to compete in BR matches or long range competition you will need to cover all bases, if you want to win, and do it consistently. DJB
 
I was running into damage ends on few bullets with Lee die. I am using my 204 ruger and Berger bullets. But I have a rcbs 204 ruger Competition set on it's way. I hope the new die wi fix my trouble.
 
I was running into damage ends on few bullets with Lee die. I am using my 204 ruger and Berger bullets. But I have a rcbs 204 ruger Competition set on it's way. I hope the new die will fix my trouble.
You MAY have to modify the bullet seater cup or maybe the newer does have been changed to work with the VLD style bullets?
 
I did concentricity testing on both of these dies (and some other brands also) and found like you did that the Redding has less run out but then after I did the accuracy testing I decided that it did not matter. Even so, I use the Redding for the long range application.

For what it is worth, there were other things that that I found that influenced run out besides just the dies; the press, O ring under the die, seat-rotate-seat, expander ball vs mandrel, etc.

I am aware of the gazillion or so other factors affecting run out. Over a period of two months, I shot 200 rounds of each, alternating shots on side by side green meanie targets at 100 yards. All brass (Lapua turned and trimmed exactly the same, same lot of Berger target bullets, all powder weighed on balance beam and then weighed on electronic scale, etc., neck tension same). Other than checking concentricity, target results were my deciding factors.
 
I like the RCBS window seater dies so much that I eventually bought one for every major caliber I own. I have a concentricy gauge & I verified that they seated within the same tolerance as my Redding dies. If you find the run-out too high for you application I might suggest replacing the bullet guide. It's inexpensive & readily available in various calibers. It just drops in.

BTW: Note that the early RCBS window seaters have click adjustments on the micrometer. These are not as flexible to convert to other calibers. The newer dies have a smooth "friction" adjustment & conversion to other calibers is easy with just a change in bullet guide & seating stem. A new stem is only needed if you are changing bullet diameter.
 
I think you should get a bore scope and look inside the dies. They are probably worn out:rolleyes:
 
So IMHO, it boils down to what works best for YOU and YOU'R application.
Got a shooting buddy that keep records of EVERY shot he's ever made.
While he writing down his notes, I'll be burning off another 200 rounds from my M1A. Love him no matter what.:cool::cool:;);)

That's funny because that's like my brother, who I shoot with all the time. I'll be burning through my rounds while he's writing down data and I always get on his case joking he's running out of daylight LOL.

But in his defense, he's got some incredible luck with his cold bore shots. He claims it's his data, but I know it luck lol
 
A following question on seater dies with side window.
I have what appears to be RCBS seater with window. It does not have the micrometer top like advertised now. It is 7mm and works with 280 Rem length cartridges.


What is the extra part on the side. It is marked 7mm too. It is not the same as the normal sliding insert.

And more window seaters L.>R
Old Vickerman for 7mm
Old Weatherby for 3006
Old ?? for 22 calibre

Dad and I have used these a lot going back to the 60s and 70s. They have sat since the 80s.
 
I have one in .22 caliber made by Fremont Tool Works. I have not used it in a long time. The next time I load .223/5.56 I will compare it to my Redding Competition seater.
20201015_115544.jpg
 
I used to use the Ponsness Warren CAL die I think it was called for .308 and .30-06 loads in my MiA's and
my Garand. I suspect that my loads were not benchrest quality using that type of die, but they were plenty accurate enough to ring a gong offhand at 200 yds and more with open sights. I also had the Vickermans
in a few other calibers. Sure beat pinching my pinkies when seating hundreds of rounds.
 
I have a new RCBS 204r competition die set with the micrometer top and bullet window. Makes very accurate hunting ammo, I will get parts to at least convert it for 17rem use. Should use it for 22-250 also.
 

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