Sealed Primer Pocket 223 Rem

[Paul's Black Rifles]

Geco brass is very sturdy. You will need to back off any load data at least a full grain from what you read for LC or commercial brass loads. It is worth the efforts. Once you have it prepped the next time will be a lot easier.

I've never had a problem with Geco brass. I prefer IMI but I reload everything at .223 level.
Paul

 

[Jeff Porter]

@Scttschnd - uses Geco with 77/80 gr for highpower. Typically load 23.2 gr of 8208 either those bullets. With the Geco brass he ended up down arounf 22.4gr with the same velo as 23.2 in LC brass. YMMV

 

[M-61]

I am sure the RCBS swaging tool is not as good as the Dillon tool.

What are you basing that on?

 

[IndianCent]

Geco brass is very sturdy. You will need to back off any load data at least a full grain from what you read for LC or commercial brass loads. It is worth the efforts. Once you have it prepped the next time will be a lot easier.

Good information, thank you. I am working on my very first 223 reload and appreciate the input. I removed the military crimp on the first shell and noticed 3 cut outs (slots), can they stay or do I need to cut them out as well?

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Good information, thank you. I am working on my very first 223 reload and appreciate the input. I removed the military crimp on the first shell and noticed 3 cut outs (slots), can they stay or do I need to cut them out as well?
View attachment 1392463

No all you need is that bevel on the edge,just make it look like a regular case.
Your pic looks good.

 

[RegionRat]

I removed the military crimp on the first shell and noticed 3 cut outs (slots), can they stay or do I need to cut them out as well?

No, just try to remove the interference where a new primer goes in. You don't need to erase all evidence of the crimp. This does take a little trial and error to learn on your own, so don't be shy.

This is where I usually give my "get a mentor" talk, but I will spare you this time.... LOL

With a good mentor, you would be getting a hand holding demonstration. On your own, you can do this but you will likely make a few more mistakes. That is okay as long as you don't try and mangle a primer into a hole that hasn't been detailed.

Take some time and think about getting a pin gage or primer pocket specific gage.

 

[hornetguy]

Good information, thank you. I am working on my very first 223 reload and appreciate the input. I removed the military crimp on the first shell and noticed 3 cut outs (slots), can they stay or do I need to cut them out as well?
View attachment 1392463

those three cutouts are where the brass was displaced to form the crimp. They actually push brass out over the edge of the primer to hold it in place... as long as you have removed that pushed over brass you should be good to put another primer in its place.

 

[IndianCent]

Thanks again, I will continue to clean out the primer pocket and resize the shell.

I am planning to use bullets up to 55 grain to start with, some have flat bottoms instead of a slight bevel for easier entry into the shell. I have a full length Hornady 2 die set. Do I need to buy an expander and crimp die as well?
I have come accross that same question with my 22 Hornet shells as well, the flat bottom bullets lead to case neck damage.

 

[IndianCent]

No all you need is that bevel on the edge,just make it look like a regular case.
Your pic looks good.

Glad to hear, appreciate it.

 

[IndianCent]

No, just try to remove the interference where a new primer goes in. You don't need to erase all evidence of the crimp. This does take a little trial and error to learn on your own, so don't be shy.

This is where I usually give my "get a mentor" talk, but I will spare you this time.... LOL

With a good mentor, you would be getting a hand holding demonstration. On your own, you can do this but you will likely make a few more mistakes. That is okay as long as you don't try and mangle a primer into a hole that hasn't been detailed.

Take some time and think about getting a pin gage or primer pocket specific gage.

Thanks, I bought the RCBS Brass Boss it has a lot of the primer pocket tools, but I also use a tools to get into the corners of the primer pocket. It has very pointy end. Does the picture I showed suggest more work is needed or is the shell good to go?

 

[IndianCent]

those three cutouts are where the brass was displaced to form the crimp. They actually push brass out over the edge of the primer to hold it in place... as long as you have removed that pushed over brass you should be good to put another primer in its place.

Thanks, I will try a new primer soon.

 

[markm87]

With these triple stake crimps, I just us my Lyman VLD neck chamfer hand tool and twist them off. Norma factory .223 has been coming with this crimp recently.

These crimps and nothing major and quickly removed with minimal effort.

 

[IndianCent]

With these triple stake crimps, I just us my Lyman VLD neck chamfer hand tool and twist them off. Norma factory .223 has been coming with this crimp recently.

These crimps and nothing major and quickly removed with minimal effort.

Sounds good, looking forward to seating the first primer.

 

[IndianCent]

Resized and primed, the primer went in smooth. Looks like it will work fine.

 

[hornetguy]

Thanks again, I will continue to clean out the primer pocket and resize the shell.

I am planning to use bullets up to 55 grain to start with, some have flat bottoms instead of a slight bevel for easier entry into the shell. I have a full length Hornady 2 die set. Do I need to buy an expander and crimp die as well?
I have come accross that same question with my 22 Hornet shells as well, the flat bottom bullets lead to case neck damage.

No, you don't need to expand the case mouths. Use a de-burring tool to lightly chamfer the inside of the case mouth.... just enough to remove any micro burrs, and to put a very slight bevel on it. This will allow the bullet, even plain based, to enter the mouth of the case.
Nearly all rifle reloads rely on the tightness of the sized neck to friction hold the bullet in place.
If these are to be fired in an autoloader, you might consider a light crimp on it after the bullet is seated.
I use a Lee factory crimp die on mine, and it works wonderfully well.
If it's for a bolt action, I wouldn't crimp them at all.
Same thing goes for the hornet.... use the de-burring tool to put a light chamfer on the inside of the case mouth, and seat the bullet slowly.... you'll get the "feel" for it pretty quickly.

 

[IndianCent]

No, you don't need to expand the case mouths. Use a de-burring tool to lightly chamfer the inside of the case mouth.... just enough to remove any micro burrs, and to put a very slight bevel on it. This will allow the bullet, even plain based, to enter the mouth of the case.
Nearly all rifle reloads rely on the tightness of the sized neck to friction hold the bullet in place.
If these are to be fired in an autoloader, you might consider a light crimp on it after the bullet is seated.
I use a Lee factory crimp die on mine, and it works wonderfully well.
If it's for a bolt action, I wouldn't crimp them at all.
Same thing goes for the hornet.... use the de-burring tool to put a light chamfer on the inside of the case mouth, and seat the bullet slowly.... you'll get the "feel" for it pretty quickly.

Thanks, I really appreciate your input. I was hoping that was the case. I had trouble with the 22 Hornet and decided to get some more insight before continuing.
Would you say that lubricating the inside of the case neck is helpful? If so, is regular case lube the right choice for that?

 

[hornetguy]

Thanks, I really appreciate your input. I was hoping that was the case. I had trouble with the 22 Hornet and decided to get some more insight before continuing.
Would you say that lubricating the inside of the case neck is helpful? If so, is regular case lube the right choice for that?

No, I would not lube the inside of the case neck. You don't want it to be "slippery" because it is supposed to grip the bullet enough to prevent it being bumped back into the case. There has to be dry friction there to hold the bullet securely.

If you wish, you can use a lube inside the neck during sizing, to help prevent stretching the case neck back out with the expander ball of the die, but the lube should be cleaned off before loading...

this is the same reason you don't want lube on the outside of the case after loading. The case has to "grip" the walls of the chamber when fired. If it cannot grip the chamber wall, it can increase pressure against the bolt face... or it will at least exhibit signs of excessive pressure... either is not a good thing.

 

[SSchnd]

I have been using GECO ( just like the OP photo) ammo brass for a few years now for for across the course match to 600 yds. My head stamp was a T and a 556x45. Not GECO stamped. But it has the same 3 point staked primer crimp. I just used the small primer pocket cleaning took in my Lyman case prep took to remove the stakes. I chucked the bit in the drill and just touching the tool it nicks the three stakes off the pocket lip without removing any case head metal. Save me from having to swage the pocket like a circle crimp.
Too add on what Jeff said above, we did a H2o capacity test on this brass and it is more like Lapua where you will need to reduce the load charge and work up.
This is very heavy walled, consistent weight brass with nice primer pockets and flash holes look machined but punched.
I have 5 firings on my current lot of brass in use. Prepped and ready for a 6th firing.
Very much like this brass. I removed the primer sealant during prep, stake crimp removal and stainless steel wet cleaning.
PS I do anneal after 3 firings.

 

[IndianCent]

No, I would not lube the inside of the case neck. You don't want it to be "slippery" because it is supposed to grip the bullet enough to prevent it being bumped back into the case. There has to be dry friction there to hold the bullet securely.

If you wish, you can use a lube inside the neck during sizing, to help prevent stretching the case neck back out with the expander ball of the die, but the lube should be cleaned off before loading...

this is the same reason you don't want lube on the outside of the case after loading. The case has to "grip" the walls of the chamber when fired. If it cannot grip the chamber wall, it can increase pressure against the bolt face... or it will at least exhibit signs of excessive pressure... either is not a good thing.

Thank you, that all helps to understand the process. I will now go ahead and load powder and bullet. I should soon see how the reloads do at the range.

 

[IndianCent]

I have been using GECO ( just like the OP photo) ammo brass for a few years now for for across the course match to 600 yds. My head stamp was a T and a 556x45. Not GECO stamped. But it has the same 3 point staked primer crimp. I just used the small primer pocket cleaning took in my Lyman case prep took to remove the stakes. I chucked the bit in the drill and just touching the tool it nicks the three stakes off the pocket lip without removing any case head metal. Save me from having to swage the pocket like a circle crimp.
Too add on what Jeff said above, we did a H2o capacity test on this brass and it is more like Lapua where you will need to reduce the load charge and work up.
This is very heavy walled, consistent weight brass with nice primer pockets and flash holes look machined but punched.
I have 5 firings on my current lot of brass in use. Prepped and ready for a 6th firing.
Very much like this brass. I removed the primer sealant during prep, stake crimp removal and stainless steel wet cleaning.
PS I do anneal after 3 firings.

I agree, the brass seems to be of really good quality. I have a swage station on the RCBS Brass Boss, so it's there already and I use it lightly. I have to read about annealing. I bought a tool for the 22 Hornets but not yet for the 223. It sounds like a commonly used procedure, so I have to learn more about it. Thanks