Sea foam for bor cleaning

[Prose]

Didn't see that on the label, front or back

 

[Prose]

Regarding the top engine cleaner that is based on a conversation I had with their engineer about the difference between it and the deep creep. The reason their website doesn't specifically say the top engine cleaner is recommended for guns is because it needs to be followed by a gun oil for long term protection. Outside of that it's a wonderful cleaner.

Project Farm and some other youtube product testers have repeatedly demonstrated that seafoam deep creep provides excellent protection and performs at the very top of the pack.

Regarding lucas oil products I think they all suck terribly.

 

[Brians356]

View attachment 1503574

But you said both "these two products are intended for gun care" not just Deep Creep.
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[swd]

SeaFoam won’t touch hard carbon but it will get out softer carbon that other bore cleaners don’t. After my normal cleaning regimen I run a wet patch with SeaFoam down the bore then 10 strokes with a bronze a brush dipped in it. Then patch that out. The before and after with borescope tells me it’s worth it.

 

[Prose]

But you said both "these two products are intended for gun care" not just Deep Creep.
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Ya, perfectly suitable, but with a caveat that affects how it is marketed, which I mentioned.

How many people on here use mobile1 OW-20, Transmission Fluid, and other mixes on their actions and barrels or lighter fluid in their triggers? Should we tell them to stop due to using it for purposes that are not listed on a label?!

If you want to parse words you can contact seafoam yourself. If you want to argue with real experts go log into 24 hour campfire and have at it.

SeaFoam won’t touch hard carbon but it will get out softer carbon that other bore cleaners don’t. After my normal cleaning regimen I run a wet patch with SeaFoam down the bore then 10 strokes with a bronze a brush dipped in it. Then patch that out. The before and after with borescope tells me it’s worth it.

Deep creep works pretty well on hard carbon. About the only thing that works better is abrasives.

 

[BigBolt]

Thinking about using sea foam for bore cleaning. Any one have any advice on using it and the proper way to use it.

I use standard carburetor cleaner it does the best job for carbon removal.

 

[Brians356]

If you want to parse words

Yeah, I want to parse words. Words matter, not least in technical matters. You've explained how your original statement was less than correct, and what you meant to express. You can always go back edit for correctness and clarity, and then I can delete my applicable comments.
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[Fuj]

Not for bore cleaning but if you test Sea Foam against Marvel
Mystery Oil, the MMO wins, and is a hell of alot cheaper. And
wonder why, after all these years that the "Ed's Red" formula
with MMO still works. Other then that, I'm still using "Piston
Clean" citrus, for the real hard carbon.

 

[JMayo]

I have seafoam in my cleaning box. I've found i have to put a bit of oil on the patch also because it doesn't want to go down the bore smoothly aka hard to push the rod and will not come backwards.
It works well for in-between cards cleaning.imo

I'll let it soak for the drive home then let a patch soak in the bore before starting the real cleaning process.
Idk that it makes cleaning easier or faster but i think it does do what other products do cheaper.
I'm tired of paying what the products cost nowadays.
I just got some #9 copper remover and it seems to work well for all cleaning at a much cheaper price. Imo

 

[DGP4]

I tried all the automotive additives as a bore cleaner and none worked as well as old Hoppes No, 9. Bore Tech C4 is by far the best on burnt powder residue and "carbon rings" in my rimfire rifles. If you think about it, we use the term "carbon" pretty loosely. There is no reason that an automotive additive that is effective at removing burnt gasoline residue would work well on burnt smokeless powder residue. Just because they look the same doesn't meant they share any chemical similarity.

 

[jelenko]

I tried all the automotive additives as a bore cleaner and none worked as well as old Hoppes No, 9. Bore Tech C4 is by far the best on burnt powder residue and "carbon rings" in my rimfire rifles. If you think about it, we use the term "carbon" pretty loosely. There is no reason that an automotive additive that is effective at removing burnt gasoline residue would work well on burnt smokeless powder residue. Just because they look the same doesn't meant they share any chemical similarity.

Interesting point.
I've just assumed that what's left is carbon.

In researching what the deposits are that come from burning gasoline, it appears the deposits are primarily carbon. https://axi-international.com/carbon-deposits-what-is-carbon-buildup-and-how-to-prevent-it/

In researching what the deposits are that come from gunpowder burning, here's what I found in an article from the US Naval Institute https://www.usni.org/magazines/proceedings/1879/december/chemical-theory-combustion-gunpowder


The analysis showed that the solid residue was composed of

1. Potassic sulphate
2. Potassic carbonate
3. Potassic hyposulphite
4. Potassic sulphide
5. Potassic hydrate
6. Potassic sulphocyanate
7. Potassic nitrate
8. Carbon or charcoal
9. Sulphur
10. Ammonic carbonate

The gaseous products contain the following gases:

1. Nitrogen
2. Carbon dioxide
3. Carbon protoxide
4. Hydrogen
5. Hydric sulphide
6. Notable quantities (according to circumstances) of nitric oxide and even of nitrous oxide.

 

[K22]

This post is directed to new shooters entering the shooting sports in an attempt to remove the mystery of cleaning a rifle and is offered only as a suggestion for consideration from an old sage.

- Select a solvent that is specifically designed and engineered to clean a rifle bore. Follow the instructions. In my experience, an effective place to start is with a general-purpose gun cleaning solvent like Hoppe's 9, Shooter's Choice, Bore Tech Eliminator, or similar type gun cleaning solvent.

- Clean on a regularly basis. The cleaning cycle effectiveness can vary depending on the cartridge, powder charge, and the usage of the rifle. With some experience you will discover the optimum for your rifles. For me, it's about every 50 to 60 or so rounds.

- Use a quality bore guide. Possum Hollow (old Sinclair) and Dewey are ones that I have used and work quite well.

- Use a high-quality single piece cleaning rod like Dewey or Bore Tech.

- Use cotton flannel patches.

- If you use a bronze brush which I believe greatly enhances carbon removal but that is just my experience, select one that has a looped end and a brass core. The Dewey "no harm" brushes are a good choice.

- Clean the bolt, chamber and the lug areas also on a regular basis. A lug cleaning tool is inexpensive and a good investment and will last a lifetime, but patches butterflied in loop brass jag inserted in a non-rotating handle pistol cleaning rod can work also. Dewey makes a 9" non-rotating inexpensive brass pistol rod that work quite well for this purpose.

- Above all, let your target be your guide regarding the adequacy of your cleaning procedure. Personally, I would avoid harsh and strong chemicals that attack the steel of a rifle bore. I would avoid chemicals that are not designed or engineered for rifle bore cleaning.

 

[Mastershot]

I used seafoam a couple of years back to remove a carbon ring in my creedmor which was so bad it was destroying my brass. Took the barrel off and plugged the barrel tip and filled up to the top and left it for a week. Carbon ring came right out with a brush, the barrel was super clean with a bore scope.

 

[Ccrider]

I have yet to find anything that will remove a true carbon ring without using a brush.

 

[Brians356]

I used seafoam a couple of years back to remove a carbon ring in my creedmor which was so bad it was destroying my brass. Took the barrel off and plugged the barrel tip and filled up to the top and left it for a week. Carbon ring came right out with a brush, the barrel was super clean with a bore scope.

Ok, but there's probably a hundred other formulations that would have dissolved that carbon if soaked for a week.
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[COLT45SA]

Have any of you tried Kreen? It's made by the same people that make Kroil. I've seen it remove hardened carbon in many 60 year old car engine that NOTHING else would touch. Took care of the carbon in my 1927 built 1890 Winchester~!

 

[rijndael]

Have any of you tried Kreen?

That contains MEK ... pretty nasty stuff.

 

[JSH]

Ok, but there's probably a hundred other formulations that would have dissolved that carbon if soaked for a week.
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There in lies a problem with carbon. Must not be many that fish, as some patience when soaking a carbon problem goes a long way. I have put Sea Foam into use a few years ago when on a week long hunt a couple of barrels were carbon fouled and I had not brought anything to address it with me.
I have put other “chemicals” into service with success after soaking.
Squeaky clean is not always good.

I quit chasing my tail on carbon and gilding metal fouling for the most part. Then when I address it I am no all fired hurry either.

 

[M-61]

Ok, but there's probably a hundred other formulations that would have dissolved that carbon if soaked for a week.
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Why not list formulae # 23 & #45 ?

 

[TTE]

Not for bore cleaning but if you test Sea Foam against Marvel
Mystery Oil, the MMO wins, and is a hell of alot cheaper.

Berrymans B12 has gone up in price, I think it's $4.00 now