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Scratches on a barrel

It's gonna depend on how deep the scratches are. Very minor scratches can be polished out with a good stainless steel polishing compound and a soft cotton cloth. Moderate blemishes can be polished out with a non-metalic polishing pad along with a bit of compound . You can get polishing compounds in various degrees of abrasiveness. Even a select grade of grinding compounds (like we used to use to polish valve seats in automobile engines) will work.
Obviously, these techniques work best with the barrel and action removed from the rifle. Once you've got it polished, prepare yourself for future disappointment. The newly polished surface will find a way to inadvertently scratch itself somewhere down the line. ;)
 
If the finish is brushed, try a GREEN Scotchbrite pad. You might want to try to the BLUE one first, as it is less abrasive. But take care! The green one will leave a nice brushed finish on stainless I think. I use it all the time to give a nice brushed finish on aluminum. If your finish is more highly polished, then don't use these pads!

Stainless will scratch easily, but on the other hand, things like the Scotchbrite pad should make it equally easy to polish.

Find a piece of scrap stainless to practice on!!! Maybe someone here has a shot-out barrel they could send you.

Phil
 
Go down to the hardware store and see if you can find 300- 500 "wet or dry " paper. If it's not available there, find it at an abrasives store, maybe at Graingers. Depending on the degree of polish you want you can start with 300 grit and work your way to 600 or even 1200 . Use a shoe shine motion with the sand paper and go all the way around so you get an even polish. If you have a lathe, easy peasy! If you want to use polish compound start with the brown bar (about 300 grit ) and then graduate to gray, then white rouge. You will need a buffing wheel to apply the compound. Keep the barrel moving and don't get it hot. You can find polish compound at an abrasives store or online under abrasives, probably not at your local hardware.
 
320 then 400......problem is knowing when to stop to keep the finish the same grade as the rest of the barrel. I happen to prefer a mirror finish and go all the way 600...1000....1500. All available in an auto supply store that carries equipment for body shops. After the 1500 you have a brilliant finish and can end it with a buffing of brown tripoli followed by jewelers rouge.
You say 'bright polished stainless'....matching so it disappears is the trick. My definition of bright polished is you do NOT see any machine marks. If it's like most barrels 400 should do it. It's easy to get carried away.
Anyway do not sand in the direction of the scratch (providing you can). Across it lightly especially if you can't catch a finger nail in it should be fine. Good luck...you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
With any of the suggestions in this thread, the trick is to make it match the rest of the barrel finish. I'd ask "is the scratch really that bad" but I guess it is to you. Just be forewarned that you could end up with it looking worse after the repair. Not trying to discourage you just be forewarned. The best way is to refinish the whole barrel but that takes time and a lathe. One of the folks who responded warned to not get the barrel hot and I have to mirror that comment. Stainless steel used in barrels is not very hard and when you put a tool to it it always seems to be kind of sticky to me. Practice on something similar before starting and you will have better luck. Then take your time. Good luck to you. I think some of the advice you got here would be better too if you had a picture of the damage to go by:)
 
A small drop of regular Colgate tooth paste on a dampened cleaning patch and some elbow grease will polish stainless nicely and is cheap

Jim
 
Sinclair Int'l sells a product, Iosso Gun Bright Polish. Using 0000 Steel Wool and a soft terry cloth, you can gradually remove minor scratches from the outside of a barrel. It is a soft rubbing compound of a sort that I've heard some guys use to even lap barrels. I bought a new Hart Match Grade barrel a few years ago and was disappointed to see small grooves left by the cutter when the contour of the barrel was done. Using the aforementioned products and some elbow grease, I turned that ENTIRE barrel into a really nice stainless steel shine with little signs of any circular markings left by the cutter. Just takes time and rubbing and that mark with slowly disappear. It had no effect whatsoever on the accuracy of that barrel that shoots nice tight groups that Harts are capable of shooting as long as I do my part. Give it a try and be patient and just keep putting the Iosso on the steel wool and rub until the compound turns blacks, wipe it off and start again. I use the Iosso on all my stainless barrels every once in a while if there is any fading or gunk and that only takes a few minutes and the stainless look is like new. BTW, I suggest staying away from buffing wheels as I accidently created a bigger gouge when the wheel slipped off the barrel and nicked the barrel. The Iosso took that out as well after rubbing by hand for several hours.

Alex
 
I have one of these on my to get list... http://www.longriflesinc.com/products.html


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Teacher, You might be obsessing about your new creation. ( I know I do) Once you've started load development you might be hard pressed to find the scratch :)............... Have you considered bead blasting? Pretty inexpensive and you can use blasting materials as fine as baking soda to coarse aluminum oxide grits. Each giving a different visual, as well as, scratch reducing effect. Continue to have fun & Merry Christmas, Dale
 

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