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scope rings ?

PRW I know but not LR anything. The abbreviations QRW and PRW mean; Quick Release Weaver and Permanent Release Weaver. The QRW rings can be installed or removed without tools while the Permanent rings require tools to install or remove.

Regardless, I don't like the Burris rings specifically because they mask any problems with the rings. Using a rubber bushing to help compensate for ring alignment or shape errors isn't a solution, it's simply a way to cover up the problem so that the shooter THINKS that there isn't anything wrong. But in reality the scope and rifle will still shoot less accurately than if you had lapped the rings properly. Most people don't see a problem because they don't engage in any shooting discipline that requires absolutely consistent accuracy and precision. If you buy the Burris rings you'll know if you've made a bad choice if from time to time the scope rings loosen, or the scope suddenly looses it's ability to track well, or your zero moves from time to time; then you'll know that you should have lapped the rings rather than buying a band aid fix.

You really have no clue what you are talking about! Have you ever used them? The Burris with inserts are my go to rings and have been for many years. Kevlar vest on! Lmao. :D:D:p

Paul
 
Is it difficult to use the inserts ? I mean do I need three hands to hold them in place with tightening the screws ?
 
Is it difficult to use the inserts ? I mean do I need three hands to hold them in place with tightening the screws ?
No. The only minor itch with them is when you tighten them down. I go back and forth, one side to the other, slowly tightening the screws and the scope will still be off level when tight. I unscrew and start over. It usually takes me 2-3 tries.
 
No. The only minor itch with them is when you tighten them down. I go back and forth, one side to the other, slowly tightening the screws and the scope will still be off level when tight. I unscrew and start over. It usually takes me 2-3 tries.
Good advice right there,Josh is spot on .After you do it once it's very simple. Just takes a few tries to get them right.
 
Is it difficult to use the inserts ? I mean do I need three hands to hold them in place with tightening the screws ?
It's worth it to use the rings. You will never get ring marks again and I have never had a scope move. Like Josh said,it takes a little time to get them tightened even but it's worth it. I tighten my scope slightly with one ring to keep it from moving then tighten the other ring so it stays level.
 
what if there is a 1/16th difference between the gap from side to side ? What I mean is how even should they be ?
 
I have used Seekins, Vortex, and Burris XTR rings. I have never had an issue with any of them. I do own an inch lb torque wrench. All of my rings are torqued to spec.
 
I have three rings I can recommend whole heatedly. All have worked superbly and all have never let me down. All have sat upon rifles in calibers with very harsh recoil including 300wm, 300wsm, 338wm, 7mmstw, 12ga sabot slug rifles, three 12ga turkey guns, a 50 cal smokeless muzzleloader, a .50 cal T/C Encore magnum ML, two Marlin 336 L/A in 35 Remington. I honestly can not recommend one over the other as all three worked equally well.

Burris Signature "Z" rings with the synthetic inserts. These are great and the ones I've had for the longest (20+ years) as they are unique in they (unlike all other rings) will never leave ring marks on your scope and the synthetic inserts compensate for any differences in ring heights. I also use the Burris nickle plated scope basis to minimize risk of corrosion. These have been on my slug rifles, belted magnums, and turkey guns. Been on belted magnums, ML's, and slug guns for well over 15 years and never an issue. Also for the last three years on on 12ga 3.5" turkey gun, and one 12ga 3" turkey gun.

Talley one piece alloy rings. Have them on my Marlin L/actions, my T3 in 300wsm, my 7mmstw and again zero issues.

Warne 100% steel rings. Have them on one 12ga bolt slug rifle, NEF 920 single shot 12ga slug rifle and one 12ga 3.5" turkey gun again zero issues. I also use Warne nickle plated basis for anti corrosion reasons.

All are relatively simple to install, and I lock tight (blue) all screws and tighten all screws to factory recommended torque settings with a torque wrench. I also soak all metal parts over night in acetone then 100% clean off all oil or grime etc left over from the manufacturer then promptly assemble.
 
9BA2C811-11E0-4CD9-B7A4-5A0E88479FE7.jpeg Tikka 308 , rail is from Tikka performance with the built in recoil lug and Warne rings.
Scope is a SWFA 3-15x42 Moa reticle/140 minutes of elevation and windage.
J
 

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