Scope moving in rings

[BoydAllen]

IMO with the exception of the Burris rings that have inserts, any scope installation that does not include lapping and/or bedding the rings is improperly done. Sometimes, when rings are lapped to full contact, some material has to be taken off of the cap to allow the ring to be tightened. I have not run into this very often, but it has happened.

 

[josebd]

High or extra high?

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Blame it on junk rings or whatever I say the rings were not torqued properly. If there’s clearance between the bottom and top ring halves
no steel rings in the world would allow the scope to move in that way. Not saying that
that Jim doesn’t know what he’s doing I just can’t see any other reason unless the scope tube has swaged in the rings.

Have to disagree here. Ring slip is exactly why I started lapping everything many years ago. Always torqued to spec with torque wrench.
Steel rings are the worst for slippage and the most difficult to lap true.
I've even had lapped rings slip a bit. Never had a bedded ring slip.

 

[JFrank]

Blame it on junk rings or whatever I say the rings were not torqued properly. If there’s clearance between the bottom and top ring halves
no steel rings in the world would allow the scope to move in that way. Not saying that
that Jim doesn’t know what he’s doing I just can’t see any other reason unless the scope tube has swaged in the rings.

If your talking about me you can get my name outta your mouth
I've mounted enough scopes to know that 20 inch pounds is perfect.

 

[T-shooter]

A simple fix. A drop of Loctite in the top cap. I like to use a TINY drop of slow dry epoxy like JB Weld. It's easy to get the cap off the scope later and I have yet to damage the finish on any of my scopes. I can scratch it off with my fingernail. An alcohol pad will remove any epoxy before it dries if any squishes out. If you leave a gap in the cap/base, you can make slight leveling adjustments later on by tightening/loosening the screws from one side to the other.

 

[Rem6br]

If your talking about me you can get my name outta your mouth
I've mounted enough scopes to know that 20 inch pounds is perfect.

I was referring to the OP ease up a bit fellow.

 

[JRS]

Properly installed well made rings do not need to be lapped.

 

[JFrank]

I was referring to the OP ease up a bit fellow.

Thank you for the clarification
Are we good?

 

[Rem6br]

Yes Sir I’m terrible for proof reading

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ok one more time,do I need high or extra high rings

Does your scope clear the barrel now? Drop some rosin in there and retorque.

Youre asking a question that cant be answered without knowing your scope, rifle, barrel size, current rings, current height, stock style, shooting discipline, etc. or just get extra high and keep moving.

 

[WillyTP]

Properly installed well made rings do not need to be lapped.

I felt the same way, until I lapped a set of panda rings on top of a panda action. Now I don’t even think twice, every set of rings get lapped and scopes bedded in them. It only adds a little time to do and then an overnight wait for the cure. After that I never have to think about it or worry about movement or marks.

 

[JFrank]

Does your scope clear the barrel now? Drop some rosin in there and retorque.

Youre asking a question that cant be answered without knowing your scope, rifle, barrel size, current rings, current height, stock style, shooting discipline, etc. or just get extra high and keep moving.

Dusty,
Would you apply the resin on the treads of the screws or on the scope itself?
Jim
Sorry I miss read that you said -Rosin as a pitcher would use a Rosin bag is that correct?
Jim

 

[Jeff A]

So Burris signature rings with insert will fix my problem?

Absolutely! I use them now on every new application. I chuckle when I look at my ring lapping kits.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I have always used JB Weld to bed my scope rings. Might start using Marine Tex since it flows better and has less shrinkage. But whatever resin or epoxy or cement a person wants to use to create a hold in the rings, be sure to apply a release agent on the area of the scope body that will come in contact with the compound. No release agent on the rings. Makes life a heck of a lot easier when trying to remove it later on.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Absolutely! I use them now on every new application. I chuckle when I look at my ring lapping kits.

I know Burris signature insert rings work, but I would be interested to see how much that insert shifts around POA when tested against another known solid optic in a scope tester with solid bedded rings...of course the optic in the Burris rings would have to be a known solid optic as well.

Not saying they shift or move, would just be interested in the test to make sure of the hold.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Dusty,
Would you apply the resin on the treads of the screws or on the scope itself?
Jim
Sorry I miss read that you said -Rosin as a pitcher would use a Rosin bag is that correct?
Jim

Yes rosin like from a sports store. Just dab it on the rings and tighten them normally. Shooting big boomers you gotta find workarounds.

 

[jds holler]

I can't say that I've bought a pair of Leupold rings lately to know whether or not they're junk. What I have bought several of lately is the Weaver "Leupold type" steel rings. They are very economical, and always gettable on eBay for around thirty bucks.

These rings would clamp any scope tight enough to damage the tube if you wanted, measuring about .070" shy of an inch on the vertical ring dimension. The edges are "broken" or rounded smoothly enough to avoid digging into the tube as long as they are mounted straight and proper. I use an old Weaver steel tube K model scope for the mock-up when I'm mounting, and have never had to lap them in. jd

 

[alinwa]

Until you've mounted a 3 1/2 pound Schmidt and Bender onto a 7lb 338 Lapua Improved you ain't SEEN scope slippage! As Dusty sez.... "shooting the big boomers you gotta find workarounds." And I agree that rosin is normally very effective.

I WILL NOT state unconditionally that Burris Signature insert-style rings always hold.

I epoxy ALL bases down, even Stiller's.....And I lap EVERYTHING. And I've several times degreased everything and forevermore JB Welded the rings right onto the scope tube.

Ya DO what ya's got's ta' DO.....

And BTW removing epoxied bases and rings is easy, even when, like me, one runs the epoxy right down into the 8-40 screwholes.......

I often wish for something stronger than JB or Devcon when assembling big stuff. BIG stuff, braked, is so hard on equipment it ain't funny!

 

[Tim s]

Properly installed well made rings do not need to be lapped.

Baloney. Every mass produced set is off and about 1/2 the custom CNC ones need a little.
It simply is good practice.

 

[hogpatrol]

I know Burris signature insert rings work, but I would be interested to see how much that insert shifts around POA when tested against another known solid optic in a scope tester with solid bedded rings...of course the optic in the Burris rings would have to be a known solid optic as well.

Not saying they shift or move, would just be interested in the test to make sure of the hold.

Ledd, I've seen them used in a lead sled loaded down with 100 lbs of lead shooting a smokeless muzzleloader, the likes of which has some serious recoil. IMHO, that is abuse on the scope and mounts. The Burris mounted scope never budged.

Having said that, I agree with lapping and fitting standard steel rings with some sort of material to fill in any lost metal.