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Scope installation guide?

Boyer takes it one step further. After he has the scope, rings & mount set-up to shoot, he zeros rifle dead-on at 100yds. Using a boresighter that fits in the end of the barrel he then records where the reticle is relative to the boresighter's grid. Then he removes the scope & optically centers it. Now he puts the scope, rings & mount back on adjusting each so that the scope reticle matches the recorded boresighter coordinates.
Yeah, I'm good with a few clicks here and there for zero. LOL.
 
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30mm Warne Maxima rings for CZ. Larue Tactical plastic inserts on a 1" tube. I'd like to put a 30mm tube 1-6 on this gun. If/when that happens I'll just go metal to metal with the Warnes.
 
I've read everything I could find on the Talley website and they recommend against lapping their solid mounts/rings. Next, checking torque specs found this
  • Cap Screws on Scope Rings: 17-20 in/lb on ring cap screws. Do not exceed scope manufacturer’s allowable torque specs on main tube
I'm guessing for a Prostaff the above numbers sound good. Any words of wisdom pointing otherwise?

Finally,
  • Scope Mounts to Action: Torque can depend on the receiver. Please check with the rifle manufacturer (Remington) to verify allowable torque into receiver.
Could anyone kindly point me to the torque spec for mounting screws into the receiver on an R 700 in stainless? And if anyone might know, the same receiver torque spec for a Weatherby Vanguard?

Appreciate all replies and thanks for any additional quick info related to above -
 
Thanks for replies -

After researching mounts for a few hours looks like I could be researching installation for days ... lots of different angles. Interesting to see reports of best practices across the spectrum without much consensus.

Have seen indications that some type of thread treatment could make it less likely for receiver screws to corrode / seize and reportedly can help removal of screws later?

Thoughts on these? ...

View attachment 1389833
View attachment 1389834
You want blue loctite, not red......ever.
 
Thanks for the question!

I don't anticipate doing so. I've got a lot of irons in life's fire and getting everything perfect or avoiding a scratch on a scope isn't a priority for me at this point. I understand I could work to get every stress out of the scope and work on dozens of other nice but relatively esoteric tweaks but I've still had brilliant results with less refined approaches and been doing well at my level.

No, I don't see bedding the bases, and, as-is, when gently setting the scope into the bottoms of the Talleys they attach to the receiver and grip weirdly well, like you couldn't slide a piece of the smallest thing you could find between. With the scope in the bottom of the rings it's smooth but like with ideal "stickion" . Like, the scope will move in the bottoms, but with beautiful seemingly equal friction all around. I think I'm going to torque it down and go punch some paper
 
Got a lot of irons in the fire but got the scope mounted today. Took extra caution getting everything tweaked, backed-out and reset once to get reticle trued, used conservative inch-lbs with the Wheeler, everything seeming good.

Put eleven rounds at a hint over 100 YDS, constantly adjusting scope, from a plastic picnic table in the wind here were the final two impacts with no adjustment between

pois.jpeg

At about $2.50 a round was regretting two words of advice. One, give the scope a couple love taps with a rubber mallet, and two, adjust the turrets through the full range of adjustability a couple of times to help the internals settle. I felt like in those eleven rounds I was getting some "scope settling" (what is that called?) and wished I'd followed wise advise. However, having rekindled my interest in this recreation wanted to move forward briskly in the interest of putting some venison in the freezer before the season slips away.

All replies absolutely thoroughly appreciated - I've learned something from everyone. Maybe I'll get there
 
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