I have a question regarding attaching my one piece stainless steel Near Manufacturing base to my sainless Savage action. I have read that some people use blue Loctite 243 on the screws,which I will definately do), but what about Loctite on the surfaces? How about a metal product such as JB Weld or Devcon between the two mating surfaces? What do the top BR shooters and gun builders use, if anything? Any suggestions?
Scope Base to Receiver
- Thread starter heikki02003
- Start date
First off I'm not a TOP Benchrest shooter, but that being said I've bedded numerous bases to Savage receivers. If I think I want to remove the base at a later time I first coat the receiver and the base screws with Kiwi Neutral shoe polish. I then scuff the bottom of the base then clean with brake clean and dry. I apply a coat of JB Quick epoxy to the base and then start the two inner screws then the outer two. I then tighten the two inner screws somewhat firmly and clean off the excess bedding material. Leave for at least 1 hour then remove the inner screws and clean them and the hole and apply Loctite blue then tighten and then do the same with the outer two.
Shoot Strait teele1
Shoot Strait teele1
I am an engineer and amateur gunsmith, and I glass bed mounts to receivers to get 1) alignment, 2) stability, and rigidity.
I have taken all kinds of flames from professional gunsmiths at the Accurate Reloading gunsmithing forum for this.
There seems to be a trade off between functionality and making jewelry.
I get the Weaver rings tight on a scope and the rings tight on the mounts, but the mounts only loosely screwed to the receiver. Then I align the scope with the bore. When the epoxy between the receiver and mounts hardens, I tighten the screws. No ring lapping is needed or wanted and scopes with rings swap between rifles and start out on the paper.
I have taken all kinds of flames from professional gunsmiths at the Accurate Reloading gunsmithing forum for this.
There seems to be a trade off between functionality and making jewelry.
I get the Weaver rings tight on a scope and the rings tight on the mounts, but the mounts only loosely screwed to the receiver. Then I align the scope with the bore. When the epoxy between the receiver and mounts hardens, I tighten the screws. No ring lapping is needed or wanted and scopes with rings swap between rifles and start out on the paper.
My one addition to what teele1 and Clark said is that with a rail like the Near, I put something flat on top so that I can tell when I've overtightened one of the screws. It is real easy to do. I bought a parallel set from one of the supply houses--cheapest way to get to a nice, easy-to-handle, flat surface.
Thanks folks, your help is greatly appreciated.
I need some clarification rstreich... what do you mean about a parallel set to put on top the one peice base during assembly? I think your suggesting this to make sure that I don't warp or tweak the base? Is that right? I plan on using a Snap-On inch/lb torque wrench and puting them to Near spec. Do I still need to maintain "flatness"? Or are you talking about making sure the JB is equally distriduted under the base while tightening?
I need some clarification rstreich... what do you mean about a parallel set to put on top the one peice base during assembly? I think your suggesting this to make sure that I don't warp or tweak the base? Is that right? I plan on using a Snap-On inch/lb torque wrench and puting them to Near spec. Do I still need to maintain "flatness"? Or are you talking about making sure the JB is equally distriduted under the base while tightening?
I mean something like this. There are all kinds of sizes and tolerances to choose from. The set I bought doesn't have a picture.
Yes, you need something to maintain flatness and no you don't want the JB evenly distributed. You want the JB to fill in all of the gaps where the base isn't making contact with the receiver. I don't know about Savage receivers, but Remington receivers are notoriously out of whack. If you just tighten down the screw to its prescribed torque setting, it will probably warp the rail if it isn't making even contact.
Since I bought it, I've found the parallel to be real handy to have around.,Sometimes I learn things I'd rather not know about, however. Kind'a like having a borescope.) So, you could also try just mounting your rail and checking to see that it's flat. If it is, why bother bedding it?
Oh, BTW, when you're through with that Snap-On torque driver, send it to me. I'll send it back to you as soon as I'm done with it......in about 20 years
Are they worth it?
Yes, you need something to maintain flatness and no you don't want the JB evenly distributed. You want the JB to fill in all of the gaps where the base isn't making contact with the receiver. I don't know about Savage receivers, but Remington receivers are notoriously out of whack. If you just tighten down the screw to its prescribed torque setting, it will probably warp the rail if it isn't making even contact.
Since I bought it, I've found the parallel to be real handy to have around.,Sometimes I learn things I'd rather not know about, however. Kind'a like having a borescope.) So, you could also try just mounting your rail and checking to see that it's flat. If it is, why bother bedding it?
Oh, BTW, when you're through with that Snap-On torque driver, send it to me. I'll send it back to you as soon as I'm done with it......in about 20 years
Are they worth it?The way to get the mounts in the same plane is to put the rings on a flat surface when tightening to the scope.
This has to be done while they are the right distance apart for the holes drilled and tapped into the receiver.
Some rings do not have dual flat spots on bottom and will not do for alignment.
The new Leupold LED lit magnetic base collimator is nice for getting the mounts parallel with the barrel bore.
The scope needs to be in the center of windage and elevation adjustments. That can be done by rotating the scope in two bottom half rings while looking at a target. Adjust until the cross hairs stay on one spot.
This has to be done while they are the right distance apart for the holes drilled and tapped into the receiver.
Some rings do not have dual flat spots on bottom and will not do for alignment.
The new Leupold LED lit magnetic base collimator is nice for getting the mounts parallel with the barrel bore.
The scope needs to be in the center of windage and elevation adjustments. That can be done by rotating the scope in two bottom half rings while looking at a target. Adjust until the cross hairs stay on one spot.
Thanks for all the replies!
Hello. I just tried this technique: gluing the scope base to a remington 7400 with Devcon, using shoe polish for release agent on the screws. It looks like it will work. I want a permanent mount. This stuff is 3$ at walmart, with 2 nozzles that mix the agents as you squeeze the plunger. This stuff will set in about 3-4 minutes, not five like the package says. It says 1 hour to full strenght, so 8hrs should do it, and also the screws will have threadlocked holding power also. Thanks for the tip.
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He bought some cancer drugs as he had on the previous two trips for his employer with cancer.
He was put in a Mexican prison for 1.5 years.
The judge and lawyers wanted constant bribes.
His mother died of cancer from the stress.
The only way to get him out was $20k to a New York lawyer who knew how to do a prisoner exchange. When the US got him, they immediately released him.
We cannot absorb 50 million uneducated, non English speaking, poor, illegal, hostile, liberal foreigners with a culture of corruption.
911 is no threat at all compared to Mexico.
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