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scope adjustment question

Hi
I have a Burris scope with Burris signature rings. I can not get it zeroed at 100 yards still shots high what way do I need to shim the scope? Raise or lower the front?

THANKS FOR THE HELP
 
hoene72: I've been thru this many times & also use the Burris offset insert rings, to keep my elev & wind close to center. Anyway: always move the front of the scope in the opposite direction from the way you want to move bullet point-of-impact. As an example, the very long range shooters need the maximum amount of 'up' adjustment, so many times they choose the tapered base mount,s) that is lower in the front, and higher in the rear. This is an 'opposite' example of what you need.
 
crashnrondo said:
I'm pretty sure you would raise the front of the scope, that way you are matching the point of impact.

SORRY MAN, YOU WOULD NEED TO LOWER THE FRONT OF THE SCOPE IN ORDER TO TO GAIN LONGER RANGE ADJUSTMENTS.
 
billmo: We must be posting at the same time/ just read your post after 'doing' mine. I think he said his problem is his point-of-impact is high & he ran out of 'down' adjustment. His problem is the opposite of the 1000 yd. shooters. Plz correct me if I'm wrong: it's happened before.
 
billmo said:
crashnrondo said:
I'm pretty sure you would raise the front of the scope, that way you are matching the point of impact.

SORRY MAN, YOU WOULD NEED TO LOWER THE FRONT OF THE SCOPE IN ORDER TO TO GAIN LONGER RANGE ADJUSTMENTS.

I might be wrong but I'm not sure that is what the OP is trying to do. I read it that he is maxed out of adjustment on the scope and and he is still shooting high. So his POA is the center bull but the POI is say 4' high,just an example) so I think the front of the scope has to come up. Unless I engaged the fingers before the brain?:):crazy::crazy:
 
Imagine looking through the scope at a target. your bullet impact is high. what does the cross hair need to do to be at the point of impact? raising the front of the scope would get you there. hope this clears up some of the confusion.
treeman
 
Treeman is correct for this shooting high problem and he also explained it the best. :crazy:
 
Yes, great explanation. I always try to remember a recent article,within the past year), in 'Precision Shooting' magazine concerning some rifles that were set-up for for firing beyond 1000 yards--- waaayyyyyy beyond, like 2500 yds. Looking at the side profile of several of the rifles: the centerline of the scope was at such a radical angle, with the front slanted down, if you projected a line from the center of the bore, to where it met the scope centerline, it would be a foot or so in front of the muzzle. It seems this would be the reason many of the long range stocks have the height adjustable,up) stock cheekpiece sections, to give a spot weld/head position when the scope eyepiece is radically high. Long range one piece scope mount bases are slanted down, rear toward the front. Confusing issue I know.
 
Or as we teach in Firearms Safety Class,move the rear sight,rear ring insert in this case) the direction you want the bullet to go DOWN using a - insert on the rear bottom ring with a + on top. eg. -.005 bottom +.005 top etc.
 
Being your rifle is already shooting too high and you've run out of adjustment simply use the ring inserts that are provided with your Burris Signature Z Rings to raise the front and lower the rear. It's this simple, place the - .005 insert under the bottom of the scope on rear ring and the + .005 insert under the scope on the front ring, as CJ6 is dead right.

Hope this helps.
RJ
 
RJs eg.would give you a 10' impact change,my eg would give you only 5' change RJs is a better eg. Burris offers their inserts in .005,.01,.02,+or- sizes to fit your needs.You can also buy a Gunsmith kit that has enough inserts to do 10 scopes in each configuration,more if combine/alternate) them.
 

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