SAVAGE TRIGGER

[autoxforfun]

I had a RB Sav-2 on one of the first Savages that I changed the trigger on. After a fair amount of tuning, it shot and had a nice crisp light pull, but I never trusted it. I was always careful on how I closed the bolt but would never let anyone else shoot it.....if you closed the bolt hard, it would trip.

Never had an issue with JARD and like how they feel. They are not a Jewell or TT but pretty nice.

The Red Savage triggers are pretty good. What finally chased me away were two things. First, I found that when shooting a string, like in a match, that there was some variation in the pull. Some were lighter and others were heavier....I wanted them consistent. The second was that you had to be careful of any side load on the red safety....it could cause the trigger to lock if you put any side pressure on it. Looks like some folks were shimming the sides to eliminate this....which I didn't do....so perhaps this could have been resolved.

 

[Rocketvapor]

Side play is a big problem.
One, side force trips the trigger down to the blade requiring a bolt lift to reset.
It also (if it doesn't trip) changes the set of the sear/trigger and pull will feel different.
Why such a KNOWN issue isn't taken care of by Savage, requiring the end user to work on a factory part.
And it isn't just the Red Target Trigger, it's any Accutrigger.

 

[dusterdave173]

My Red Blade works much more consistent with more pull weight--Yes sure you can get it way down there but then they get sketchy and very inconsistent --keep them about 1 lb or more and they will do much better
Another trait is that the adjustment works lose --changing things --after a long range day it can and will move--a little clear nail polish can help with that
You can play with them and wind up with a pretty decent trigger but chasing the lightest setting will prove to you that is not the way to go.
I can live with my Savages but every time I pick up my Remington with a cheapo Timney in it I get the itch to change

 

[Rocketvapor]

For the standard trigger I put a Chinese, via ebay 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm spring in the blade, trimmed a little and bent up one loop to fit in the hole in the trigger. Took the blade spring and put a little tit on the end and put it in as the trigger spring. Slips right in, have to trim to adjust.
Side play is a killer if you don't address it. Shim it.

If you try to get the AccuTrigger to a low pull weight you really need to address BLADE FORCE.
The blade spring applies force to the trigger, decreasing it. A high blade force almost trips the trigger for you.
I suggest blade force of 25 to 50% of total pull weight.

 

[YBPS]

Next time your around those fellows, tell them to slam the bolt shut, briskly. I would bet a steak dinner they trip off. Bench or range only, I DO NOT like those kinds of surprises.
I know some that talk them up, RB. I have come to the conclusion until you remove ALL of the Savage stamped parts, they will not be what the could be, safe and light.
Had one guy tell me to put the safety on before closing the bolt, then go to fire. Well I will just say it was unnerving at times, take the safety off and bang. Built in slop in the factory sear helps nothing.
I will just tinker with my factory accu trigger and go on as long as it does nothing foolish.

I have a couple of JARD and one SSS.

I agree. My RB is not safe. I would NOT recommend it at all. It will go off if I get in a hurry while closing the bolt, if I don’t baby it. I wish I didn’t toss the stock acu trigger. At least it would lock out, which I hated, but at least if didn’t go BANG. I’m going to try the Jard.

 

[Old Navy]

You using the Accutrigger in your Savage Benchrest guns?
For 6oz what do you get for blade force?
The Accutrigger ain't gonna make 2oz and be safe and stable.
Gonna try the wife out later this week with her 2oz/7oz trigger.

One has the Accutrigger and the other is OEM without the blade.

 

[Mcrider55]

I have an AccuTrigger set at the lowest the adjustment I am allowed to make. The pull is very comparable to my AR's at about 2lbs.

What is the worst setting (lbs) I can go on the gun before running into AD's? I was thinking of doing the Mcarbo kit ,but now I'm not so sure it's a great idea. Not planning on any hunting with my Savage, just target oriented shooting.

 

[rebs]

What is the Mcarbo kit

 

[Mcrider55]

What is the Mcarbo kit

This is what I've read about.

Savage AXIS Pro Trigger Kit

Savage AXIS Trigger Upgrade Pro-Kit includes everything you need to reduce your Savage AXIS Trigger Pull, adjust overtravel and eliminate the side to side wobble with Stainless Trigger Shims. Best Savage AXIS Trigger Upgrade for the money!

www.mcarbo.com

 

[Rocketvapor]

I don't think the Accutrigger is subject to AD with the Safety Blade. That's why it's there.
With heavier pulls the side play is less likely to cause sear drops (down to the blade).
With lighter pulls it takes less side force to trip the sear. DUH.
Side play MUST GO.
If you hunt or use your Savage in positional PRS then a light pull won't be your friend.
For disciplined Prone off bags and a rest, or from a Bench, a lighter pull can be made safe.

The Red Blade Target Trigger/Sear (available from Gun Shack) has a different sear angle and might be more susceptible than the silver blade Trigger/Sear. I bought one but still have the standard Trigger/Sear in the wife's rifle.

I haven't tried the MCarbo springs but the shims (also available from GunShack) are a necessity.
2, 3, 4 foot drop? Glad they did it 'cause I'm not.
I don't see a hard overtravel stop screw as an advantage to rifle follow though.

From my earlier post:
For the standard trigger I put a Chinese, via ebay 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm spring in the blade, trimmed a little and bent up one loop to fit in the hole in the trigger. Took the blade spring and put a little tit on the end and put it in as the trigger spring. Slips right in, have to trim to adjust.

Gun Smiths will probably hesitate to do Accutrigger mods to less than a pound total pull weight.
I'm NOT an expert with Savage guns, but from tests in the KLAS (Kitchen, Lab, Armory, Shop),
and at the range a pull less than 1 pound is doable and safe (take my word for it?).
Shim it.

I still suggest a Pull Gauge capable of seeing slight changes in pull weight if you are going to work with various springs and adjustments.
8oz blade pull with a 1 lb total is OK,
3.5oz blade pull with a 7oz total is OK,
2oz blade pull with a 7oz total is OK (easier to feel the step).


One more comment
I see complaints about Savages Failure to Fire. Learn to FEEL the difference between sear drop to safety blade and pin fall FTF.

 

[bsekf]

Rocketvapor, excellent writeup. When all else fails I just put my finger behind the trigger when I close the bolt. I am going to send you a PM.
Bill

 

[Rocketvapor]

All done with the trigger for now. A little grease on the trigger parts, torqued the action back into the stock and checked trigger pull and function of 3 position safety. Bumped, slammed, dropped (a few inches to the floor, not FEET).
No false trips with reasonable side force. Just waiting on a good day to head to the range.

 

[Barrelnut]

I have the newer Jard trigger. Got the 7~12 oz version. My trigger gauge says 8 oz. with it. It's nice to get away from the Savage trigger blade, when you get below 16 oz. like this. The Savage trigger is made with stamped steel which causes some slop which the blade rectifies. The Savage sear is also stamped steel which makes for some loose manufacturing tolerances. The Jard replaces the whole trigger AND sear. I think it's a good solution. I replaced my red bladed trigger with it. Very solid and predictable trigger. A Jewell it is not though...

 

[Rocketvapor]

She shot about 50 rounds for practice, and likes the Safety blade.
Going Saturday, rain permitting, for a 600 match.