Savage trigger & bolt issues

[Erik Cortina]

Ultra, it's a Savage, so in factory form they are exactly what you have and no more. In order to have a somewhat usable action you have to replace the bolt or have yours worked on. You also need to replace the trigger, but even aftermarket triggers are junk for Savages. The action will always be sloppy and there is nothing you can do about it.

If you don't want to put any more money into it, then you better learn to like it, because there is not much you can do to make them better.

Spoken like someone who has all their equipment provided to them. Savage rifles are a good basic gun but with the proper aftermarket parts,including triggers,they can shoot right up there with the rest of them for less money.

Wow, you signed up just for that post? What a waste of bandwidth.

Do you know me? I'm willing to be that you don't as I don't have friends that think like you. So, if you don't know me, how can you make statements like the one you made? That shows your knowledge level and credibility.

 

[Concha]

Savage Shooters dot com is kind of slow right now so all of the Jim Baker boys are looking for places to post.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Savage Shooters dot com is kind of slow right now so all of the Jim Baker boys are looking for places to post.

;D

 

[Jay Christopherson]

Any time that your trigger has let go, has the rifle gone off unexpectedly? NO
WHY
Because its a accu trigger with safety build in.
The rifle will NOT FIRE unless you pull on the trigger!
This is a TARGET rifle with a TARGET trigger that can be adjusted light for a FACTORY gun.
Every single one that I have messed with is the same.
The parts are loser then a custom action so to provide a safe feature they added the blade to the trigger system
I have used many RB SAV 2 triggers also and there nice BUT when they are adjusted light and go off un expectedly the rifle will fire. HOWS THAT FOR SAFE???
It is just the nature of the beast.
Try what I have told you a see what the out come is.
From the bench I have never got my target action to go off unexpectedly unless I closed the bolt fast.
GO SLOW and enjoy it for what it is.

This has the be one of the most unsafe and ridiculous recommendations I have ever seen - "it's just the nature of the beast"? If I close the bolt a little too fast, I should expect that my rifle might fire unexpectedly? How slowly do I have to close the bolt? If I start fast, but slow down, will the rifle go off? If I turn around twice, cover one eye, make the sign to ward off the evil eye, tap the bolt three times, before closing it "slowly", will that help to reduce the chance that my rifle will go off before I'm prepared to fire it?

FWIW, a fellow shooter has a Jewell Evolution Trigger on his Savage. It works fine at 4oz. If you're going to play the game, play it right. Get the right tools for the job, rather than making an unsafe environment for everyone else.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Jaychris, a Jewell on a Savage?

 

[Jay Christopherson]

Do'h - it's an Evolution Trigger that he had done by SSS.

 

[243LRP]

"Wow, you signed up just for that post? What a waste of bandwidth".

I've been wanting to sign up for a while but it took your bashing to do so. Not everyone can afford high dollar equipment. In the immortal words of Thumper,"If you can't say anything nice,don't say anything at all".

 

[Erik Cortina]

"Wow, you signed up just for that post? What a waste of bandwidth".

I've been wanting to sign up for a while but it took your bashing to do so. Not everyone can afford high dollar equipment. In the immortal words of Thumper,"If you can't say anything nice,don't say anything at all".

I'm glad you are contributing so much to this site. Good for you.

 

[moorepower]

A Caswell plating EN kit can be used to plate the sear and trigger, to make them hard so they will last. The problem with the EVO trigger, is where you have to send your gun to get it installed. I have used him once, and never again. Bad experience would be a really nice way to put it. I quit posting on the Savage shooters site, because of the lustful relations with SSS. That being said, I have seen no other factory rifles that compete with the turd Savage rifles, as some of you like to think. They offer a better stock than most, a better barrel than most, and fyi there are not many other makers with triggers under 1lb. I have 1 Remington 700 that shoots close to my LRPV, the rest of them I ended up selling. The one that does shoot really well, needed bedding, a trigger job, lapping the barrel, and believe it or not, and most won't, the last thing I did before giving up was had it Cryoed. No doubt, I can buy a better trigger for the 700, but I can install what ever brand, caliber of barrel by my self, I can install a PTG oversize bolt body to tighten the slop if so desired. I can get a PTG bolt head in any boltface I desire in a Savage. It is a nice gun for those of us, that don't have the $$$ to send off and have a custom rifle built, that can be improved upon as you progress. It will probably never be a BR gun, but they seem to have done OK in F-class with a great trigger man. Another thing, for a lot of local BR matches, there are lots of folks that have guns that FAR surpass their ability to pull the trigger, sao the best guns don't always win. If your desire is to win open BR matches you will not be happy. If you desire to shoot factory class, or shoot the snot out of prairie dogs, then you have found the perfect match.

 

[Raythemanroe]

I think that Salvage will have stolen the market in a few years with there mindset of catering to the shooters..No doubt there leading the pack options straight from the factory..I still don'tsee my self spending $1300 for a rifle that I intend to replace the stock and barrel to be stuck with a Salvage type trigger..I mean really, what are you out $300 dollars to have a Smith chamber and fit a custom?

 

[moorepower]

You can spend a grand on a 700 and it still is not a BR gun. You will have $3K minimum with an aftermarket action, If you find some good deals, by the time your gun is done. For the Savage, I would have started with the action and bought the barrel I wanted, but he did not. He asked a question about a trigger, not to be called an idiot. This forum used to be above that.

 

[missed]

I have one of Fred's EVO triggers on my 308 and it was T&T while it was there, and got one of his fishnet bodies. I ended up with the Savage since I am a lefty and it was savage or $1000+ dollars for an action alone. The T&T job lightened my bolt lift significantly and the fishnet bolt slides smoother, it is still sloppy once it unlocks but I think part of that is just the way its built and the floating bolt head. Mine gets rounds down range above my ability so until I have the money for a bat, shilen, stiller, stolle......savage it is....damn being a lefty sometimes...

 

[misterc01]

So, with a Model 12 F-class Targer Rifle, i got the precision-version Accutrigger. At 6oz, it was little too light, and he yes, closing the bolt fast/hard locked it up. So I call Savage, and it is doing what it WAS DESIGNED to do. I changed the pull weight to 1 pound - solved that problem. I find pulling the blade back until the pad of my finger is on the trigger is the when you know it ready to shoot. You also KNOW you have not moved anything sideways. Solved that problem. Never had a slam fire. NOW I am trying to figure out why I have had the trigger lock up with the bolt close "slightly" hard. Has only happened with about five rounds. Ones bfore them and after funcitnoned just fine. Lock ups occurred after I had a case-neck separation (Federal brass, third reload) and in the rpocess of getting the round and bolt out, the extractor popped out. Found all the parts, put it back in, and all worked, except for a slight "drag' when closing the bolt, Finished the match, went home, removed the extractor and cleaned all the debris from the blow out from the extractor "hole," and reassembled it all. Back to nice and smooth bolt. I deconstructed one of hte probme rounds, a reassemble it witout powder, used primer nad bullt er seated to same depth as befoe, and it id di not lock the trigger when chambered. Cannot conect any dots bewteen the case head issue and the locked tirgger. Spoke to Savage, they had not heard of that issue before, so I will test it after a very thorough cleaning, and if problem is still there, back to Savage to have their gunsmith examine it. Overall - I enjoy shooting it, it works fine for me, and the only isses I have are usually operator error.

 

[spudgun]

OK, I'm going to toss in my experience with the 2 savage accu triggers I have.

Like the first post I also was trying to adjust down to 1 Lb on the trigger. Sometimes I would get a slam fire and trigger lock up.

One thing I did notice was at the light trigger setting if I touched the trigger on the side it would sometimes release the sear. Looked at the amount of play in the trigger housing and the trigger it's self. It seemed that any amount of side slop would effect the sear engagement. I added small thin washers between the trigger housing and the trigger to take up the side slop. This did help alot but also noted that the trigger pin was sloppy due to not being large enough (or the trigger pin hole too big).

after about 1 year of using it with this modifications I replaced both of my savage triggers with Timney triggers.