Savage target action torque specs
- Thread starter zap
- Start date
55 on mine. Pillar bedded professionallyrics and that's what he suggested. Works for me
Mine is pillar bedded as well and it does not matter what the torque settings are as long as they are not loose.
The article on tuning works. My LRPV 204 was a dog every time I removed stock for trigger adjustment. I set front and middle screws to 35 in-lb then shot in increments of 5 on the rear screw until group converged. First rifle that required a torque wrench I ever owned. Savage was rumored to be considering adding capability to adjust trigger without removing stock.
The 3rd or rear action screw torque on the 3 screw LRPV actions has always been problematic. My experience has shown that anything more than just enough to keep from loosing this this screw with LockTite is a real problem. Whenever I meet a LRPV shooter that is complaining about poor accuracy after removing and then reinstalling the stock, I tell them to back WAY off on the torque of this 3rd screw and the accuracy returns.
So tuning with that 3rd screw is kind'a challenging my prior experience with this screw torque. But I will try it and see...........................
So tuning with that 3rd screw is kind'a challenging my prior experience with this screw torque. But I will try it and see...........................
zap
Silver $$ Contributor
Ok , thanks a lot !
I have been struggling with accuracy for quite a while. I had switched bases and scopes last winter (Dec.). All the sudden , the rifle (6.5x47), started to shoot really well with all powders that I would feed it. Groups were in the high two's. It performed great for about 3 range sessions.
Then , when i put my nightforce and ferral base on, the accuracy was back to crap again, shooting the same loads that shot good back in Dec.
I had taken the barreled action off a few times to inspect bedding , lug area, tang area, etc. So i probably had put more torque on that back screw, when I put it back together.
I assumed that it was the base, but after hearing these replies, i am now hoping that when I loosen the back screw some, that the accuracy will return. I have all three screws very tight as i speak.
I will loosen the rear screw to 5lbs and adjust from there, watching for groups to tighten up. I will update this after I shoot soon.
Thank you all VERY much !
I have been struggling with accuracy for quite a while. I had switched bases and scopes last winter (Dec.). All the sudden , the rifle (6.5x47), started to shoot really well with all powders that I would feed it. Groups were in the high two's. It performed great for about 3 range sessions.
Then , when i put my nightforce and ferral base on, the accuracy was back to crap again, shooting the same loads that shot good back in Dec.
I had taken the barreled action off a few times to inspect bedding , lug area, tang area, etc. So i probably had put more torque on that back screw, when I put it back together.
I assumed that it was the base, but after hearing these replies, i am now hoping that when I loosen the back screw some, that the accuracy will return. I have all three screws very tight as i speak.
I will loosen the rear screw to 5lbs and adjust from there, watching for groups to tighten up. I will update this after I shoot soon.
Thank you all VERY much !
Your last statement where you mentioned switching scopes caught my attention. Very recently I had an issue very similar to yours. I replaced my T36 Weaver with a BR Nightforce and my groups went to heck. After exhausting a bunch of time and different loads, I contacted Nightforce customer service and posed the question of whether or not they felt it could be a faulty scope. The fellow immediately admitted that it definitely could be a scope problem,but in the same breath explained that due to the weight and mass of the nightforce compared to the Weaver, I just may have a base and ring problem. I took his advise and glued my pica tinny rail directly to the action. He suggested I use JBWeld with no release agent and even apply JB to the threads of the attachment screws. I followed his suggestion and my problems went away immediately! The Nightforce representative did say that should I wish to send the scope to him for inspection, he would be more than willing to check it out with no charge.
Should I ever feel the need to remove that rail I simply will apply a bit of heat to remove the screws and rail. Had I not experienced this scenario for myself I would be a sceptic. Just saying. Good luck!
Should I ever feel the need to remove that rail I simply will apply a bit of heat to remove the screws and rail. Had I not experienced this scenario for myself I would be a sceptic. Just saying. Good luck!
zap
Silver $$ Contributor
260 ravage, that is rather interesting......
The first rifle I had this nightforce on was my savage model 12 in .223. There is no doubt that the NF helped my groups get better at longer ranges. It seemed to work great on my 223, but I will keep that in mind as a last resort.
The first rifle I had this nightforce on was my savage model 12 in .223. There is no doubt that the NF helped my groups get better at longer ranges. It seemed to work great on my 223, but I will keep that in mind as a last resort.
zap
Silver $$ Contributor
I got out and shot a little this morning. I set my two top screws to 35" pounds and the rear screw to 5" pounds to shoot my first groups. I used two powders and loads that have shot good last December.
To make a long story short, my rifle seems to like around 10" pounds on that rear screw as some of you guys mentioned. Groups look very promising and now I feel i can tweek the load and the screw some to really dial it in !
Thanks everyone,
Lee
To make a long story short, my rifle seems to like around 10" pounds on that rear screw as some of you guys mentioned. Groups look very promising and now I feel i can tweek the load and the screw some to really dial it in !
Thanks everyone,
Lee
Interesting. I'm sure you know but I'll mention this. The picatinny rail screw hole on a Savage (closest to the muzzle) is drilled thru. It requires a shorter screw than the other 3. If not, it cuts into the barrel threads. What it does too accuracy I don't know but it can not help and it does a job on the barrel threads.260Ravage said:
zap
Silver $$ Contributor
M61,
I did know about that screw digging in to the threads a little. Most all large shank savage barrels will have this issue. So, I did some checking a while back , because my concern was that the screw may have not actually been tight on the rail because of this. I did some measuring with depth gauges and confirmed that my screw was tightening properly, so I was able to rule that out.
I thank you for bringing this up, as maybe others having an issue will check this.
I did know about that screw digging in to the threads a little. Most all large shank savage barrels will have this issue. So, I did some checking a while back , because my concern was that the screw may have not actually been tight on the rail because of this. I did some measuring with depth gauges and confirmed that my screw was tightening properly, so I was able to rule that out.
I thank you for bringing this up, as maybe others having an issue will check this.
I'm actually trimming down a front base screw today for this very reason. I wasn't able to find any 6-48 hardware locally.
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