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savage target action for a br build

jghoghunter

Gold $$ Contributor
Has anyone here used a savage target action rb lp re for a br build? If anyone has how did they shoot when they were done. I shoot groundhog matches and was thinking of building one in 308 for out to 500 yds. Who did most of your work? Thanks.
 
I usually jump on these Savage posts. I had Kevin Rayhill build my Savage Varminter. It's a Savage single shot target action in a RBRP. I have a Bushnell 4200 Tactical scope on it. The barrel is a Benchmark. I'm very happy with it. It has Burris Signature Z rings and I forget which scope bases are on it-shoot. It's a 6BR in one of Kevins PDS stocks. I finished the stock myself. I just krylon'd it and I shoot it a lot. It's all nicked up and ready for another coat of cheap paint.

Is it going to win any matches? Probably not in my hands. It has a 25" barrel with a no turn neck. Muzzle diameter is .930" I never formally weighed the gun, but I'm guessing the weight of it might cover 18 pounds.

I'm very happy with it. I don't think I have any problem hitting ground hogs and crows at 500 yds on a calm day, but don't we all. I've learned a lot shooting it and have a lot more to learn. I have a hard time with wind. Usually I underestimate it just a bit and if I compenstate at the last minute - I hit where I compenstate.

Kevin's business is called Stockade Stocks.
 
I have 3 in various configurations (repeater and two single shot). They all shoot great. Did the smithing myself but Fred Moreo at Sharpshooter supply does great work. A friend has just done one through them. 6BR, 6.5*284 and .308 calibers. Just finished the latest 6BR barrel and took it out on weekend, first range at 600 yards and shot a 98 (100 - 8X equivalent) and the two near misses were my wind read problems. Well under quarter minute vertical. The 6.5*284 sits around the quarter minute vertical or just over and the 308 around 0.4. I love em and now I am used to the accutrigger, find it difficult to shoot well with anything else. These were all built for F class, but the 6BR makes our weight restrictions on BR and I am going to take it to a few BR matches for fun. Don't let anyone tell you there is anything wrong with a savage.......
 
I took the leap and recently bought a Savage PTA in a RBLP setup, and am having a Brux barrel screwed on in 6.5X47 Lapua at this time, rifle will not be ready until probably October. Kevin at Stockade is building me one of his stocks in a thumbhole version with the 3 inch wide fore end. This gun will strictly be for 5-600 yard local benchrest and varmint shoots. I am stoked on this build as I have 2 other Savages in factory varmint profiles, and they shoot like a house afire. My smith is installing the SAV2 Rifle Basix trigger as I just can't get used to the Accutrugger, and he will time and tune action. Remember that the Savage actions are less than half the price of the all out custom actions and that money saved will get your dies, brass, componets etc.

Frank
 
hoghunter,
I recently bought a factory f-class savage and took it to montana for the 1000 yd finals @ the deep creek range and scored a 96 on the last day, I liked it so well I am going to buy a rblp action,brux barrel,a basics trigger,and a shahane tracker and head back to montana next year.should be fun. My son and I are each going to build custom br rifles this winter both the same from top to bottom plan on a Lawton or bat actions but havn't ruled out savage.
Wayne
 
I was a rank amature the end of 2008 when I bought a Precision Target Action in RBLP configuration. I also bought a Shilen select match Pre-Fit barrel and a used BVSS stock. I also bought GO and NO-GO headspace gauges. It took a bit of work to remove the black paint, re-finish the stock and plug action screw holes and magazine hole, then drill new action screw holes, piller bed and skim bed the action. Of course, I never re-loaded before either so I bought LEE press, dies and all other needed supplies. developed a load for my 243 WIN and haven't looked back. I use the accutrigger as I had no prior predjudices other than military and hunting rifle triggers. I still can't read the wind, but I'm getting better at 600 and 1000 yd all the time. And, as a right hander, the RBLP is a natural. Now, if I only had a bottom eject port!

GO FOR IT!
 
Savage action rifles are common in precision shooting sports here in the UK, although almost everybody uses the PT RBRP version of the action. Many are still in factory form competing in Factory Sporter class in 600 and 1,000yd BR - very successfully too - nearly always 6.5-284 12 F-Class models. The 6BR version hasn't caught on here.

We're also seeing an increasing number of either complete Savage or Savage-action rifles in F-TR, the latter using a PT action usually with a True-Flite or Bartlein barrel, many built by Stuart Anselm (Osprey Rifles) who has successfully used Savages himself for some years:

http://www.ospreyrifles.com/

and is the GB F-TR Team Captain. They are normally 'conventionally smithed', ie the Savage barrel nut locking system dispensed with.

There is absolutely no reason why the RBLP LRPV action couldn't be used instead of the RBRP PT version apart from customer preference, target shooters generally being very conservative about these sorts of things. I just had a guy ask advice two or three weeks ago about the spec for a proposed .223 single-shot F-TR Savage. Before anything else, he stated he'd been offered a build based on the RBLP action, but wouldn't have that as left feed wasn't on. (Why? You only try to load the the first round of the match into a solid right receiver wall without thinking. After that, you just use the left port automatically.)

I suspect another factor is that dealers and gunsmiths find it easier to get hold of new PT actions. One advantage the LRPV RPLP version has over the RBRP PT action is cartridge feed into the chamber - the former has a sloped action floor so you just dump the cartridge in the port and close the bolt. The PT action has a flat action floor and the cartridge nose bumps against the rear barrel face, or at least it does in my .223 F-TR rifle, so you need to fiddle the round part way into the chamber with the index finger. No great deal for F-Class, but undesirable for benchrest.

Owning both types and using both in competition, I like them equally well. In fact, I probably favour the LRPV RBLP version I have which in untouched factory gate form is one of the smoothest working actions I've ever owned. Performance-wise, cartridge feed into the chamber apart, there is nothing between them. Put either into a good stock and with a good barrel up front, and they will form the basis of an excellent precision rifle. A shooting acquaintance who is a toolsmith as well as part-time gunsmith says these actions are built to tiny tolerances and come out of the factory machined amazingly 'true'. He's built a .22BR on one and does very well in 600yd benchrest with it.

Laurie,
York, England
 
I've put 100 rounds through my LRPV RBLP in 6BR. I love the right bolt and left port. You just set the cartridge into the port, and can watch it to see it goes cleanly into the chamber. Some of my loads were only seated 0.070" into neck, so not up to rough treatment.

On the bolt movement, there does seem to be one hard point when you first pull down, and after that it goes real smooth and easy. The only problem with that is, that the AccuTrigger will lock up if you close the bolt too fast. I presume that is something I will get used to.

To be honest, the AccuTrigger is not quite as good as I expected it to be. I have a Savage rimfire that has a different version of the AccuTrigger, which works really well. While the rimfire is sold to go down to 2.5 lb. pull, it can be easily modified to be reliable under 1 lb. pull.

The centerfire Target AccuTrigger is said to be adjustable to 6 oz.. I have not checked it yet, but it would appear to be in that range. However, it is not all that reliable -- with the AccuTrigger frequently locking up. Tweaking the pull up helps some, but the main issue is closing the bolt too fast, or pushing sideways on the AccuTrigger leaf. You have to center your finger on the leaf and pull straight back until your finger reaches the trigger. The one upside is that it gives you dry fire practice to see if you are flinching and pulling off target. I will have to take a close look at this trigger to see if it can be tweaked to be more reliable.

Guy next to me at the range had a couple of Savages and several barrels. It seemed very slick to change barrels right at the range with only a barrel nut wrench. I can see that having potential in the future.
 
... however, it is not all that reliable -- with the AccuTrigger frequently locking up. Tweaking the pull up helps some, but the main issue is closing the bolt too fast, or pushing sideways on the AccuTrigger leaf. You have to center your finger on the leaf and pull straight back until your finger reaches the trigger.

In all honesty... as far as I'm concerned, that is the way you *should* be operating the trigger anyways. No 'dragging wood', 'pulling' at an angle, etc. A straight 'press' to the rear is the correct method. Just because you got away with it using other triggers didn't make it right ;) I can operate the bolt fast enough to make a target puller sweat in January, and keep my scorer hopping... without dropping the sear. I don't 'slap' the bolt closed; rather I decelerate it the last 1/4-1/2" of travel which seems to work just fine.

I highly doubt that enforcing proper form was anywhere on the agenda when Savage designed the Target Accutrigger, but it is a happy (as far as I'm concerned) circumstance.

YMMV,

Monte
 
Monte,

Have you had a chance to shoot Fred's Evolution trigger? What is your opinion of it for FClass? I agree that the AccuTrigger forces you to adapt some proper trigger pulling techniques. I have an Evolution put on my Target action that I use primarily for short range BR. However, I want to shoot it in FClass as well. In short BR, the lighter the better. What is considered ideally in FClass? Do you guys want a 2-4 oz trigger? Thanks, Tim
 
Monte is right If you do have trouble with the accutrigger locking up - it may well have resulted in a firing of a conventional light trigger anyway.
Alternatively if you really don't like it, one pin and it is gone and trigger is like any other high quality target trigger. I personally think a 6-8 ounce trigger for F class is all you will ever need but some like it very light - each to his own.
 
I have one of the SSS triggers on my RBLP 6 Dasher... it is set hairy light; I really need to go back and dial up the sear engagement a fuzz because once in a while it won't hold. No ADs as of yet, just a couple times of having to open the bolt and re-cock it. From what I gather, many of the F/Open crowd shoot dangerously close to 'free recoil' and as such like a *very* light trigger.

I'm pretty used to the Target Accutrigger, but mine is set probably closer to 10-12 ounces these days... originally I dialed it up to about 8 (got it off the ragged bottom edge of its range) which improved its manners immensely, and I think as it's worn in (5-6k rounds) its gotten a touch heavier. I will admit there are times when I'm milking that trigger for all its worth and I kind of wish it was a little lighter... but I'm not sure it would help my shooting any. I'm not exactly shooting free recoil in F/TR, so I don't think it would help as much.
 
memilanuk,
Are you saying that if you bump the accutrigger up just a little the sear won't drop as easilly as it does right out of the box? I have a f-class 6.5*284 savage I was shooting in 1000 yd br and trying to get quick shots off was allmost impossible as when you closed the bolt to fast the sear would drop then you would have to rerack the bolt and get lined back up on the target ??? Its no jewell trigger but other than the sear dropping on to fast of bolt close I like it.
Wayne.
 
Bozo699,
I have expereniced the samething with my target action. I had the trigger adjusted as light as it would go. I would have to take my time upon closing the bolt. I too adjusted it up just a tad and it helped. I'm not sure I want to keep the accutrigger in my br rig. I May drop in a rifle basix or have a SSS trigger installed. For now I'm going to just keep using the accutrigger. It isn't to the point yet that I'm ready to give up on it, and it is working ok at this time.
Mark
 
Hey guy'e I agree the accutrigger is a lot better than most factory triggers,and so far has been safe. they just can be flustrating when your trying get quick shots off and the sear falls,no biggy really probably safer going slower.
Wayne.
 

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