Savage target action accutrigger

[TroyMN]

I really like my LRP and LRPV. Love the light trigger pull. I have found it to lock up on me if I slap the bolt close. Very easy to get around shooting targets and such. There is a local match that is single feed rapid fire (timed) 5 targets. I forsee in the heat of the match getting a little over excited and trying to rush slapping the bolt close. That could cause me to lose.
My question is will cranking up the spring pressure reduce or eliminate the trigger locking? I already here the post just go get a Rifle basix trigger......
This is a once a year event and I have a 700 I could use instead.
I am entertaining the idea of a new trigger. But the Rifle basix model one or two? Also why not a Jewel or Timney?
Thanks
Troy

 

[Shynloco]

If I'm reading you right, that's a SAV2 trigger you are talking about getting to replace that POS Accutrigger in the Savage Target Action. With the SAV2, no lock up caused by the Sear Block when closing the bolt during a rapid fire exercise. Got it on two of my Savages and man are they SWEET!

Alex

P.S. To the best of my knowledge, neither Timney nor Jewell make a trigger for the Savage Target Action. Also, a friend who compete had Bob Green (master gunsmith) just go through his Model 12 Benchrest that has the Rifle Basix Sav2 trigger in it. He says that trigger now shoots as well and as lightly as his Jewell trigger on a high dollar custom build.

 

[snakepit]

I really like my LRP and LRPV. Love the light trigger pull. I have found it to lock up on me if I slap the bolt close. My question is will cranking up the spring pressure reduce or eliminate the trigger locking?

Yes increasing the spring pressure should help. The other thing I have found is when I have my Savage Target Action triggers set at very low pressure trigger settings, do not allow your finger to put any side pressure on the trigger when pulling it. Since I only shoot benchrest I have had no problems with the red blade accutrigger set at very light pull as I do not slam the bolt closed.

 

[Shynloco]

Increasing the spring pressure will also increase the amount of required trigger pull. That doesn't help if you want under 6 oz trigger pull but will stop the Sear Block activation when closing the bolt harder.

Alex

 

[wolley]

Do not replace it with a SAV2. The rifle Basix is a miserable pile of poorly manufactured steaming dog poo. Tighten up the accutrigger a bit and it will stop the lock up on bolt close.

 

[ShootDots]

Do not replace it with a SAV2. The rifle Basix is a miserable pile of poorly manufactured steaming dog poo. Tighten up the accutrigger a bit and it will stop the lock up on bolt close.

Wes, you have an uncanny way with words! LOL!!!

 

[SBS]

The SAV 2's seem to be somewhat erratic in quality control. The one I purchased had a lot of creep that could not be adjusted out of it. Did a lot of stoning on it and came out okay. The rest of my custom triggers on the Savages are the Competitor trigger from Sharp Shooter Supply. Never had a problem with them, but they don't get down below 10-12 ounces; however, nice, crisp and reliable.

 

[vlcakc]

I too got fed up with the Accutrigger on my Savage Target actions. Kept having to increase the weight of pull to keep the trigger from un-cocking when closing the bolt. Started at 4 oz, then 6 oz, then 10 oz and was still having problems. Took the rifle to my gunsmith to have a Rifle Basix installed. Although he has installed several Basix triggers he is convinced the SSS trigger is a better design than the Basix and recommended that instead. I agreed and he installed the SSS. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet because of the nasty weather, but it sure feels nice dry firing! Good luck whichever way you choose to go. Vic

 

[nhm16]

Do not replace it with a SAV2. The rifle Basix is a miserable pile of poorly manufactured steaming dog poo. Tighten up the accutrigger a bit and it will stop the lock up on bolt close.

Agreed, if you want a trigger that will go down to ounces in a Savage PTA, the best route is to send it in to SSS for their Evolution trigger, which is a three lever design like a Jewell. I really liked mine, it was as nice as my Jewell BR on my Panda.

 

[Jeff A]

I had the same problem. A little increase in the trigger pull weight and the problem completely went away.

 

[normmatzen]

Right, the SAV-2 will not lock up when you slam the bolt closed....It will fire the round! Neither the SAV-2 or the red blade Accutrigger like to be set at or close to the lower limit. There are guys, like Nat Lambeth, that can make the Accutrigger work very well.

 

[OIF/OEF]

If Jewell ever made a Savage trigger they wouldn't be able to keep up with the orders for sure. How hard are you slamming this thing closed, are you pimp slapping the bolt handle down or what. I kinda like the Savage trigger for that reason itll catch the slam fires. I have some Sav-2 triggers that I have adjusted down to far I guess and did get slam fires after a couple hundred rounds it seemed to "loosen" up. I let friends shoot my 6BR with the red blade and they cannot get it to fire maybe 1 out of 5 shots they hate it and are not used to it. Not sure where I went with this but hope it helps. I agree with the SSS trigger that Fred installs but his lead times can be a booger. If its an action that you aren't plan on using within the next year or so he does produce a fine product that is worth the wait


Very Respectfully

 

[MGYSGT]

It doesn't matter what trigger you have. If it is set in the ounces to release, it is liable to slam fire if you close the bolt too hard. The Savage doesn't let the firing pin hit the primer. That seems to be a plus to me.

 

[JAnderson94]

I have a SAV1 in a stevens200, one of the cleanest breaking triggers I have at 1lb 6oz. My Target accutrigger broke "softer" then that SAV1, so I installed a SAV2 in it. It is set at 11.5oz, and I can't tune the hair of creep out of it after I spent a good 2-3 hours adjusting it. I will take the stone to it after this upcoming season possibly, because its not making very good sear contact.

If I knew that trigger was as bad as it turned out to be, I would have looked at SSS or a SAV1 instead.

 

[CharlieNC]

When you pull the action to adjust the spring tension to alleviate the trigger locking, take a few minutes to gently polish the sear and trigger with a very fine stone and clean the assembly. Not much to it. Like any other trigger design, this will pay dividends. Then begin the process of slightly adjusting the spring and slamming the bolt to determine the best compromise. I had a slam fire on a Sav2 at the range and fortunately hit the target, and it will get your attention. Having many other triggers, I like the action of the Accutrigger and the protection against slam fires. Take a little time to practice dry firing and smoother bolt operation at the same time.

 

[snakepit]

Take a little time to practice dry firing and smoother bolt operation at the same time.

I agree with this statement. I have one accutrigger set at about 4 oz and another at 6 oz which are checked with my Lyman Digital Trigger Pull Gauge and have no trouble shooting with them. But you do have to acclimate yourself to the characteristics of this trigger when set this low. Do not slam the bolt and no side pressure on the trigger. At the range last week I let a friend of mine shoot my .308 with the red blade trigger set at 6 oz. He had trouble getting it to shoot and I had no trouble. I then did what I should have done first and that is let him dry fire it. After a little practice with the dry fire he went on and had no problems the rest of the day, in fact he did pretty good for his first time at 600 yds and a windy day.

 

[Gina1]

I have a Savage 12 and always had a problem (with a light trigger pull) dropping into safety (blade) with a hard bolt close. Finally took a good close look at how the accu-trigger was made. The body of the trigger is formed (at least on my rifle) out of one piece of steel. It is bent into a "U" shaped bracket. In that bracket the trigger, sear, and springs are mounted. On my trigger I found that the bracket was too wide and it allowed the trigger to move slightly from side to side. this caused a misalignment of the sear and trigger. Hence the sear would drop out, before the blade was out of the way.(a good thing-no slam fire).
What fixed the problem, was I shimmed the space between the trigger (brass shim washers) and the "U" bracket, so the trigger would not wiggle or move.
No more problem.

 

[memilanuk]

@ the BSWN I was squadded with a new shooter (new to F-class, lots of other competitive experience) on Friday (Palma Indiv match). We went to the pits first thing and he mentioned he'd had trouble the day before (team match for me, practice for him) with his gun locking up. Turned out it was a borrowed Savage 12 LRPV from ABM (one of their test guns). I asked if he normally shot Remingtons. 'Yes'. 'Stop slapping the bolt handle down!' After that, we had some more discussion about how to properly use the AccuTrigger so that it behaves (pulling straight back, so as to fully depress the safety blade first without side-pulling against the trigger shoe). No problems that day or the rest of the weekend that I know of.

I had another person talking to me about getting a new AccuTrigger from Savage (specifically why they won't ship certain parts to non-FFLs - sorry, outside my control). Said he had 'worn out' his original AccuTrigger and was unhappy with the SAV-2 he'd installed. Unfortunately I got called up for the prize raffle right then and never did find out how in the heck he managed to 'wear out' an AccuTrigger - I have more than a couple of them : and my #1 gun has been in use since 2006. Conservative estimate of somewhere north of 10,000rds thru the original parts (other than barrel, obviously), much of that in conditions where the gun is continually covered in dry gritty dust. I have to dial it back up when it gets a little hairy once every couple years, but other than that its been trouble free. I have another that gets a little heavier rather than lighter. Same fix - I keep the adjusting tool in my range bag. I've had to use it far more often for other people's guns than my own over the years.

I have SSS Competition and Evolution triggers - never had any problems. Had a SAV-2 - not a fan. Personally, I shoot a properly-adjusted AccuTrigger about as well as anything I've tried.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[wolley]

Monte,
That was me who wore out the accutrigger. What happened was the groove in the end of the finger lever that the sear engages got rounded and the trigger would not work unless weighted up around 2lbs. I don't have any stones that will fit in that groove and my options were deal with SSS(been there, ain't going back) or try the SAV2. The SAV2 turned out be a bad option. The design is sound. The execution is bad. I made it a lot better by gluing a piece of .010" SS shimstock, cut to shape, to the trigger to take out the side to side wobble of the trigger. This increased the consistency of the trigger but did not totally stop it from doing weird things. It either breaks perfectly clean or it has a little tiny catch in it that makes it feel like a two stage with a .005" 1st stage. Extremely frustrating.
All of this is caused by the sloppy fit of the pins in the trigger. The two sear surfaces do not hold a zero angle and when it gets shifted one way or the other it goes wonky.

 

[JDMock]

Arnold Jewell made two different light pull target triggers for the Savage action. The second one had a device similar to that of the Savage trigger in that it had a super light weight thin "trigger" in front of the regular trigger shoe that had to be depressed before the sear could be released. Arnold retired before the trigger was put into production and his son decided not to put it into production. It was a real "Jewel" and I wish it would have been made available to the Savage owners. The first prototype was scrapped because Arnold did not consider it absolutely safe. Good shooting.....James