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Savage small shank, large shank

I am new to savages, have owned a few in the past, but not much in the way of smithing them. I have built many hundreds of rifles, so have experience in the machining/metal work accuracy aspect.

My question is, is there a certain model that is a large shank and certian ones that are small, or is it a crap shoot and you will know when you have the action in hand. Secondly does it really matter one way or another

I just bought a 16 in the configuration I want, Stainless/Short action/DBM/push button bolt release in front of trigger guard/Round top receiver/accu-trigger. I have a thought of it being a swap barrel ammo burner mule. Make up some barrels in whatever caliber I find cheap surplus ammo in, along with some fun using barrels.
 
I'm not an authority on savages but I believe the Target actions and newer magnums are large shank while the rest being small shank and as far as one being better than the other I would not know.
 
Quote: From Sharpshooersupply:
In 2002 Savage offered rifles in the Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) and Remington Ultra Magnum (RUM) calibers. When these were finally in the catalog, there was a change made to the barrel shank diameter. Standard barrel shank diameter on standard calibers are 1.055" x 20tpi. On the new WSM, RUM, and SAUM calibers it is 1.120" x 20tpi. The barrel nut is also bigger in internal size, but is the same outer diameter and our barrel nut wrench will still fit. Savage also used this size of shank on the first version of the Model 10ML muzzleloader.
However, there were a few WSM and RUM rifles made on the standard barrel shank in the first production run. The best way to tell is to measure the barrel shank right against the nut. The larger barrel shank will have a step down approximately 1/8" ahead of the barrel nut. If your rifle has a serial number with a "G" prefix, it is most probable it will have the larger shank.
 
You may want to check out www.savageshooters.com web site.

To start , as mentioned the WSM and Run calibers used a large shank, and there are some of these guns with standard shanks as well. All of the target actions (12 LRPV , ETC) use a larger shank. Majority of the rest of the Savages use a standard shank, but there is a hitch. Savage is famous in making short runs of odd ball guns. When Savage discontinued the ML Muzeloaders, the re-configured the actions into centerfire guns. The ML used a large shank, and when they did this, they made model 12's and such in 223 (Most I have seen was this.) and other calibers with a large shank.

For the most part it doens't make a difference wich one you have. The only advantage I been told is that in the WSM, and RUN calibers brass life is better with a large shank, because the barrel has more material and expands less.
 
To start , as mentioned the WSM and Run calibers used a large shank, and there are some of these guns with standard shanks as well. All of the target The only advantage I been told is that in the WSM, and RUN calibers brass life is better with a large shank, because the barrel has more material and expands less.
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I'm not sure I can agree with the bbl expanding less.........as what is actually happening to those that have passed on that theory.

I would be more inclined to think that the normal mfrg tolerances encountered in chambering would be the culprit to brass expanding. This personal opinion from a past middle aged toolmaker - me. If anyone should have some factual info on this, I'd be glad to learn.

As far as bbls expanding, I think it was Mr. Calfee who acquainted me with the fact that cutting the muzzle for a brake would allow the bbl to permanently expand a tenth or two, therefor belling, therefore detracting from ultimate accuracy. This because metal was removed AFTER it was rifled.

When you stop and think about it, cutting metal is one of the most disruptive things you can do. Envision a plow in a field. By sheer force of weight and speed, horse/mule or tractor supplied, it is ripping the soil from where it is. Same when you lay a tool to metal, or wood - whatever. It causes an upset in the molecular structure, therefore the practice of annealing after machining and or cryoing. Gotta get those molecules to settle down, not be torqued out of position.
 
Frank De Hass says in his book "GunSmithing" the tenon thickness needs to be 2/3rds the diameter of the cartridge diameter. Winchester model 70 tenons are 1.", Remington 700 tenons are 1.0625", the same as small tenon Savages.
Nat Lambeth
 

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