Savage Shooters/Smiths....Do you free float the barrel nut?

[Kimber.204]

Hey all you Savage owners and Gun Smiths.....when you bed a Savage action do you bed the barrel nut as well or is it free floated?

I just assembled a BigHorn TL3 action (Remington pattern action that accepts Savage barrels) into a J Allen Stock. I would like to be able to swap barrels without removing the action from the stock, but the barrel nut (actually the American Rifle Company BARLOC) contacts the aluminum bedding block. So, before I get the dremel out, I want to understand what most people do with their Savages.

Please enlighten me.

Thanks,
Ross

 

[dsculley]

When I bed my rifle, I do free float the barrel nut. The barrel nut I have is not smooth, has notches for the wrench so if I do not free float it and I re-barrel then the nut may not wind up in the same place and the epoxy that had been in the notches would cause interference. I also make sure there is clearance at the back side of the nut. If you have one of the smooth nuts the only issue would be the back side of the nut. If you re-barrel and the nut is screwed a bit farther back than before that can be an issue if you don't have enough clearance.
Whether using epoxy or aluminum bedding blocks you want no stress on the receiver. If a part can move from install to install (like the barrel nut) then that part needs enough clearance not to cause an issue (add stress) if position of that part changes.

 

[M-61]

Free float

 

[Blackthorn]

Free float

 

[LA50SHOOTER]

Free Float

 

[Dusty Stevens]

No nut.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Bed the nut. Trim off the bedding that goes up into the slots. That way, if/when you swap barrels, makes no difference if the nut is in the same position or not.

 

[6MMsteve]

Free float

^^^^^^^^ yep

 

[swadiver]

free float, fer sure

 

[Dgd6mm]

Free Float.

 

[teele1]

everything north of the recoil lug floats as well as the tang

 

[spaniel]

everything north of the recoil lug floats as well as the tang

This

 

[hottotrot]

This

everything north of the recoil lug floats as well as the tang

So do you guys bed the lug into the stock too? On both the front and back of the lug?

 

[Dgd6mm]

So do you guys bed the lug into the stock too? On both the front and back of the lug?

Yes

 

[Texas10]

Back side only. The epoxy or any bedding material will shrink gradually with age and heat. The lug will change dimensions with temp, so if you trap it you may end up cracking the bedding, or stock. Either way, it builds stress because you're anchoring the action at the lug and transferring expansion movement to the pillar screws. JMOP, your mileage may vary.

 

[Dgd6mm]

You tape the front the sides and the bottom. The back of the lug is against the bedding. No trapping here.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Back side only. The epoxy or any bedding material will shrink gradually with age and heat. The lug will change dimensions with temp, so if you trap it you may end up cracking the bedding, or stock. Either way, it builds stress because you're anchoring the action at the lug and transferring expansion movement to the pillar screws. JMOP, your mileage may vary.

How hot you gettin that recoil lug and how?

 

[Texas10]

Mine doesn't get very hot. I tend to shoot and let it cool. Prolly the biggest temp change my actions sees is in the neighborhood of 80 to 100 degrees F.

Which brings about another interesting point. Generally speaking, my rifle lives in a climate controlled 75 F cabinet. I move it to the range in a climate controlled car, and then take it out and subject it to rapid warming to 100 to 105 F summertime temps here in central TX. And I think about all that wood, epoxy, steel and glass heating up at different rates. Sometimes I wonder if I should let the rifle temper for an hour before shooting. Any thoughts?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Mine doesn't get very hot. I tend to shoot and let it cool. Prolly the biggest temp change my actions sees is in the neighborhood of 80 to 100 degrees F.

Which brings about another interesting point. Generally speaking, my rifle lives in a climate controlled 75 F cabinet. I move it to the range in a climate controlled car, and then take it out and subject it to rapid warming to 100 to 105 F summertime temps here in central TX. And I think about all that wood, epoxy, steel and glass heating up at different rates. Sometimes I wonder if I should let the rifle temper for an hour before shooting. Any thoughts?

I know the scope will appreciate it but the action expansion is pretty much insignificant. Glue in br guns used to pop out of the bedding after being trapped in a car in the summer though

 

[Someoldguy]

Bed the nut. Trim off the bedding that goes up into the slots. That way, if/when you swap barrels, makes no difference if the nut is in the same position or not.

This only works if you use the same barrel nut and it is a concentric barrel nut. Which has proven to be a big 'if'.

YMMV.