Savage Primary Extraction

[shoot4fun]

Not sure which model he has but my shooting buddy has a Savage bolt gun with a 223 pre-fit barrel. Fired brass bolt lift is smooth but extraction is sticky to the point of being bothersome during a match.
In full disclosure the rifle has developed this quirk after he installed a new barrel last year but has been worsening.
I realize the problem could be in brass, or chamber but this rifle has several thousand rounds thru it.
Not really looking for answers from the forum on a problem that you can't hands-on diagnose but more a better knowledge of where prim are extraction is with a Savage and how it can be adjusted if necessary.

 

[tobnpr]

knowledge of where prim are extraction is with a Savage

Unlike M700 type actions where one ramp is integral with the receiver, on Savage one is part of the bolt handle and the other is part of the rear baffle:



With high round count, could be wear on the camming surfaces reducing the primary extraction.
Check the geometry of those parts.

 

[SKWERLZ]

Brass from old barrel used in new probably tighter chamber is a classic cause of clickers.
Or the die doesn’t jive with new chamber.

You can easily observe on a savage the extraction camming to see if timing is reasonable or wear is an issue.

 

[shoot4fun]

Brass from old barrel used in new probably tighter chamber is a classic cause of clickers.
Or the die doesn’t jive with new chamber.

You can easily observe on a savage the extraction camming to see if timing is reasonable or wear is an issue.

He did go with new brass for the new barrel so that isn't the issue.
Also, the die seems to match up to the chamber. Virgin brass and fired then sized brass measure out the same. He doesn't have a bore scope and I haven't looked with my Hawkeye but the brass shows no unusual markings.
This isn't a click issue. The bolt lift on a fired round is smooth and easy. The bolt goes all the way to the top of its stroke but it's just a good tug to extract it from chamber.

 

[AlNyhus]

I've shimmed quite a few of the baffles forward for more mechanical cam. Another thing to look at is the round ball under the extractor plate. Changing the factory .125 ball for a .140 can make a difference in extraction. -Al

 

[Ggmac]

It isnt an Axis is it ? If not Id clean the extractor and spring,check the rear baffle ( primary extraction cam ) and check the bolt handle tightness. If the handle becomes loose it could give extraction problems.

 

[Old Navy]

I've shimmed quite a few of the baffles forward for more mechanical cam. Another thing to look at is the round ball under the extractor plate. Changing the factory .125 ball for a .140 can make a difference in extraction. -Al

And that ball will go flying when you remove the extractor if you don't cover it.

 

[rjtfroggy]

And that ball will go flying when you remove the extractor if you don't cover it.

Always do it inside a gallon zip lock bag.

 

[SKWERLZ]

He did go with new brass for the new barrel so that isn't the issue.
Also, the die seems to match up to the chamber. Virgin brass and fired then sized brass measure out the same. He doesn't have a bore scope and I haven't looked with my Hawkeye but the brass shows no unusual markings.
This isn't a click issue. The bolt lift on a fired round is smooth and easy. The bolt goes all the way to the top of its stroke but it's just a good tug to extract it from chamber.

Did the brand new brass give issues or just after a few firings?

 

[shoot4fun]

Did the brand new brass give issues or just after a few firings?

New brass chambered perfectly (as does brass with several cycles) but still had the issue after initially fired.

 

[Riesel]

I would examine that fired extracted brass closely, maybe even use a magnify glass.
Sounds to me that there are some small grooves in the chamber causing the brass
to hang there. A look at the chamber for smoothness would be helpful. Also might try
using some 350 to 400 grit sand paper to hone that chamber a mite.

 

[memilanuk]

Quick and easy way to diagnose is to get a set of feeler gauges from the hardware store and start inserting them as shims between the rear of the receiver and the front of the rear baffle. It should push the baffle back so as to cause the ramp on the bolt handle to start engaging the cam ramp on the rear baffle. If that makes it start extracting the case, now you know.

There are ways to make a more permanent fix, from buying a handful of new rear baffles and finding one that works better, to glueing shim stock to the front face of the baffle, to inserting two or three jack screws in the front face of the baffle, to shortening the notch in the bolt body (not recommended, due to bolt body hardness).

 

[shoot4fun]

Quick and easy way to diagnose is to get a set of feeler gauges from the hardware store and start inserting them as shims between the rear of the receiver and the front of the rear baffle. It should push the baffle back so as to cause the ramp on the bolt handle to start engaging the cam ramp on the rear baffle. If that makes it start extracting the case, now you know.

This is where we'll start for sure. I already own feeler gauges so no hardware store trip needed. Seems like $300 every time I go to Home Depot these days. Not complaining about their pricing it's just I always go for one thing and buy four or five.

 

[MGYSGT]

I had one like the one you are talking about. Turned out the chamber had tiny horizontal scratches not seen by the eye. After about 3 firings I had to small base resize the case to keep them from sticking. That is when I saw the rings near the base of the cartridge. Polished the chamber but it didn't work. So cut it off and rechambered. Problem solved.