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Savage pillars

think 1” long pillars will be long enough? I was at a local hardware store and had some steel spacers... 1/4” id x1” long... I picked up a couple
 
They're short but you can make them work. Epoxy them flush with the bottom of the stock and let them cure. If the pillars are snug in their holes you can plug the top of the pillar holes and fill the top remainder of the hole now and drill out the hole following the pillar hole from the bottom. Your going to have to open the 1/4 inch pillar holes eventually so now would be a good time so you can have some room to center the action.

Screw two 4x40 flat head allen head screws into the bottom of the action channel in front and rear to set the height of the action. They act like a mini machinist jack. Dab a puddle of bedding compound around each screw jack and action screw hole and set the action with headless 1/4x28 bolts in place to position the action. Wrap tape around the barrel at the front of barrel channel to center and to coincide with the 4x40 screw heights.

Push the action down to the top of the 4x40 screw tops and snug only with a nut on the rear action screw or surgical tubing or bicycle inner tube. Let that cure. Proceed from there as usual.
 
Texas 10 hit nail on head Stocky stocks,the rear pillar on savage is Notched,If you bed unnotched rear piller,you will have to try and cut it down in stock,NOT FUN
 
Yup, forgot about the evil half pillar on Savages. A mill solves that issue but most don't have that option...... steel pillars not so much. I agree not an efficient use of the steel hardware spacers.
 
I bed the action into the stock, then bed the pillars into the stock. The rear one is a bit tricky. Some eliminate the magazine clip altogether and secure the magazine another way, or cut the ears off that sit ontop the notched pillar.
 
There should be pilot holes already in the stock. I used a drill that fits the hole closely and mounted in a drill press to align and clamp the stock under the drill. Use a suitable wood drill (flat type) to counter bore the hole slightly deeper than the large head of the pillar. I don't use a Forstner bit, they are designed to pull themselves into the project and will frequently overbore the hole unless you are using a milling machine.

Then with the appropriate size bit, drill the through hole to slightly oversize (a slip fit) so there's room for epoxy between the pillar and stock. You'll eventually bed the pillar to the stock after the action is bedded. I wax the pillars and bolts as I bed so that the pillars can be removed later and the bolt won't be glued into the pillar.

YMMV
 
they are too short, off to the farm for re purposing they go... back to drawing board.... im not worried about notching out the rear pillar... im more worried about proper length... right now it looks like im buying some tubing and making my own length..
 
I make my pillars out of aluminum arrow shafts. Easy to cut at a rough length and easy to file to final fit. Easy to notch for the back pillar on a savage with a Dremel tool. I use a 3/8 drill to open the holes in the stock and epoxy in place. I then do my bedding job as normal. The only problem is aluminum arrows are getting hard to come by anymore.
 
Threaded "lamp rod" also works pretty good, especially for the rear in tight quarters. Drill/file the holes bigger, secure/bolt them (the pillars) to the bottom of the action, set them into the bedding with the proper spacing at the barrel and tang. When set and dried, pull the action then bed the rest of/whole thing. Don't forget LOTS of mold release. Kiwi clear shoe polish/wax works good. Works for me but YMMV.;)
 
why go to all the work of makeing cobbed pillars;when you can buy Savage Steel Pillars,the Rear one Notched for$14-$15 from Stockys Stocks,No drilling,shapeing,sanding,etc,etc,etc.Just Epoxy in place,It aint Rocket Science
 
the biggest reason is they do not tell me the length.. so i have no idea if they are long enough either... so i just put an order in for some aluminum tubing that is plenty to custom fit...
 

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