Savage Factory Barrel Issues and cleaning…

[DLT]

I have a factory savage rifle that is pretty finicky. It shoots well just doesn’t shoot well long. It makes it about 75 rounds before it quits grouping, and once stripped and whistle clean 10 rounds to shrink the groups back up. The barrel coppers pretty bad. I’m wondering if I can get most or all of the carbon out and leave some of the copper in there to cut down on major cleaning time every 75 rounds and burning 10 to get it back. I have a number of cleaning solutions on hand just don’t know exactly which ones to use or how much. I have learned Hoppes no. 9 will eat copper if you give it hours to work. Sweets doesn’t take long at all. I’d like to find a good balance say a mild cleaning after 40 rounds only taking some of the copper out

 

[jelenko]

What would happen if you just cleaned the carbon out and not get it squeeky clean?

 

[David Christian]

Sounds like that barrel might be towards the end of its life it it keeps coppering that bad…

 

[Bill K]

You just about answered your own question. Try a couple trial methods and see what your barrel likes, to stay in the good group range.

 

[Forum Boss]

Get rid of that Barrel!

This site only exists because I got fed up with a Savage factory .260 Rem barrel that fouled like yours, tossed crazy flyers and had POI shifts.

I replaced it with a PacNor Prefit 6BR that shot in the high ones immediately, set a range record on Steel at 600, and requires virtually no brushing.

That barrel and rifle inspired me to start 6mmbr.com 19 years ago.

You are wasting time and money with that barrel — send it to a junkyard.

 

[DLT]

What would happen if you just cleaned the carbon out and not get it squeeky clean?

I have did that it only bought me a few more rounds.

Sounds like that barrel might be towards the end of its life it it keeps coppering that bad…

It has 250 rounds down the pipe. I hope it ain’t ready to go

Get rid of that Barrel!

This site only exists because I got fed up with a Savage factory .260 Rem barrel that fouled like yours, tossed crazy flyers and had POI shifts.

I replaced it with a PacNor Prefit 6BR that shot in the high ones immediately, set a range record on Steel at 600, and requires virtually no brushing.

That barrel and rifle inspired me to start 6mmbr.com 19 years ago.

You are wasting time and money with that barrel — send it to a junkyard.

I have been lucky as to no poi shifts yet. When it’s in it’s happy state it will pretty consistently shoot 3/8” groups at 200yds and eat up a 8” plate at 800 just recreational shooting with friends

 

[243winxb]

Tubb final finish bore lapping system, may be worth a try?

 

[DLT]

Tubb final finish bore lapping system, may be worth a try?

I have looked at that route. Seems like it’s a 50/50 split. Those it helped and those who wouldn’t dare try it, I know how my luck is. I wonder if I could just run 2 or 3 of the finer grit bullets down the tube or maybe just one of the course grit bullets then a couple fine grits. Not do the whole regimen

 

[243winxb]

Follow directions. Of the 2 users i know of, both said it helped. Made an inprovement.

 

[SKWERLZ]

Get rid of that Barrel!

This site only exists because I got fed up with a Savage factory .260 Rem barrel that fouled like yours, tossed crazy flyers and had POI shifts.

I replaced it with a PacNor Prefit 6BR that shot in the high ones immediately, set a range record on Steel at 600, and requires virtually no brushing.

That barrel and rifle inspired me to start 6mmbr.com 19 years ago.

You are wasting time and money with that barrel — send it to a junkyard.

I remember the difference I got when I swapped out the 260 savage barrel for a 260 Shilen prefit.

OP
You can try iosso on that barrel when cleaning and lock eze after you clean to minimize fouling time.

 

[DLT]

I remember the difference I got when I swapped out the 260 savage barrel for a 260 Shilen prefit.

OP
You can try iosso on that barrel when cleaning and lock eze after you clean to minimize fouling time.

I have jb the blue label I have used on it before, it does wonders for the carbon fouling. Is iosso a little more abrasive ?

 

[SKWERLZ]

I have jb the blue label I have used on it before, it does wonders for the carbon fouling. Is iosso a little more abrasive ?

I’m not sure if it’s any more abrasive.
Since you have tried JB on it and it’s still fouling fast it’s probably just one of those barrels.

 

[DLT]

I’m not sure if it’s any more abrasive.
Since you have tried JB on it and it’s still fouling fast it’s probably just one of those barrels.

Lock eze ? How many patches after a cleaning ?

 

[DShortt]

It sounds to me like you'd be time and money ahead to rebarrel it unless you just want to experiment and see what you can do with it. Savage prefits can be had from many sources for a very reasonable price.

 

[FNSafari]

It doesn't have to be a Savage to experience a bad barrel. I bought a Sako 85 .223 heavy barrel a couple years ago and bore scoped the barrel. The inside looked like a moon scape....tool marks, inclusions, gouges...simply awful. After a year's wait for a replacement rifle, Beretta finally refunded my full purchase price. Took a while but they owned up to their problem. I never in my wildest dreams would have thought Sako would sell a higher end rifle with a junk barrel like that. Reason enough get a bore scope.

 

[Krogen]

It sounds to me like you'd be time and money ahead to rebarrel it unless you just want to experiment and see what you can do with it. Savage prefits can be had from many sources for a very reasonable price.

Contact @urbanrifleman for a Savage pre-fit. I've been shooting one of his barrels on a Savage F T/R and I'm well-pleased. A couple of buds have several of his barrels and they're also pleased.

 

[SKWERLZ]

Lock eze ? How many patches after a cleaning ?

Last patch or two

 

[K22]

Barrels, in my experience, can be individuals meaning sometimes they require different approaches.

You said you tried only removing the carbon and that "brought you only a few more rounds." Does that mean you extended the acceptable accuracy round count a few beyond 75?

In your carbon removal process, do you use a bronze brush?

In the dozen or so rifles I own, none of them respond well to harsh removal of copper. When I do that, I get first shot flyers, and require 5 to 10 rounds, depending on the rifle, to reestablish desired POI. All respond well to removing the carbon. Some require more frequent carbon removal than others. Most general solvents will remove some copper, but I found, in my rifles, that leaving some of it in place retains accuracy and most importantly, first shot POI. I know this goes against popular positions on cleaning, but I can only report what I have experienced.

I would consider a round count of 75 with acceptable accuracy acceptable. You may want to experiment cleaning every 60 rounds with a general solvent that focuses primarily on carbon like Hoppe's 9, Shooter's Choice, or Bore Tech C4. Use a bronze brush with about 15 passes, refresh the brush after 5 passes. I can PM you my procedure, it's quite simple, doesn't take a lot of time and works for me.

But as others have stated, a barrel replacement may be the prudent option given the price of components these days. Personally, I have a hard time giving up on a rifle and sometimes that drives me too far into the "rabbit hole" without acceptable results and I end up re-barrelling the rifle.

 

[leakeyjohn]

I have two approaches (1) for a humting rifle I have accepted what it is or to shooters choice and for (2) accuracy rifles I replace the barrel which quickly resolves the issue yes costs more

 

[DLT]

Barrels, in my experience, can be individuals meaning sometimes they require different approaches.

You said you tried only removing the carbon and that "brought you only a few more rounds." Does that mean you extended the acceptable accuracy round count a few beyond 75?

In your carbon removal process, do you use a bronze brush?

In the dozen or so rifles I own, none of them respond well to harsh removal of copper. When I do that, I get first shot flyers, and require 5 to 10 rounds, depending on the rifle, to reestablish desired POI. All respond well to removing the carbon. Some require more frequent carbon removal than others. Most general solvents will remove some copper, but I found, in my rifles, that leaving some of it in place retains accuracy and most importantly, first shot POI. I know this goes against popular positions on cleaning, but I can only report what I have experienced.

I would consider a round count of 75 with acceptable accuracy acceptable. You may want to experiment cleaning every 60 rounds with a general solvent that focuses primarily on carbon like Hoppe's 9, Shooter's Choice, or Bore Tech C4. Use a bronze brush with about 15 passes, refresh the brush after 5 passes. I can PM you my procedure, it's quite simple, doesn't take a lot of time and works for me.

But as others have stated, a barrel replacement may be the prudent option given the price of components these days. Personally, I have a hard time giving up on a rifle and sometimes that drives me too far into the "rabbit hole" without acceptable results and I end up re-barrelling the rifle.

Yea. Accuracy went to pot around the 60 round mark. I do use a bronze brush to attack carbon as I have learned with a bore scope a nylon brush only gets the loose stuff. I’m thinking about using no. 9 for all the carbon and copper and a few passes of sweets to help. Hoppes will get copper but I have no idea how long it would take to use only it