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Savage ejector question

I've had the same issue also, but as mentioned was an ejection issue, not extraction. Never had an extraction issue with a Savage action.AAnd this would be the first i've heard of an extraction issue with a Savage action.

Issues i've had were before i found out about periodic cleaning & lubrication of the ejector.
Namely gak buildup.
I'm surprised sometimes how much gak comes out when i remove the ejector & clean the hole out!
 
Because, at least on the Sav 10/110 platform, the extractor and ejector work somewhat in tandem. Or perhaps more accurately, the extractor *can* affect the operation of the ejector.

If the extractor merely hooks the rim, it will 'extract' the case from the chamber. But unless it's somewhat bottomed out in the case extractor groove against metal, when the case is withdrawn far enough that it is no longer supported by the chamber i.e. into the larger area of the bolt raceway - the ejector will push the case further to the side, and the *extractor* will lose it's grip on the rim, and drop the case. Pretty much exactly as the OP observed.

Sometimes, just replacing the factory 0.125" detent ball with a 0.140 (9/64") ball from your local Ace hardware store will keep the extractor piece centered up better in it's groove in the bolt face, and solve the problem.

Sometimes undercutting the lip on the extractor helps as well, as noted by others.

Sometimes the brand of brass comes into play. If you look at the SAAMI drawings for the diameter of the case extractor groove, it shows as "0.409 -20", so 0.389-0.409. The vast majority of brass that I have in my reloading stash - Lapua, Federal, Remington, Winchester, Norma, etc. measure between 0.403 and 0.406, across all brands. Except Hornady. The Hornady 6.5CM brass I had meaured between 0.391, and 0.397 - so technically within SAAMI spec. But in my testing... under 0.393", and it wouldn't eject, but drop just like the OP described (which is why I asked @spudgun if he was using Hornady brass). Every time. Over 0.395", it ejected reliably. In between... maybe yes, maybe no, depending on how you stroked the bolt and if you were just lucky or not.

Savage did take some measures to address this on later guns... my original 12 LRP had the same extractor/ejector as my 12 FTR and F-class guns. But my later 10 BA Stealth has a different ejector and extractor. IIRC, they found that the ones they had worked out for the short/fat .300WSM solved the problem - the extractor is cut slightly differently, and the ejector pin has a beveled cut to the face, and extends further. Brass pretty much just flies out of the gun, like it should. Still uses that stupid 0.125" ball, rather than a 0.140... so it can still be 'improved' a little there.

Yes, the wire spring that Savage uses for the ejector seems notoriously weak in that it takes about one good hit from a hot load and it's done. Their solution? Put a tail on the ejector, so it can't collapse the spring, rather than use a better spring :rolleyes:

Good explanation.

I am using Star line brass
 
Use a Fastenal 3.5 mm/.14" ball bearing. Or Ace Hardware 9/64" ball bearing. I put them in my Savages and it cleared up all extraction/ejection issues.

Edit: Like everything else, I got mine off Amazon..
 
I installed the kit from SSS (all but the spring), it still doesn’t work so maybe I’ll install the spring one of these days
 
Well, everyone, thanks for your suggestions.

I just received 2 ejector kits an installed the first on my 6.5 CM. Everything went perfect.

Now the brass is held in place untill the neck clears the receiver opening.

Now for the second one.

Every thing went great with the new ejector.

Now while installing the new .140" ball and new extractor, the little ball bearing went (you guessed it) ping and gone.

After crawling on my hands and knees with a big magnet, no luck finding it.

With the hardware store closed I decided to use the factory ball with the new extractor design.

It works great too.

I think the design and cut of the extractor does the job.

If I can't find a new .140" ball I think I'll just leave it.

Thanks for all your suggestion.

Good info on this forum.

Larry
 
Just got the replacement extractor, spring, and ball from Savage. Replaced everything and it works fine. Interesting thing is the extra they sent us different than the original one. The new one has a small “lip” that engages the rim. The original one was smooth. I guess that’s why it was releasing every case early. At least they sent the parts free of charge and it works properly now.
 
Well, everyone, thanks for your suggestions.

I just received 2 ejector kits an installed the first on my 6.5 CM. Everything went perfect.

Now the brass is held in place untill the neck clears the receiver opening.

Now for the second one.

Every thing went great with the new ejector.

Now while installing the new .140" ball and new extractor, the little ball bearing went (you guessed it) ping and gone.

After crawling on my hands and knees with a big magnet, no luck finding it.

With the hardware store closed I decided to use the factory ball with the new extractor design.

It works great too.

I think the design and cut of the extractor does the job.

If I can't find a new .140" ball I think I'll just leave it.

Thanks for all your suggestion.

Good info on this forum.

Larry

I had to buy a hundred of them when all I wanted was a few, but the cost for 1 is 90% the cost of 100. Just google 9/64 steel balls.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=9/64+steel+balls&i=industrial&ref=nb_sb_noss&tag=accuratescom-20
 
Lol. Savage has an unwritten guarantee that their rifles will do just what is stated above. My first was a model 12 R brand new and it still does this 40 years later. New extractor and ball and spring. Nothing. My others do the same thing. Ed k
 
I just installed a ejector with the leg and a new spring in my .308. It run great, it will eject loaded 185 Berger's flawlessly.
 
Well, first time using this gun after I replaced the extractor and larger ball.

Some of my issues have gone but still have the issue of not pulling and ejection of a spent case.

The problems are when I slowly pull the empty case out. It will pull about 3/4 of the way out of the chamber and then come off the bolt face.

I then need to lock the bolt down and then eject faster.

I am shooting this gun on bench rest so I want to slowly remove the case so I can grab it and put it in my cartridge case.

when I got home tonight I removed the extractor spring measured it and then streched it .03" longer and re installed.

Now it seems to work good on a empty case on my work bench. Will see what happens in the field.
 
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