Savage ejector question

[spudgun]

On both my 6mm and 6,5 CM with a savage action. When I bench shoot and slowly eject the fired round the extractor will pull the round out but sometimes fail to throw it out of the receiver.

I'm thinking that it may be caused because the empty case coming out reaches a point when neck just gets past the chamber and into the large receiver area then it tilts and causes the rim out come off the ejector.

It happens on both my Savage actions sometimes.

Not a big deal because I just flick it out of the receive with my finger, but would like to have not to do this.

If I eject fast it will work everytime, it only occurs during a slow ejection.

I have cleaned the extractor and it appears to be working correctly.

Increase the extractor spring tension??

 

[Poor Shot 65]

I would purchase a new spring ..

Thanks

Adam

 

[Iowa Fox]

I think its probably your extractor. Some guys use a little bigger ball to solve the problem

 

[swadiver]

I think its probably your extractor. Some guys use a little bigger ball to solve the problem

bigger balls can solve a lot of problems, eh?

 

[spudgun]

I think its probably your extractor. Some guys use a little bigger ball to solve the problem

I saw that in a listing for new spring and ball.

Thanks

 

[Bill K]

I think its probably your extractor. Some guys use a little bigger ball to solve the problem

Savage shack and maybe Brownell's sell a upgrade extractor kit, with does include a large ball bearing and improved extractor arm. this will help with that issue, but also you need to be somewhat more aggressive with pulling the bolt back also.

 

[Coonman300]

I’ve got one doing similar stuff except it releases every spent casing while working the bolt and most of the time I have to remove the magazine to get case out. A real PITA. I just ordered replacement from Savage at no cost. I found a vendor...maybe Swift shooting supply?...that carries a souped up replacement for $20. I’ll get it if the factory replacement doesn’t work.

 

[memilanuk]

Are you using Hornady brass?

 

[Texas10]

If you're using both rifles for bench shooting, I'd suggest you remove the ejector altogether. I've done that to most of my Savages and I have to say it made shooting much more enjoyable. Just pick the brass off the bolt head, return it to the box. No more chasing down your carefully prepared brass.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Try your local Bicycle shop for ball bearings. Bulk, used in wheels.
Pocket magnet, zip lock sandwich bag, couple of $$, you're in business.

 

[Dgd6mm]

The extractor bearing size you are looking for is 0.140. Gun Shack out of Texas sells replacement parts. The bearings can be bought in several different places as already mentioned.

 

[std7mag]

So i'm sitting here, scratching my head, wondering why all the advice about a larger ball and such for the extractor, when they are having an ejector issue?

Remove the bolt head from the bolt. Use an empty casing to hold the ejector plunger down. Drive the pin out. Remove ejector & spring.. Clean hole thoroughly. Little WD40 on new spring, re-install ejector.
D U N Done!

 

[DHuffman]

So i'm sitting here, scratching my head, wondering why all the advice about a larger ball and such for the extractor, when they are having an ejector issue?

Remove the bolt head from the bolt. Use an empty casing to hold the ejector plunger down. Drive the pin out. Remove ejector & spring.. Clean hole thoroughly. Little WD40 on new spring, re-install ejector.
D U N Done!

Stretch the old spring a tiny bit while it's out for the cleaning and it will fix the problem. I don't even bother removing the bolt head from the body, not neccessary.

 

[Dgd6mm]

I'd personally rebuild the ejector first! I was rolling with the flow. Whenever any of my bolts drop brass this cures it. I firmly believe for as cheap as it is, rebuilt the entire bolt every 2000-3000 rounds or barrel whichever comes first. This way during Competition you don't have to worry about failure to eject.

 

[JOSHUA EARLE]

I had a similar problem with my Savage Tactical rifle. it just didn't want to eject brass after firing. I removed everything, cleaned it all and reassembled. Worked for a little while. The problem with mine turned out to be the extractor was not getting enough bite on the rim of the case and was letting go of the case as soon as the case mouth cleared the chamber. Every single time without fail.

What I did to remedy this is to remove the extractor. Then I ground the underside of the extractor while keeping the curved contour. I removed just .002" of material and I have not had a single failure to eject since..

 

[dfrosch]

The extractor bearing size you are looking for is 0.040. Gun Shack out of Texas sells replacement parts. The bearings can be bought in several different places as already mentioned.

Isn't it 0.140"?

 

[Stickler]

When bench shooting a Savage action, bolt lift can become an issue during the extraction. I've had to both increase the extractor tension with the kit from Gun Shack AND install a bolt lift reduction bearing and spacer from the Stockade ( http://www.stockadegunstocks.com/4.html ) or Grimstod ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-Bol...011740?hash=item3b37217bdc:g:UZgAAOSwSvVdUK6s ). The added control of the cocking/extraction sequence will make a difference.

 

[shoot4fun]

So i'm sitting here, scratching my head, wondering why all the advice about a larger ball and such for the extractor, when they are having an ejector issue?

I had the exact same issue with a brand NEW Savage so I called Savage for help. THEY sent me a new EXTRACTOR and it FIXED the issue.
MAYBE that is why there are so many talking about extractor instead of ejector?
It usually is an extractor issue.

 

[memilanuk]

So i'm sitting here, scratching my head, wondering why all the advice about a larger ball and such for the extractor, when they are having an ejector issue?

Because, at least on the Sav 10/110 platform, the extractor and ejector work somewhat in tandem. Or perhaps more accurately, the extractor *can* affect the operation of the ejector.

If the extractor merely hooks the rim, it will 'extract' the case from the chamber. But unless it's somewhat bottomed out in the case extractor groove against metal, when the case is withdrawn far enough that it is no longer supported by the chamber i.e. into the larger area of the bolt raceway - the ejector will push the case further to the side, and the *extractor* will lose it's grip on the rim, and drop the case. Pretty much exactly as the OP observed.

Sometimes, just replacing the factory 0.125" detent ball with a 0.140 (9/64") ball from your local Ace hardware store will keep the extractor piece centered up better in it's groove in the bolt face, and solve the problem.

Sometimes undercutting the lip on the extractor helps as well, as noted by others.

Sometimes the brand of brass comes into play. If you look at the SAAMI drawings for the diameter of the case extractor groove, it shows as "0.409 -20", so 0.389-0.409. The vast majority of brass that I have in my reloading stash - Lapua, Federal, Remington, Winchester, Norma, etc. measure between 0.403 and 0.406, across all brands. Except Hornady. The Hornady 6.5CM brass I had meaured between 0.391, and 0.397 - so technically within SAAMI spec. But in my testing... under 0.393", and it wouldn't eject, but drop just like the OP described (which is why I asked @spudgun if he was using Hornady brass). Every time. Over 0.395", it ejected reliably. In between... maybe yes, maybe no, depending on how you stroked the bolt and if you were just lucky or not.

Savage did take some measures to address this on later guns... my original 12 LRP had the same extractor/ejector as my 12 FTR and F-class guns. But my later 10 BA Stealth has a different ejector and extractor. IIRC, they found that the ones they had worked out for the short/fat .300WSM solved the problem - the extractor is cut slightly differently, and the ejector pin has a beveled cut to the face, and extends further. Brass pretty much just flies out of the gun, like it should. Still uses that stupid 0.125" ball, rather than a 0.140... so it can still be 'improved' a little there.

Yes, the wire spring that Savage uses for the ejector seems notoriously weak in that it takes about one good hit from a hot load and it's done. Their solution? Put a tail on the ejector, so it can't collapse the spring, rather than use a better spring

 

[Rich Lee]

I had a similar problem with my Savage Tactical rifle. it just didn't want to eject brass after firing. I removed everything, cleaned it all and reassembled. Worked for a little while. The problem with mine turned out to be the extractor was not getting enough bite on the rim of the case and was letting go of the case as soon as the case mouth cleared the chamber. Every single time without fail.

What I did to remedy this is to remove the extractor. Then I ground the underside of the extractor while keeping the curved contour. I removed just .002" of material and I have not had a single failure to eject since..

I remove the ejector spring and ball from all my savages so my brass dosent end up in the dirt somewhere. Just pluck the empty out with my fingers but all of mine are single shot actions. works great. In the prarie dog fields I don't want to shoot to fast anyway because I already have two barrels decorating my reloading room and don't need any more.