savage bolt head question

[brian923]

i orderd a new bolt head from savage. when it arrived, i got all the pieces parts swapped from one to another. when i went to put her in, i noticed that there is a notch on the old bolt head that alines the bolt head with the bolt body. the new piece does not have this notch? what should i do? should i notch the new bolt head...or should i remove the knoby like piece inside the bolt body? i personaly think that the first is better, but think that the second would be easier. but, want to know if both would work, or if only one would work. ,with the second, i think that the knob on the inside is for keeping the bolt head from spinning to far? just a guess though.) thanks for the advice

 

[2644ever]

It got something to do with the same bolt head being used for right and left hand action, I believe...
So by all means, just mill a notch at the right place,double check to make sure you're not having it 180° wrong!) and enjoy your new part.Above all, do not remove ANYTHING from the bolt body.

 

[NorCalMikie]

I was told by Fred at Sharp Shooter Supply to "remove" the high spot in the bolt body and that's what I did. The high spot was to keep folks from putting the bolt head in upside down. Once the "bump" is removed,any Savage bolt head will slide in.
I used a very small grinding stone on a air die grinder but a small electric hand held tool will do the job. Just takes a little longer. HTH.

 

[JayIdaho]

The bold heads are pretty hard. I think that it would be difficult to mill a slot in one of them. The new bolt bodies don't have the "bump" in them, old ones did.

 

[Rustystud]

The alignment bump on the old bolt bodies is easily removed. Or you can mill a slot in the bolt head. If you do give it a little extra space on all sides of the bump so your bolt want be in a constant bind and will float. You don't want to defeat the floating bolt head.
Rustystud

 

[brian923]

i think that the "remove the bump in the bolt body's" have it. thats what i am going to do. thanks guys, brian

 

[brian923]

another problem

i took the bump off the inside of the bolt body. worked beautifully. but........
when i went to install the firing pin assembly into the bolt body. it STOPPED!!!
i think that i got the wrong bolt head. i looked at each of the heads and seen that the fp hole that goes through the old bolt head is bigger than the one going through the new one. the old firing pin assembly is out of a 110 30.06, and measures .141" at its thick part, and then goes down to .063" at the striking point. can i buy a new firing pin,I'm guessing the one called the "small firing pin" and use the old spring? will this work with the bolt body i have? ,i am also guessing that the bolt body hasn't change to much, and that it would, but i want to make sure.)can i lathe turn the old firing pin to make it work? thanks so much guys...brian

 

[brian923]

took a look on midwayusa.com and seen that they have a 30.06/magnum firing pin that would work. i guess that i jumped the gun a little......
anyways, i see that all you have to do is screw in both the ends with the spring in the middle. how do you determine the right length? would you just screw in the back part until there is adequate amount of pin sticking out the positively engage the primer? Brian

 

[BillPa]

Brian, setting up the firing pin is pretty simple. First, you set the firing pin protrusion.

The adjustment-stop nut is locked in place with a lock washer. Just put the pin assembly together so there is some tension on the spring. Put the pin in a vise then set the bolthead over it and measure the protrusion. Compress the spring enough to allow the lock washer to disengage the stop nut and make any adjustments. I set my Savage pins .035-.040".

The next step, adjust the cocking piece pin stop position.

Install the bolthead, insert the firing pin making sure the pin protrudes through the bolt face. With the firing pin pushed all the way forward, adjust the cocking piece so there is .005"-.010" clearance between the cocking piece pin and the bottom of the cocking ramp. When the firing pin is released, you want the adjustment-stop nut stopping the forward travel, not the cocking piece pin. You may need to tweak the nut a bit t align the cocking piece sleeve and the hole for the cocking piece pin. Finally, reinstall the bolt assembly screw and your ready to go.

Bill