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Savage Barrel Timing

Toolbreaker

Gold $$ Contributor
Hi guys. I'm right at finishing a Savage build, and have run into a minor aggravation. I'm using a factory Model 12 .223 varmint barrel and when headspacing the barrel, the factory barrel markings are out of index to the action. Obvious answer is to just ignore it, but... ;). My question is, instead of running a chamber reamer deeper, then taking a cut off of the breech end the same amount (so to be able to screw the barrel in further), could I set up the bolt face & take a cut off of the back of the bolt lugs to accomplish the same? A little rough math shows that I need to move the barrel in about .033" to time it. Is this too much to cut from the lugs, as far as lug integrity? Anything I missed, or thoughts on this? Thanks.

P.S. Reason I ask is because I don't have a chamber reamer or holder, but do have a lathe to do so.
 
You will lose primary extraction , possibly have bolt handle hit receiver notch, the bolt thickness is diff for diff calib. A magnum is thicker than a non mag a 338 lap is thicker still , meaning the factory made them thicker for a reason , probably pressure. You will be reducing the most important part and may be very close to breaking thru to the ejector hole. Dont do it .
You could always get a diff rec. Lug . Or face the lug .
 
Toolbreaker said:
Hi guys. I'm right at finishing a Savage build, and have run into a minor aggravation. I'm using a factory Model 12 .223 varmint barrel and when headspacing the barrel, the factory barrel markings are out of index to the action. Obvious answer is to just ignore it, but... ;). My question is, instead of running a chamber reamer deeper, then taking a cut off of the breech end the same amount (so to be able to screw the barrel in further), could I set up the bolt face & take a cut off of the back of the bolt lugs to accomplish the same? A little rough math shows that I need to move the barrel in about .033" to time it. Is this too much to cut from the lugs, as far as lug integrity? Anything I missed, or thoughts on this? Thanks.

P.S. Reason I ask is because I don't have a chamber reamer or holder, but do have a lathe to do so.
Savage barrels are chambered with .028 off a Head space gauge from the back of the barrel to the back of a head space gauge. .028 mite not be the right number but it is close, then it is threaded With a barrel nut you can set the head space. but the starting thread can be any space so after the barrel is put on the mark it. you must set the head space and forget the number timing . Larry
 
Mill the thickness of the recoil lug to where you need. If you have the thin factory lug, order a thicker aftermarket lug to start with.

Yeah, I had a brain fart and posted before thinking this out. The above is fubar.
 
232 said:
Mill the thickness of the recoil lug to where you need. If you have the thin factory lug, order a thicker aftermarket lug to start with.

I believe this would simply change the indexing on the nut, not the barrel.
 
The lug or the nut on a savage has nothing to do with head space. Head space is adjusted by turning the Barrel in or out to desired head space then tighten the nut on the on the lug. The head space is done when the chamber is made . .028 from the back of the barrel to the back of the chamber gauge. That never changes, any thing forward of the action mean nothing Indexting of the mark on the barrel must be done with chambering . Larry
 
savagedasher said:
The lug or the nut on a savage has nothing to do with head space. Head space is adjusted by turning the Barrel in or out to desired head space then tighten the nut on the on the lug. The head space is done when the chamber is made . .028 from the back of the barrel to the back of the chamber gauge. That never changes, any thing forward of the action mean nothing Indexting of the mark on the barrel must be done with cambering . Larry
Also remember most head space has .005 to play with that amounts to 30 plus degrees to ply with
 
I stand corrected , facing the lug will do nothing but time your nut . Never thought I say Time you nut On a forum !
Coffee helps the brain , I must need a lot.
 
Ggmac- thanks for the correction. I don't have a Savage, but have been looking at You-tube vids on setting H/S with a barrel nut, and I was thinking Eric was correct....i.e. you simply cannot change the recoil lug thickness.
One thing that concerns me is using the H/S gauge to essentially "crush-fit" the gauge in between the bolt face and the barrel......after the narrator explains that the H/S gauge is a "precision" tool that must be handled with care, he cranks on the barrel nut wrench with a cheater bar ??? Where-as the H/S gauge is normally used to verify the machined dimensions are correct without exerting force on the gauge...other than closing (or attempting to close) the bolt. I would think setting H/S with a barrel nut results in a hit or miss if one is trying for zero to .001".
 
LHSmith said:
Ggmac- thanks for the correction. I don't have a Savage, but have been looking at You-tube vids on setting H/S with a barrel nut, and I was thinking Eric was correct....i.e. you simply cannot change the recoil lug thickness.
One thing that concerns me is using the H/S gauge to essentially "crush-fit" the gauge in between the bolt face and the barrel......after the narrator explains that the H/S gauge is a "precision" tool that must be handled with care, he cranks on the barrel nut wrench with a cheater bar ??? Where-as the H/S gauge is normally used to verify the machined dimensions are correct without exerting force on the gauge...other than closing (or attempting to close) the bolt. I would think setting H/S with a barrel nut results in a hit or miss if one is trying for zero to .001".
This mite help 7 degrees of barrel turn is about .001 in head space on a savage. when you put a cheater wrench on the nut your taking head space away. Your pulling the barrel forward. Remington is op set. With a Savage head space can be set as low as.0001 you have 7 degree of barrel turn plus the pulling factor .I have 4 dasher all chambered the same and the brass I can use in all 4 without have to change my dies. In fact we have 7 Dashers all done the same way. Our loaded round can be used in any one of the 7 . Larry
 
not being a gunsmith or claim to be one
it seems to me that you need to cut the front of the receiver to time your roll stamps

drybean
 
Erik Cortina said:
There you go again with your crazy claims Catfish!

As low as .0001"? How do you measure it?
You cant and why would you care . But it could be done. I can take my bump die and size my brass and it works fine in all three guns. and I can change the barrel to another action and do the same. That is .001 with a.0015 bump. Larry
 
drybean said:
not being a gunsmith or claim to be one
it seems to me that you need to cut the front of the receiver to time your roll stamps

drybean

Would have to also do the bolt face.
 
savagedasher said:
Erik Cortina said:
There you go again with your crazy claims Catfish!

As low as .0001"? How do you measure it?
You cant and why would you care . But it could be done. I can take my bump die and size my brass and it works fine in all three guns. and I can change the barrel to another action and do the same. That is .001 with a.0015 bump. Larry

I care because you make crazy comments like the previous one that new shooters might read and believe, then they are off to a wild goose hunt because something they read on the internet.

But it's typical of you. Making exaggerated claims about something you have never done.
 
Erik Cortina said:
There you go again with your crazy claims Catfish!

As low as .0001"? How do you measure it?
I never said I did .
I set mine with a piece of tape . When I get .003 tape thickness. My head space is where I want it. All three of my guns are set that way and the fired brass will interchange in all 3. That tells me all my head space is within the spring back of the brass on all three guns.. Larry
 
LHSmith said:
savagedasher said:
That tells me all my head space is within the spring back of the brass on all three guns.. Larry
Brass normally shrinks back from the chamber after firing around .001 that is not exact but close. If any of my 3 guns head space is not with in .001 the bolt won close on the case. all three of mine I can take any fired brass and chamber it in the other gun. Larry

Not sure what this means?
 

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